Car in bodyshop, got called to a problem they have. They had the boot/trunk open to try and adjust alignment, did not adjust anything but when they closed the boot/trunk it will not now open. Cant use the manual key method as the new rear bumper covers the hole between the XK. the car locks and unlocks O.K. with the fob, only difference now is that when I lock the car it gives a beep but no flash of the indicators, where as before when I locked the car I got no beep but the indicators flashed. Did a search and came up with a thread that said there is a red lever next to the lock mechanism that if moved locks the boot/trunk permanantly, hope they did not move this. Anyone got any idea how to unlock the boot/trunk without ripping the rear end apart?

 

I do not understand...is this a modified bumper cover? If so, can't they remove the bumper cover?

 

How is the hole between the x and k covered?

 

The new rear bumper is the Granley design rear end which wraps around the rear and is bonded into place covering the hole for manually locking/unlocking the boot/trunk. The new bumper sits further away from the body of the car so even if a hole was drilled the shaft of the key would not even reach into the lock. The fact that using the fob has a different beep/flash sequence to before makes me wonder if some sort of valet inhibit has been activated or if the battery voltage is low there is not enough power to release the solioid holding the lid down.

 

Starting the car with a Black Non-Valet Key should clear the Valet Status. Then (with the engine running if possible) press the Trunk Open Button on the Dash.

Also: according to the Owner's Manual, the Trunk Button on the Key Fob should Release the Trunk even if the Valet Status is in effect.

 

I'm probably not the only one interested to see how or why anyone would want to cover up the lock:



This is from the Grantley website.

Graham

 

Didn't have much time to really look at it today so going back to the bodyshop in the moring, will try starting the car and see if that makes any difference. Don't want to remove the rear bumper if poss but I have a feeling that is what we will end up doing.

 

You could make a hole, (probably need the bumper off to get the right location) and make a long "emergency key" for the future.

 

Graham that is the bumper I have fitted, not easy to see but it does sit away from the body of the car where the key hole is, and the shaft of the key would not be long enough to reach into the lock.

 

If you have two black Master Keys, you could cut the shaft off one and braze it to a rod or into a suitable tube to give sufficient length to reach the lock.

Only a Master key will open the boot but it doesn't need the transponder chip in the head to do this.

Graham

 

That would be remarkably like my "emergency key"

 

Perhaps - although this is the regular 'emergency' key.

 

I'm sure we can come up with some kind of mechanical solution or even take the rear end off but was hoping it would be a more simple solution something around the fob/valet/locking sequence or too low a voltage to release the solinoid. As I say I will try starting the car in the morning and see what happens. just looked at the time and it is the morning already, on a night shift at work at moment so can keep anwering through the night in between going out on site, the joys of shift work LOL.

 

If the problem is too low a voltage, you can place a charger (+) lead on the bolt in the corner of the fuesbox under the hood, and use a chassis bolt for ground.

DO NOT use this to jump start the car however. This wiring cannot handle starting current.

 

It could be battery voltage, it is possible to connect to the posts in the engine compartment to open the trunk NOT start the car.

Original pic from Paul Plavik I believe.

 

If the vehicle has been sitting with the boot open whilst they've been working on it, the battery will be well down.

If they've disconnected the battery before playing with the electrics, you wont be doing anything with the fob.

Graham

 

Almost no one uses the key lock. I tried mine several years ago to make sure that the keys/lock worked and have not since. Guess I should go lube the lock since disuse seems to be the greatest failure problem.

Make sure the battery is fully charged, try and report the dash trunk release button, try and report the key fob trunk release button. Reprogram the fob is all else fails.

 

Car has been in the corner of workshop for 3 weeks, maybe Graham you are right with the doors open and the boot/trunk open and closed then open again the battery may be too low to release the solinoid. The solinoid goes with a loud clunk when released so may need the battery to have a good voltage. I will take my battery pack with me just in case the car wont start, at least I will be able to connect to the pin under the bonnet/hood and put 12 volts to the car that may release the boot/trunk.The one thing that confuses me is the fob locking and unlocking the doors O.K. but as I said before the indicators flashed but no beep, now there is a beep but the indicators dont flash. Not sure what the correct sequance should be when locking unlocking using the fob.

 

The lock behavior can be very weird and unpredictable when the battery is low on this car.

 

A beep with no flashing indicators on the UK spec security system is usually because either a door, the bonnet or the boot is not properly closed and the alarm system cannot arm.

Graham