Before I put our baby to bed for the winter, I plan to prep it just like I do our MGB. Inflate the tires to 40-50 psi and turn OFF the already installed custom Jaguar shutoff switch. Before I do the latter and pull the dust cover over it, what precuations should I take with respect to loss of battery power?

I have run about 200 km since last oil change.

Thanks,
Blue

 

Be aware that when these XK8s sit untouched for long periods of time, the fuel pumps sometimes decide to quit on you. These cars seem to stay healthier if they are driven year-round....

 

I have stored some cars for as long as 18 months without any major precautions other than disconnecting battery and covering it up. On the other hand, the list of precautions can be endless if you are OCD. Protection from rodents, final coat of wax, moth ***** in the trunk, ad infinitum...

IMO, for storage of less than six months, the value of a fuel stabilizer is marginal. Gas usually lasts up to a year in the tank w/o stabilizers. Keep the tank full to avoid condensation. I think is good to get the car up off the tires to avoid flat spotting, but not necessary. The old caveat of not letting the suspension 'hang' is old school myth.

The worst thing most people do with their stored vehicle is to start the car regularly once a month, or so. The problem stems from the fact they do not run it long enough to bring everything up to full operating temperatures which usually takes 20-30 minutes. If the engine crankcase and exhaust doesn't get hot enough, it cannot burn off the steam and condensation which then remains as water in the crankcase oil and pools in the low spots of the exhaust system. This is bad news. Unless somebody is going to really workout the car, like drive it out on the highway for a half hour, I think the car is better off just sitting undisturbed.

 

With battery disconnected?

 

Yup! My car was running Perfect in the fall several years ago.

After not running it over the Winter (about 4 months), Both Fuel Pumps Failed and had to be replaced.

Now, during Winter Storage, every 2 weeks I remove the Fuel Pump Relay(s) and jumper the power to the Pumps for a few Seconds to "Exercise" them.

 

Why disconnect the battery? Why not pick up a battery tender, such as: DieHard Battery Charger/Maintainer: Start Every Time With Sears and leave it connected?

For what little a bottle of Sta-Bil costs, its cheap insurance against poor fuel sitting all winter.

I don't see much use in hanging the suspension and tires, in fact prolonged, extended twist on torsilastic bushings (control arms) can cause them to tear apart.

If you choose to use mothballs, place them in a glass jar so they won't damage anything. I'd avoid plastic containers, there could be a seriously unfavorable chemical reaction. One in the trunk, one or two in the cabin and one or two underhood should help if rodents are an issue in your location. Upholstery damage from them is bad enough but when they nest they tend to chew on the wiring and then you're really in for a treat! Many times their nests are in tight, hidden little cubbyholes and repairs are nasty exercises in diagnosis and locating. It seems every spring I'll receive several calls from friends that have found damage to their summer toys.

Personally, I don't care for car covers on a vehicle stored in a garage. Many times you'll pull it off only to find issues that have been hidden through the months of storage. I'd rather know now that someone has dropped a hammer on the hood than finding out in April.

 

I think we both agree that it is not necessary to go through a space launch checklist to put the car up for a few months. Personally I am comfortable changing the oil, filling up, disconnecting the battery, trickle charge, covering it and walking away.

Like you suggest, I also run a trickle charger. I usually leave the battery in place, but disconnect both terminals. (and clean them) Some cars have current running through electrical circuits, even when the key is Off. So I got in the habit of disconnecting the battery... not saying that's the best alternative... just a habit.

For a couple of months of storage Sta-bil is probably not necessary. But if it makes the owner feel better; it is only a few bucks and no harm done.

Regarding hanging the suspension. I am not aware of any "torsilastic" bushings in the car. I've had the whole front suspension, and parts of the rear apart. Most of the rubber I saw was round and not under any kind of elastic stress when loaded or unloaded. I only suggest getting the tires off the ground to avoid flat spotting which can be a real issue on some tires.

 

Could you ascertain the cause of the FP failure? I've never heard of fuel pumps going bad from just sitting. Now I don't doubt your experience, and if both pumps failed, it would probably make me a believer also.

