hi to all,

i'm looking at changing the water pump. there seemsto be a whining noise when the car is idleing. i'm putting this down to the water pump. i'm no expert but i can do most work myself. since this is the first time i'll be doing this work on an XK8, i would be grateful for any tips or suggestions. also, should i change the thermostat, drivebelt and idler/tensioner pulley (if they are fitted!) while i'm doing the water pump? also, if anyone knows of any links (with photo's) to doing this job then please let me know.

many thanks

tariq

***still with the elite, cos i got an XK8***

 

If memory serves me, Jaguar Monthly magazine had an article on the chain tensioners and waterpump not to long ago (1 to 6 months maybe?). It had pictures by the step. Also try jag-lovers.org, there may be something on there. BTW, in case you didn't know, there earlier waterpumps had some problems and they upgraded them in '02 or 3 I think. Make sure you install the later version.

Good luck!

 

Yes, if you are going to the water pump, be sure you get the updated one with metal impellers. Change the plastic thermostat housing to the metal one also. Replace the timing chain tensioners, especially the upper ones with the updated metal ones.

 

thanks to govatos and hlgeorge for their replies.

i've now got the water pump and was told it was the updated version, however, the impellers are still plastic. i have been told that the updated water pump still has the plastic impellers but mainly its the actual body that been updated. the body of the water pump now houses a 'core plug'. is this correct?

hlgeorge mentions that the upper tensioners should be replaced. i haveread somewherethat both the bottom and upper tensioners should be replaced at the same timesince if only the upper ones are replaced then this will put extra tension on the bottom ones, and if they are worn or need replacing, they could fail after the replacement of the upper ones. is this correct?

tariq

***still with the elite 'cos i got an XK8***

 

The upper tensioners are the worst ones that break. While you are going to this extent, I would replace everything that is under the front cover. The labor is the most costly and while you have it apart just update everthing.

 

hl, except you only pull the cam cover to do the uppers, not the front cover. And T, you have the newer pump, there have been several design changes, most notably was going from a black plastic impeller, to a white one of different material that doesnt come apart like the early style. When you replace the thermostat, pop off the brass check ball with pliers, Ive never had one I modifyed cause overheating again, of sucking flat cause the lower hose to work off the thermostat housing

 

thanks for your reply Brutal.

i was relieved to hear you say that i do indeed have the updated water pump, otherwise a trip back to the *********** was going to be on the cards!

also,as you being a tech, so therefore having more expertise then me, could you clarify whether its better to replace the bottom tensioners as well as the upper ones (please refer to my previous thread for more info on why)?

many thanks

tariq

***still with the elite 'cos i got an XK8***

 

Hey T, I know I don't like to stereotype all dealerships as cruel and decieving...and theiving as the '***********' remark can often be related to. I personally have a great dealer and service shop here in Ft Worth, and all those hard working service techs and mechanics don't control parts prices, and labor for good techs are just part of the ownership responsibilities. Hey, at least hourly they don't get paid more than I do. Gotta get most of those parts from overseas anyway. If I were a tech I may take some personal attack when a statement like that is made. Imagine someone referring to your company you work for as a ripoff artist or scammer. Nobody as an individual wants to be put in that same category. Just a helpful tip my friend.

We're very lucky to get actual mechanics and service techs to become permenant forum members...in fact, its true value cannot be accurately measured.

 

I NEVER HEARD THAT WIVES TALE OF ALL TENSIONERS, I WOULD ONLY DO UPPER, UNLESS YOURE GOING INTO THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE, THEN I WOULD DO IT ALL, CHAINS, LOWER TENSIONERS AND BLADES. IF ANYTHING THE YOU MUST DO LOWERS WITH UPPER OR EXTRA WEAR/STRESS WOULD RESULT WOULD BE FROM A LESS THAN CREDIBLE SERVICE ADVISOR. BUT I ALSO THINK THATS IT CAN BE LUMPED INTO OPINION AS WELL. I DONT BELIEVE IN REPLACING ROTORS WITH PADS, BUT SOME TECHS WONT DO IT ANY OTHER WAY. AS A GENERAL IDEA FOR BRAKES I FOLLOW THIS RULE AS BEING PRETTY CLOSE TO REALLITY
30K..FRONT PADS
60K FRONT PADS AND ROTORA, AND REAR PADS
90K FRONT PADS AGAIN
120K FRONT AND REAR PADS AND ROTORS
DRIVING AND BRAKING HABITS THROW THIS OUTTA WACK SOME BUT FOR THE MOST PART IT GIVES PEOPLE AN IDEA OF WHAT IS ARESONABLE EXPECTATION

 

firstly, i would like to apologise if i caused any offence (h20boy) to anybody,the phrasewas actually meant in good humour. i am myself a DIY enthusiast and by no means an expert, but since i bought the XK8 and discovered many forums, i have stuck to this one for nearly a year now. i have indeed found the experts here to be very helpful and knowledgable, and indeed in the past when i didhave some problemswith the car, the experts help and diagnosis enabled me to solve the problems myself. once again, many thanks guys [sm=icon_cheers.gif]

brutal, i see that you are saying that if you are replacing the tensioners as a preventative measure then you could replace as and when you are at that part of the engine. but what if the upper tensioners are known to be worn and therefore need replacing, could you assume that the bottom ones are worn and thus replace both the upper and lower ones, or is it the case that replacing the upper ones WILL put extra tension on the lower ones and thus cause them to fail?

thanks

T

ps, i wont go on too much about tensioners here since the thread was about the water pumps.

