I figure to go by the book, as for as the 5w30 and the amount of oil to put in. Oil change was last done by the dealer, but can't confirm if synthetic was used or not. Can it be determined when I drain the old oil? I plan on using standard oil. Does it matter if synthetic oil was used last time of change? I assume my oil dip stick is correct when it says it's full. Would you recommend adding oil to new filter, before installing it? How much? Also, is there a gasket for the oil pan screw that needs to be replaced? It's been only 3,500 miles since that last oil change, but I'm anxious to send in an analysis of the oil. Thanks for any replies and/or any other thoughts.......Happy New Year!!!!!!! mick

 

It is not a problem to switch back and forth between synthetic and regular oil. Many years ago (like back in the 1970's) it was a problem, but it isn't any longer, so don't worry about using regular oil.

You don't need to pre-fill the oil filter. Just screw it on, refill the oil to the top of the line, and then run the engine for a minute or two. Let everything settle and then recheck the level. Top it up if necessary. The two lines on the dipstick represent one quart (or maybe it's a liter... same difference), so if you're at the bottom line, one quart should fill it to the top line.

There's a copper washer that goes around the drain bolt on the oil pan. The copper is very soft and it gets crushed between the bolt and the pan, forming a good seal. You're supposed to replace the washer when you do an oil change, but in my entire life I've never replaced a single one, and I've never had a leak from the drain plug.

Now that I think about it, one of my cars uses a rubber O-ring on the drain plug bolt. It might be the Jag, I don't remember. Either way, it's not necessary to replace it unless the O-ring or the copper washer are damaged.

 

Another thing... I don't want to start up the synthetic/non-synthetic debate, but Walmart regularly has Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1 on sale for about $22 for a 5 quart jug. The same size jug of Pennzoil non-synthetic is $19, so to me it's worth an extra few dollars for the synthetic. Plus I go 10,000 miles between oil changes like the manual says, so I want oil that I'm sure is going to last 10K miles. But that's just my preference. It's your car, so if you want to change your oil every 3500 miles, that that's your choice.

 

I know when the dealer use to do mine they always told me it was a synthetic blend. I just replaced my oil fill cap and the new one actually says "Jaguar recommends Castrol 5W-30". I believe they used the Castrol GTX. I currently use Royal Purple full synthetic and the car seems to like it alot but it's pretty expensive. Hope that helps

 

So I was thinking Maybe this will help with a better understanding on why we change oil in the first place,,, Maybe some did not know the reasoning behind it,,,

As internal combustion engines for passenger vehicles have been forced to become more fuel efficient,,, less polluting, smaller, and longer lasting, their lubrication needs have changed dramatically... These changes in the engines have required the development of multi-weight detergent motor oils that are suitable for the tighter clearances, higher heat, and higher RPM of these engines... These oils have additives to reduce wear (especially at start-up),,, maintain viscosity, and to suspend the soot and contaminants (by-products of combustion) that they wash off the interior engine parts... A side benefit of these oil's ability to maintain viscosity and suspend soot is that the oil change intervals have become longer on most vehicles...

Sludge
The number one reason for oil changes is to prevent the formation of sludge. It's important to understand how sludge forms and how sludge formation is prevented...

How Sludge is Prevented
Additive in the detergent oils 'wash' any contaminant particles off of internal engine parts and hold these particles in suspension until the oil is changed... It's important to understand that these particles are too small to cause engine wear, but they do turn the oil a darker color. The key thing is to change the oil before the oil becomes too saturated with contaminants to hold any more,,, but color is not an indication of this condition...

How Sludge Forms
As explained above, modern detergent oils suspend contaminants so they do not settle on engine parts and form sludge... When the oil becomes saturated with contaminant particles new particles settle out of the oil onto the internal engine parts and form sludge... This is why it is so critical to perform oil changes before this level of contamination is reached.

The only way to know if you're oil needs changing is to have an oil analysis done. Absent this, play it safe and follow the service intervals specified in the owners manual...They must know how many Particulates the engine leaves behind every so many miles RIGHT,,, Remember that the contaminants come from the combustion process of the gasoline and and the air... Synthetic oil will not prevent these contaminants... Synthetics may be marginally better at suspending more contaminant particles, but not enough to prolong oil changes by much...

Never attempt to clean the inside of your engine with one of those engine flush procedures that many shops try to sell... If you've been diligent about oil changes there will be no sludge... If there is a lot of sludge then the last thing you want to do is to dislodge it all at once.

