It appears that the Previous Owner (PO) of my 2006 XK8 convertible must have used a pressure sprayer on the convertible top. The top has multiple lines across the top as if someone was "doodling" with a power washer. Those lines are actually raised/damaged fabric. I have found no way short of replacing the top to get rid of the lines. I have a qualified local (Dayton, Ohio) upholsterer prepared to replace the top for $2150. Is this my only alternative?

 

Welcome to the forum lluckyx4,

Sorry you've arrived with such an expensive issue.

Have you tried sourcing a good used top from a breaker? We get many posts on the forum about issues with the top mechanism but having to replace the fabric is unusual.

Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

Thank you for the quick reply. And, I apparently had forgotten to post my information in the New Member area even though I have been a frequent reader for many months, now. (See that post.) As for the breaker, I gave that little or no chance of finding one in this area. There seem to be very few Jaguars in the area, and when I bought mine, I traveled out of state to central Indiana to purchase it. So, with very few around, and my need for a dark blue top, I never considered a breaker. I will not buy one sight unseen, so that leaves me with my local upholsterer. Actually, I'm OK with his price, but if someone has a procedure to hide the unsightly lines in the top, I would certainly be agreeable to trying whatever costs me nothing but labor instead of spending for that new top.

 

Pressure spray the parts that don't match. Sorry.

 

I just could not bring myself to deliberately damage that top. However, in late fall, when I plan to replace the top anyway, I might just try that approach to see if I can disguise the damaged lines enough so that I can hold my head up high when I'm with other Jag enthusiasts (not many of us around here).

 

lluckyx4,
You know, I believe I have heard of people who can dye large things. May not be their job line (tops on cars) and may only dye things like rugs etc., but I'd give it a try. They may even give you some professional advice on how to go about doing it yourself.
I'm not a cheap sort of guy (Most of the time), but I do believe in saving what money I can by just not throwing money here and there. For $2150, I sure as heck would try--or have someone try. Maybe even a body shop.........a spray gun and some dye doesn't sound that hard...

Cheers

 

Following on from Chuck's suggestion, have a look at this Protex product:

https://www.amazon.com/Protex-World-.../dp/B00745IFR4

This particular ad is for their black canvas top dye but in the product description it states 'products also available for vinyl soft tops' and 'also available in dark blue'.

Graham

 

I have the same situation with my Audi (dark blue top). PO tried to clean the top with a pressure washer. I've tried RIT liquid fabric dye with no success.

 

Not sure there is a fix if the material is damaged, but since you only need a temporary remedy, try a good conditioning of the top.

My dark blue top has lighter lines where the metal bows hold the shape. When I do my top conditioning each year the first effect I see is that it darkens the overall shade and makes the top more uniform in color. I use the 303 product.

Worth a try. It's inexpensive, about $18 for the conditioner and about two hours of labor. Let it sit overnight out of the sun and see if it helps. Make sure to cover the paint and glass (newspapers work great) around the top as the protectant is difficult to get off paint.

 

I have used RaggTopp cleaner and protectant twice, now, but I can still see the damage. The material is actually raised where the power washer impacted the top. I don't think recoloring the top would help - I actually was considering trying to find a way to SHAVE the damaged area. Gave up that idea - couldn't find a way to make it feasible. The lines are not as prominent as they were 14 - 15 months ago when I bought the car, perhaps due to weather and my brushing the top with a RaggTopp horsehair brush each time when I cleaned the top. Maybe the lines will be even less evident come this fall when I will make my final decision - buy a new top, or put up with this one.

 

Maybe use one of those sticky lint rollers on the undamaged sections. When new they actually pull very hard - might lift some fibers in the fabric.

 

I saw this post in San Francisco Craigslist. I don't know if it is your color but for the price someone else might be interested.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/5647541105.html

 

Good price, but you're right, it's not the dark blue color that I need.

 

I had the experience you describe. I brought my XK8 to a carwash and they used a pressure sprayer on the convertible top with the same result except for one thing: at one spot, they actually bore a small hole right through the fabric exposing a black (rubber?) membrane below.

My question is this: Since the membrane itself is still intact, can I continue to drive the car without risking water leaking through the hole in the canvas? I don't want to risk water leaking through and damaging my headliner. But I'm not sure I want to spend $1,900 (which was the price quoted by my upholster) to have the top replaced.

 

My opinion - and my opinion only - is that if the water gets past the canvas, down to the membrane, it has to eventually go somewhere. And, if it does go somewhere, you probably will not be happy with the eventual result. Maybe you can find something to cover the hole with a temporary patch.

 

I would not pressure-wash the top, but I would go after it with a more aggressive brush than your horsehair-bristle one. Probably a stiff plastic-bristle brush or maybe even a metal-bristle brush as a last resort. Go lightly with it at first, then increase the pressure once you get a feel for how much abrasion it is creating. But do this only once you've decided that you will indeed replace the top if all else fails. Good luck and keep us posted....

 

I have ordered 303 Cleaner and Protectant.

My plan is to try cleaning the top with the cleaner and a brush, twice, to see if I can brush out the spray washer "doodle" marks, and brush down the areas of raised fabric.

I will then apply the Protectant.

I'll see if this improves the top's looks and whether, after rain, I can see any water getting in anywhere. If I don't see water getting in, I'll learn to live with the small hole that the spray washer bore into the fabric rather than spend the $1,900 for a replacement top.

But if anyone knows from experience that this is a bad idea, and that I should be replacing the top now, please let me know.

 

I applied the 303 liquid to a faded, worn, tan top. The top took on a bit darker (wet) appearance but that faded after @ 3~4 weeks back to the original appearance. My main reason for using it was to give some serviceable time prior to replacement. The water repelling ability was what I was looking for and it still provides that repellant ability after 2 months. From an aesthetic point of view it does not look any better since the 303 has ‘dried’ out.


I used the sprayer and masked off the car (which is quite important). If I was to do it again I would brush/roll it on since any overspray does require rewaxing of painted surfaces and thorough cleaning of glass.


wj

 

You just convinced me to stick with RaggTopp instead of trying 303. When I used R-T the overspray did get on the glass and paintwork. I took a cloth dampened with warm water, which removed most of it. After the next hand wash doing nothing special, it was 100% removed. There is nothing in the instructions about masking the car off for a very good reason: it isn't necessary. Maybe RaggTopp lasts a bit less longer than 303 but avoiding the hassle of cleanup makes it worth it to me.

 

I do a 303 application once per year and simply have my wife hold an old bath towel over the glass surfaces and painted surfaces as I move around the ragtop with the spray bottle. She stays just ahead of me with the bath towel. No masking required and if we take our time (maybe a total of six to eight minutes) and don't try to perform this application on a windy day, there is virtually no clean-up required afterwards....