 

ON THE LOWER TENSIONERS, IVE YET TO EVER SEE THEM CAUSE ENGINE FALURE LIKE THE UPPERS, THEYRE UPDATED TO A METAL BODY ALSO, BUT I WOULDNT PERSONALLY GO INTO THE EXPENSE OF REPLACING THOSE AS A PREVENTATIVE UNLESS FOR SOME RESON YOUR GOING IN TO THE FRONT, AND IF SO THEN DO EVERYTHING, BUT THE ONLY REASON IVE EVER REPLACED LOWER AND NOT ALOT IS WORN/NOISY CHAINS, TENSIONERS AND OR GUIDES. THE POINT IM MAKING IS DEFINITLY DO THE UPPERS REGARDLESS. WHEN I HAD A 98 I BOUGHT, I DID THOSE AT 33K AND THEY WHERE CRACKED AT THAT TIME, SO ANYONE WHO HASENT HAD THEM UPDATED IS JUST GAMBLING. AND THAT WAS A WHOLE TOPIC RELATING TO THE WATER PUMP SINCE THEYRE INDIRECTLY CONNECTED BY METAL

 

thanks for the clarification brutal [sm=icon_cheers.gif]

should have the water pump done by this weekend. will post results for the benefit of other users of this forum.

tariq

***still with the elite 'cos i got an XK8***

 

Just a thought here. Seems like this thread veered off course from belt tensioners to timing tensioners. If the original problem is a whine, look into the belt tensioner and idler pulley. Timing tensioners will cause a "ticking" sound, not a "whining" sound. I don't think the waterpump would cause a whine either. I'll bet it's the idler or belt tensioner pulleys.

If I missed something here, just let me know. I realize I'm kind of butting in.

 

your welcome to 'butt-in' anytime ken, the more info i have, the better. yes the topic did veer of course for a bit, but as brutal says, the two items are related bacause their made ofand connected by metal

thenoise i refer to, maybe the best way to describe it i guess, is the very very early signs of bearings wearing out. i wasnt sure if these cars have 'idler' pulleys, so it was a case of either the water pump or tensioner/idler pulleys. anyways, not knowing whether the car has had the water pump replaced in the past, i've now purchased the water pump and will see if that cures the noise, if not, i'll be looking at the tensioner/idler pulley.

ken, (not sure if i can ask this) whereabouts are you based? do you break xk's? always handy to have contacts nearby

T

***still with the elite 'cos i got an XK8***

 

MRT, IF YOU GO BUY A MECHANICS STETHOSCOPE YOU CAN USUALLY PINPOINT NOT ONLY THE NOISE YOU HERE BUT ALOT MORE, AND THEYRE CHEAP

 

OK, JOB DONE AND NOW THE RESULTS........

1. removed the hose pipes to access the water pump.
2. removed the drive belt to free up the water pump pulley
3. spun the water pump and no noise [sm=smiley5.gif]
4. checked the idler pulley and found to be seized [sm=smiley20.gif]
5. idler pulley replaced
6. water pump also replaced as a preventative measure
7. drive belt back on
8. fill up coolant
9. start her up.........noise gone [sm=shades.gif]

ok, now i'm sure someone out there is going to tell me that a seized idler pulley does not make a 'whining noise' how else could i have described it

thanks to everyone for the input


***still with the elite 'cos i got an XK8...... and she's gorgeous***

 

YOU SHOULDVE DESCRIBED IT AS A SEIZED IDLER PULLEY TYPE NOISE

 

We are out of Houston, but ship pretty much anywhere.

Brutal, that was funny! True, but funny.

Mr T, that pulley may have felt "seized" in hand, but the belt can pull that bearing harder than you can easily. That's why they whine. They don't want to move and are going to let you know about it.

 

Mr T, glad to see that things worked out better than it could have been. I have bought from Motorcars LTD, even for my Rolls and have been completely satisfied. Just don't forget those upper tensioners. It is not a matter of if they will break, but when they will break. I am a little **** retentive when it comes to my car and tend to over replace parts to keep it in good order. Just me and my obsessive compulsive disorder I guess!!
[sm=laughat.gif]

 

I just had a thermostat go bad, I think. Got the restricted performance and indication of overheating, but no steam, leaks or anti freeze smell. Anyway figure it is a bad thermo. How tough is it to just remove the housing, pop out the thermo and then remove the check ball, as you suggest? I've done a lot of thermos in other cas before but this one seems a bit different. I will eventually go to the trouble of replacing the housing too if this is absolutely required, but for the immediate term I'm jus looking for a band aid solution and trying to get an idea of the labor involved.