So if your car has few miles and you maintain it maybe you can stretch the miles between changes,,,

If you bought it with more miles maybe you want to change it more often to slowly clean the engine of any possible sludge/deposits...

 

I use Castrol Syntec in my Jags every 5000 miles. I do put enough oil in the filter to saturate the element.

 

I'm planning on doing my own oil changes. I know I need to grease the half whales. Is there anything else I should do?

 

If you're going by the book- why are you changing the oil with only 3500 miles on it? Factory interval is 10K miles.

 

There are two fittings on each side of the rear half shafts - 4 in total. On each side the Zerk fittings are 180 degrees from each other tucked down in the yoke.

I back my car up on a ramp for access and can only get to one fitting on each side at a time - its opposite mate is hidden from reach. I used to take the car off the ramp and try to get back on the ramp with the un-lubricated fitting accessible - but, at best, I have a 50/50 chance.

I attend to them every time I change oil and figure that over time it all evens out...

 

Curious as to how you know your car likes Royal Purple better, not trying to be an a$$, but I do not see how you can make that statement, unless you are analyzing data from your car the whole time between oil changes and have a before and after picture snapshot of data from before RP and after.

 

I agree, know I do not have too, but it makes me feel better.

 

Mikey supplied us with a link to a report I talked about in a similar thread today that came out in Consumer Reports some years ago.

1. They suggest 7,500 mile intervals for oil changes of any brand that has a Star symbol on the can indicating that it meets the highest standards.

"On the basis of our test results, we think that the commonly recommended 3,000-mile oil-change interval is conservative. For "normal" service, 7,500-mile intervals (or the recommendation in your owner's manual) should be fine. Change the oil at least that often to protect your engine and maintain your warranty."

"The starburst symbol is a circle with a serrated edge about an inch across with text which reads "AMERICAN PETROLEUM INSTITUTE CERTIFIED FOR GASOLINE ENGINES."

2. They said shop by price if it has the star buy the cheapest you can find.

"None of the tested oils proved better than the others in our tests. There may be small differences that our tests didn't reveal, but unless you typically drive under more severe conditions than a New York cab does, you won't go wrong if you shop strictly by price or availability. Buy the viscosity grade recommended in your owner's manual, and look for the starburst emblem. Even the expensive synthetics (typically, $3 or $4 a quart) worked no better than conventional motor oils in our taxi tests, but they're worth considering for extreme driving conditions high ambient temperatures and high engine load or very cold temperatures. "

Link to the original report below:

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I am with Mikey if the handbook/warranty says 10K between changes is OK I would be fine with that since I often go to 12,000 with no trouble.

It won't hurt to change more often but if it doesn't help why bother?

Thanks again Mikey...I am thinking you are using Synthetic 5-30w in Montreal, c'est vrai?

cheers,

jj

 

Nope, regular dino for me, 5W30 as per owners manual. Synthetics only make sense if the extended drain interval is taken advantage of. I run out of time before I get anywhere near the 16,000KM change interval so it would be wasted money.

 

Ah read the article again where it says that synthetic is better when it is very cold and very hot....

Or doesn't it get cold in Montreal any more since global warming made us all toasty?

No more ice skating on the St Lawrence in the winter?

cheers,

jj

 

Hi. Do you get better MPG using synthetic? If you do it might be worth the extra expense plus the quicker lubrication from cold starts makes me lean towards the synthetic.
Al

 

Hey Al;

Some folks do claim better MPG with synthetic oil but I have never seen a controlled study of that anywhere.

Anyone else have hard data on that question?

Hey Al are you up for a rally/drive in the Bordeau area this summer SteveinFrance and I are trying to organize?

cheers,

jj

 

To truly 'be better' I'd have to personally realize some tangible benefit with reduced operating cost, increased reliability/durability or maybe easier starting. I've never owned a vehicle that has worn out an engine due to lubrication issues- so that leaves out durability and reliability concerns. The oil is more expensive so that kills operating cost benefits. The cars all start first turn of the key even in -30*C weather so faster starting is also a 'non-starter'.

The intangibles related to 'peace of mind' or 'it makes me feel better' or 'the car runs better' go against all the thinking I adopted in the 30+ years I spent working for a major gas turbine OEM.

Jus' sayin'.

 

Hi JJ would be great keep me posted.

Happy New YEAR

Al

 

Mikey;

I am with you....sounds like you were an engineer.....if you're happy then I am happy.

Al;

You betcha mate....look forward to getting you down here with the girls.

cheers,

jj

 

Happy all round then!