I believe you will also need (4) of the caliper bolts as well as a tap for the uprights.

Can you share where you bought the brake lines from? Directly from England? I believe some had reported that somehow the Goodridge lines for the rear were not correct and had to reach out to Goodridge for the proper fittings. You might want to take the wheels off and do a dry-run of sort to double check before getting too deep into the swap.

 

I could be wrong but I was under the impression that since my calipers came from a 2002 XKR-100 (or could have come from a 2001 Silverstone), and since my car is a 2002, I would not need to tap the uprights and that it would be a direct bolt on. I believe I would need to tap had the calipers come from a 2003 or later car. As for the brake lines, they came from the UK from Paragon (XKRacer). Yes, I will make sure that I have the correct equipment before getting too deep into it as I have a perfectly fine running and driving car presently.


Rob

 

My understanding is that the brakes were upgraded in '99 for the introduction of the XKR. Both the XK8 and the XKR had the same single piston calipers/rotors. Later, the Brembo kit was made available for the XKR, with different hubs.

Bottom line: The Brembo caliper "ears" are smooth, so the hubs have to be tapped. The ATE single-piston calipers are threaded, so the hubs are smooth.

Definitely worth checking on the actual car...

 

The early style Brembos with the separate bracket ( 2002 XKR/XJR-100 /2001 Silverstone ) do not require tapping of the uprights. The threads are in the brackets.

 

 

No bracket missing. Just need to tap the holes on the knuckle and bolt them up. Looks good.

 

Thank you so much for the replies as after reading several threads on Brembo conversions I was still confused. I was thinking that ANY pre-2003 caliper would bolt up without tapping but apparently that's only for the ones with the separate brackets which I didn't even know existed. Tapping the uprights is not a problem.

With regards to cutting the back plate, would a regular jigsaw with a metal blade suffice (already have), or would a cutting wheel be better (would need to get).


Rob

 

If you re-rear this very thread (and squint pretty hard at the tiny pictures), you can see the black bracket for the early calipers. There are also a couple of pictures that show a jig-saw to handle the trimming of these dust shields.

Just to throw another variable: have you thought about re-painting these calipers now that they are off the car? There are (cheap) caliper paint kits out there, and eBay has a number of seemingly appropriate decals ("Brembo", "Jaguar", "XKR").

Bolts are Part# HXD6064EA

 

I had though about possibly repainting them but overall they are in great shape and I actually prefer the toned down look of these as opposed to red or any other color.

I have the caliper bolts that came from the XKR-100 and I believe they would be the correct ones?



Rob

 

Another question I thought of.....do the wheel studs need to be changed in order to use 20" BBS wheels or will the BBS lug nuts work with the existing studs? I have a set of Sepang's ready to go once the Brembo conversion is complete and wanted to make sure everything is secure.

Thanks,

Rob

 

Hi,

I was bringing back a thread to ask a question specifically about tapping the front uprights. I have never tapped a hole before, but since the Brembo caliper will be mounted behind the upright and therefore the bolts will be secured from behind the caliper, does that mean I need to tap the hole clockwise or counterclockwise....or does it matter? I'm planning to do this project this week and hopefully it will go smooth.


Thanks,


Rob

 

It is a normal right hand thread M14 X 1.5 pitch which is classed as metric fine

 

Looking at the very first post in this thread, it looks like the tapping is from the front, which means the ears of the caliper go in front of that, and that the screw goes straight in through the caliper ears and into the tapped uprights. I would definitely do a dry run of this with the rotor in place to make sure this all lines up properly...

PS: As confirmed by the dry-run below, the caliper is actually behind the hub ears, therefore the bolt has to be threaded from the back.

 

Thanks for the replies. I did a dry test fit and unlike the standard caliper, the Brembo unit sits BEHIND the hub. So what we're looking at in that photo is the upright, then the caliper behind it, and the threaded end of the bolt looking towards us. It's obvious which direction the OP is tapping from so my ultimate question is does the bit need to spin clockwise or counterclockwise (or maybe it doesn't matter?). Also, I already have the correct bit, so ready to go there. I did send a PM to the OP asking him that question. Like I said, it may not matter, but I don't want to mess anything up.


Rob

 

The bit only cuts spinning forward/clockwise,

 

Ah ok, so that's the answer then. Thanks so much....I appreciate all the good help here.



Rob

 

A right hand (normal everyday clockwise) thread is still a right hand thread regardless of which end it is viewed from.
You can just as easily cut the thread with tap started from outside of upright but then insert bolts from inside, thread is still the same.

 

I have the car jacked up and plan to start this conversion tomorrow. I have the M14x1.25 bit. Is any pre drilling of the hole required or just go ahead and tap?

 

No pre drilling needed. Use cutting oil to keep the hole lubricated. Go slowly and then back it out to remove the cut metal.

 

Good Morning Guys,


I had never tapped a hole before and so I did one of the upright holes over the weekend to see how it would go. The tapping of the hole went great but the caliper bolt will only thread in about 1/3 of the way before it gets so tight that I can't go any further (I'm afraid I'm going to break it). The tap thread still threads through the hole perfectly. I used a 14 x 1.25 tap and the caliper bolts that I have came from the 2002 XKR-100, the same car that the calipers came from. I lost one of the bolts and therefore ordered another one, which is part number HXD6064EA, which I understand is correct. I assume the XKR 100 bolts are the same?

I was just wondering if maybe I did something wrong, or I'm missing something, or just try to keep going with advancing the bolt through.

Thanks for any suggestions.


Rob