There is a 1999 XK8 for sale near me, really cheap, but it has the gearbox fault message and is reported as having delayed engagement, but is fine once it is running.
Fault arose after a 200 mile road trip, car has 108k miles on it.

When I first saw the ad, I was hoping it would be fluid/reflash issues similar to my 04 XJR, but having read up on the forum's threads, it is looking more like it is going to be A drum failure, as it will have the 5hp24 not the 6hp26 box.

Any suggestions as to how I might tell while inspecting the car? I will take my Mongoose and SDD, are there P codes that confirm one way or the other?

Anything else to lookout for, is Nikasil still going to be a problem now (8 years after most of the threads were written, and after the car has passed California smog testing)? I will check for new engine/timing gear changes, hood operation, etc?

 

I would just assume the transmission needs rebuilding and go from there. It could, of course, need fluid, but with that many miles it is not to be relied upon.

Nikasil blocks that have good compression now will outlast the liner blocks unless they are severely overheated.

 

Thanks for the reply.
Yeah, I will phone around for some costs for replacement/refurb, I think swapping it is more than I want to try on the floor of my garage.

From reading many threads on the topic, I might be enclined to summarise the faults like this :-
If it is just slow to engage, 3-5 secs before pulling away, it might be just that the valve body is worn and a new VB and fluid/filter, along with the improved valving might be all it needs.
If it is slow and does not engage until rpm hits 1500, then there is a thud, it might be the A (or B) drum that is failing. If it has not shrapnelled then fluid filter, VB, valve and new drum might be enough.
If there is no drive or symptoms much worse than not engaging until revved, it likely needs a major refurb or replacement.

Does that sound correct?

 

Check for fatal stuff first, like transmission/tensioners/codes but use the suspension and brakes as bargaining chips to lower the price.

Scored rotors, tire wear, new mismatched tires, low front end and crumbling foam at the upper shock mount are all telltale signs of a car needing a lot of work. A clunk in the front could be a missing $10 sway bar bushing, but a clunk in the rear is likely an upper shock mount, which even a cheap shop would charge at least $500 to fix.

Brakes + Suspension is $1200 if you do it all yourself ($2000-$3000 if you pay someone and make the buyer think you do) and add $150-$300 per balljoint to this if they have torn boots.

On some of these cars, the seller will think he owes you money to take it from them when you write down all of the issues.

 

I saw this car as I check the ads everyday. I thought when I read the ad that it is most likely A drum. I personally wouldn't offer more than $1500. And with that the paint and interior need to be in good condition. The exterior looks good in the photos but didn't give any photos of interior.
IF he doesn't take the offer give him your info and more than likely he will call you back. If he doesn't be patient because cars like thsee come up every couple of months. Check my signature and see the xk8's I have. The most I paid for one was $1000.
If you get the car PM me, it looks like you are not too far away. I can give you info on A drum, I have done 3 of them, if that is what it is. Plus I have 2 parts cars.
Good luck on the deal.