Bolts and Loctite...or Permatex...
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Aarhus, Denmark
Bolts and Loctite...or Permatex...
Well, I am still in the process of changing chains, tensioners, waterpump and thermostat...have been waiting for parts;-)... and tonight I had to redo the cams on my xk8...chain was too slack on drive side...question is: do you replace securing bolts on camshafts and do you use Loctite/Permatex to lock down bolts...I just loosened my bolts with Loctite....and they were....tight;-)...?
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Joined: Jan 2018
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From: on the road in NE Oklahoma
Locktite blue gel should be all you need, if that.
I've built many 100's of engines, more than a handful of them were e type 3.8 and 4.2's. Never had a properly torqued bolt come loose, ever. And these more modern engines do not have 1% of the vibration problem that the more vintage engines had to deal with.
1) The best way to assemble an engine is to get a thread chasing tap set (not regular taps). Sears has them, and use them to make sure the threads are clean
2) and there is zero oil or water living in the blind holes.
3) threaded holes should be blown out with compressed air and reexamined. USE EYE PROTECTION
4) Most torque specs are stated "with clean and dry threads".
5) If the threads are to be oiled, it will say so in the FACTORY manual, otherwise, DRY.
following these steps is one of the things making the difference between a professional rebuild and an amateur one.
Z
I've built many 100's of engines, more than a handful of them were e type 3.8 and 4.2's. Never had a properly torqued bolt come loose, ever. And these more modern engines do not have 1% of the vibration problem that the more vintage engines had to deal with.
1) The best way to assemble an engine is to get a thread chasing tap set (not regular taps). Sears has them, and use them to make sure the threads are clean
2) and there is zero oil or water living in the blind holes.
3) threaded holes should be blown out with compressed air and reexamined. USE EYE PROTECTION
4) Most torque specs are stated "with clean and dry threads".
5) If the threads are to be oiled, it will say so in the FACTORY manual, otherwise, DRY.
following these steps is one of the things making the difference between a professional rebuild and an amateur one.
Z
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 211
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From: Aarhus, Denmark
Thanks Zray
Would you reuse or replace? I’ve read that 155 NM should be right for theese bolts, but I have also seen less. Can you remember how much you put on them?
All the best
Frank
Would you reuse or replace? I’ve read that 155 NM should be right for theese bolts, but I have also seen less. Can you remember how much you put on them?
All the best
Frank
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