I now have a "backup" pump and have poked inside the motor side to see what's there. Might be a simple cause of your trouble there. Are you up for opening your motor to take a look?

 

Nope, I am referring to the 5 amp Fuse #1 in the luggage compartment next to the battery ("Convertible: Reversing lamps; rear quarter windows raise/lower relays"). If you read through my problem above, the issue came down to an electrical signal or switch contact error. With this fuse blown, the signal sequence stops at the point calling for the quarter windows to raise and lower.


I don't know much about this sort of stuff, but I'd guess that if your 40 amp is blowing, the problem is specifically located in your pump and nowhere else.

 

Dennis - Absolutely! What have I got to lose? Please tell me your suspicions. I must admit I have not spent a lot of time tackling this as my time has been limited and the weather is starting to get a little chilly, but would like to take advantage of whatever nice days are left.

 

Stamford,

I think two quick measurements will tell us whether we should look inside the motor. With the black/white power connector opened up ...

- Resistance of each of the two pins in that connector to the pump body, or an elbow, anything metallic there. Both should be open circuit.

- Resistance between the two pins. Should be very low, a fraction of 1 ohm (about 0.5 ohm if I remember right), but NOT zero. Need a good low-scale digital ohmmeter to see this.

Maybe to avoid a hijack of b6283's discussion, we should open a new thread from here ??

 

Thanks, Dennis. I'll check them out later ad get back to you. Agree we should start a new thread.

 

New thread at:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...0/#post1078235

 

how do you do a hard reset

 

1) Disconnect the battery (neg/ground, then pos).
2) Take the two cables and touch them together for 10 seconds (with nothing touching the battery). Touching the cables together discharges the system.
3) Reconnect the battery (pos, then neg/ground)

 

Hey b6283, did you ever get this fixed? I know you said that the 5amp fuse was blown and you replaced it - have you had any problems since?


I ask, as I am having a similar issue and don't want to just start throwing parts at the problem. I did switch to manual latch mode since the upper lines blew maybe 6 months ago...


Last night I went to put the top down and it just wouldn't move... I could hear the pump run but after 5 seconds or so the pump would stop. Then after two or three tries (after closing the latch and pushing the button "up" and closing the rear windows each time) the rear windows wouldn't go up anymore...


I opened the manual latch again and then pushed up slightly on the top on both sides while pushing the top down button (I did have help) and that was enough for the top to get going and open normally... NOW, when I start to put the top up it goes up about 8 inches or so and then stops and won't raise anymore... it SEEMS like I may have a weak pump, but wanted to see if anyone else had any ideas or thoughts on the matter.


The pump fluid level is just barely below the upper line when the top is down...


Your assistance is greatly appreciated!

 

Chris, my top is now working great.


The guys on this forum are much more knowledgeable than me, but based on my experience, I'd recommend you do the following:


-- Top off the fluid. It made a difference when I added to a level just a tiny bit above the top line.
-- If the rear quarter windows are stuck in the open position, open the top and then do a hard reset to your electrical system.
-- Check your trunk fuses. Since you can hear the pump, the 40 amp is working so maybe you've blown one of the 5 amp fuses.


Once I got the system to work, my second problem was that the 5 amp fuse kept blowing (see post #22 above). Since everything had tested out and my relays were fine, the process of elimination led me to clean the reverse light contact points and change out the bulbs. All fine now.


Let us know if this helps at all. -- Matthew

 

I would check the fluid first as suggested. When opening the roof remember that the roof system is dependent on the micro switches all being in the correct position and when the roof does not clear the center micro switches it will not move. The dead giveaway is when you push the top up and it begins to retract. When putting the top up manually because you have failed hoses your coordination must be on the mark. The roof must complete the close operation and satisfy the micro switches in the rams and the roof latched in order for the windows to go up. So my guess is that you did not let the roof complete the operation before you closed the latch manually.

 

Mine was just low on fluid luckily... although it was just below the full line, that was with the top down - once I manually raised the top the level was in the middle of the two lines. I then filled it up to the top line at that time and it works like a champ... when the top is down the level is maybe a 1/4" over the line but not close to being "too full". It works fine now, so I just need to see if I have a leak somewhere (or the fluid is just low since I had the "green shower" a few months ago). Thanks for your assistance

 

Been having the same problems again after 4-1/2 years. I'll keep playing with it over the next week, but I'm afraid the rams may have failed again. Has anyone else had Top Hydraulics provide rebuilt rams only to have them fail after a handful of years?