2001 XKR Convertible, 58,000 miles...
Is there an adjustment to the latch assembly in the header panel whereby the convertible top (hood) can be drawn down to fit tighter against the header panel?
I ask because when the car is in motion, top up, a constant "squeaking" sound comes from the top/header panel area where the two meet as if metal and rubber are rubbing against one another.
Work/ inspections related to the convertible top:
* Hydraulic pressure relief valve installed a year ago (not necessarily related to the squeaking but something associated with top operation and installed long before current squeaking sound)
* Top latch assembly inspected for tightness
* Finisher-front header inspected and tightened
* Guide pins tightened
* Hydraulic pump operation and fluid level inspected and full
* Lift cylinders are fully extended and top is in sync with quarter windows operation and all seems to be operating properly
By outward appearances, the top is properly aligned and tight against the header, no wind noise or water leak at the top/header area; however, when driving, I can reach out the driver's window and apply downward pressure to the top at the header and the squeaking sound lessens - the same is true when I apply upward pressure to the top from inside the vehicle - the squeaking noise lessens.
I'm stumped - any thoughts?

 

Two questions:

Is the problem the same on both sides of the car? If someone in the passenger seat does the same two tests your described ... same result?

Have you tried using something slippery on the alignment pins?

 

I don't have any experience with this, but, if it sounds like rubber squeaking against metal, I would try a little silicone or rubber lube on the seals. Just my two cents and actually worth considerably less.

Good Luck

 

There's nothing in JTIS about adjustment apart from an (as usual) cryptic comment in the 'Description and Operation' section covering Removal and Replacement about tightening the mounting bracket bolts after the top is latched - I wonder if that pre-tensions the top.

The only other suggestion I have is to install the Allen key and get the passenger to swing on it in a counter-clockwise direction to take out any play in the latch ram - if that fixes it at least you know the cause although not how to fix it.

 

This is longshot, but it may be worth verifiying that your car has a crossbrace in place under the engine and strut braces in the engine compartment. If either of those are missing, you could have excessive cowl shake.

If that is all fine try some graphite based dry lock lubricant on the exposed mechanism. This will lubricate without attracting dirt.

 

In all my work on the roof operation I do not recall any type of adjustment related to the latch locking mechanism. However, that is not to say it is nonexistent. I would check that the latch is locking properly and you can do that with the allen key. With the roof fully closed insert the allen key and see if it drives the latch a little further if it does I would look at the roof latch ram and see if it sticking. If this is not the problem I would look into the suggestion of the cowl shake or just a bad seal. Keep in mind that at times the problem is not what you think it is.

 

When I replaced the hydraulic hose I tighten one bolt first before installing all the bolts which cause a bind in the latch mechanism, loosen all the bolts and re tightened them and problem solved. (I removed and cleaned the latch and the lock pins 12 years of grim) Old body shop trick, clean the rubber molding and spray with 100% silicone and let it dry. This will cause the molding to swell and expand. Almost to its original state. For 5 bucks a can not a big lose, plus your molding and seals will be lubed. Jim

 

Thanks to those responding!
While I don't know which procedure was the successful one, I went back into everything and used a little of each of your suggestions and the problem is resolved.
I cleaned and used silicone on the rubber seals, a little graphite on the lock mechanisms, and retightened all the header panel screws.
Two items that may have contributed to the squeaking:
Each guide pin receptacle has a locking pin that secures the top after closing. Each needed cleaning for ease of retraction and locking.
Also, the top (hood) latch striker on the convertible top itself is rubber coated and it is received by the "fork" latch at the header panel. It appears, through use, that the fork has worn the rubber away where it pulls down on the striker, which would produce some extra "play". Presently, a small amount of electical tape around the worn area seems to be working.
Thanks

 

Use plastic dip to re-cover the "latch striker". The rubberized material is available at Ace or any hardware store. It is used also to cover tools etc.