 

Here's the Jaguar New Vehicle Storage Manual detailing recommendations and procedures for long term storage.

Vehicle Storage Manual.pdf

A little OTT for an individual used vehicle but interesting to note that disconnecting the battery is not recommended. Total lack of power for extended periods can create more issues than it solves.

My own Jaguars have always been garaged for up to three months during the Summer hooked up to a battery tender. Never had any of the issues often reported on the forum by those who remove batteries.

Graham

 

Mine was stored in FL from May-Oct in an underground garage under cover. No access to AC power, so a trickle charger with the battery in wasn't an option. Disconnected battery and covered car with (advertised) breathable cover. Only problems I had with the car when I came back was mildew on the interior, and the no-start nikasil problem. Next year I will pull the fuse for the fuel pump and crank the engine until the oil pressure comes up, then reinstall the fuse and try to start it. I hope it works, because pulling the plugs is a pain. Battery was fine, engine management systems seem fine after the disconnect. Seeing the age of your car, I would take the time to crank yours over w/out fuel to build up some oil pressure first and try to get the compression up. By the way, I also put in a can of Restore this year and will when I change the oil before storage. (per Brutal) Hopefully this will help avoid the no-start.

 

Oil pressure has no effect on compression.

 

I was hoping that splashing oil on the cylinders and having the rings push it around would re-lube the cylinders and help restore compression. Am I wrong?

 

Ahh - but I will leave the country for 5 months and the poor baby will be by its lonesome

I think most cars like to be driven

Blue

 

Also to stick my neck out....have most postings about the dead fuel pump been from supercharged engines? Maybe White can devise a solution that fires up the pump for 30 sec. daily/weekly/ whatever. Small board w/timer function. It would require the battery being hooked up, however.

 

Thanks for all of the tips.

Seems like what I have done in the past is basically on track.

Have not had a rodent problem in the past in my garage but this afternoon I did see a field mouse tail running along one wall. I liberally sprinkled treated mouse seed allong the door area and if all goes well the stuff should be gone tomorrow - warfarin works wonders.

I will use the previously installed Jaguar battery disconnect switch and install a trickle charger. Fresh gas and Sta-bil after a half hour run should work.

I hate to leave her behind as I head to the warm climate but I do not have the engine capacity in my motorhome to tow it in a trailer.

Thanks again

Blue

 

I think the idea is good, you will circulate the oil with no fuel to wash the bores.

 

Nikasil has a problem with cylinder washing and in most situations the problem can be identified as it was a short trip or I just moved it on to the driveway or into the garage. Most of the time cylinder washing can be avoided by bringing the car up to operating temperatures and / or adding Restore. Cylinder washing is when the fuel in the cylinders is left un-used and it washes the cylinders of the oil that is necessary to create compression in order for it to start and run. If you look back on many of the no start posts you will see that Nikasil no starts were due to the short engine run time. I feel that the car can be stored and restarted with little problems if you follow the rule and that is the long engine run time and adding Restore is not a bad idea. Now the question was asked about pulling the fuel pump fuses and letting it crank a few times then try to start the car why do that when you can hold the accelerator to the floor and that does the same thing. It shuts off the fuel and you can let up on the accelerator about half way and you will have fuel. I personally feel if the car is stored properly cylinder washing would not be an issue.

 

I saw the comment about mildew in a car stored for the summer by mike66. A little trick I learned from boating is to leave a couple bars of Dial or similar soap unwrapped. It smells better than mothballs, and inhibits mildew and mold.
RJ____________
95 XJ6 120K mi
97 XK8 86K mi

 

My car was also stored from May to October, battery physically off and connected to a trickle charger.When I returned I had the Nikasil no compression/start problem although I had made sure when it was left that it had been run for at least ten miles,therefore the engine was definitely hot before storage.Does the Nikasil have properties that increase its tendency to drain oil off its surface? Less friction than steel? Or do the steel lined cars ever suffer this problem?

 

Sorry to see you had the same problem. This probably qualifies as hijacking the thread, although generally a storage related problem. Guess we'll have to keep trying different things until we hit the answer to the Nikasil lottery. I leave all my spark plug cover bolts finger tight so they're easy to remove......