I am moving from my "window rattle" thread to this one since I suspect the rattle at the driver's door that I have been hearing does not have anything to do with the window. What made me suspicious is that the sound (from inside the car) seems to be coming from pretty high up on the door and very much towards the rear (almost sounded like it was behind me).

So what I did was pound lightly on the door (on the outside) in different locations and I found that pounding just above the door handle where the outside door panel meets the outside window rub strip results in the rattle that I think I am hearing. With the door closed I could get rid of this by pushing on the rub strip and, for a while, the rattle was gone. But after driving a while it came back. If I pound on that area of the door with the door opened I can clearly hear it.

So I am wondering what hardware is up in that area that might be causing this? Again, it seems to have something to do with the rub strip but maybe manipulating that just pushes things in a position to temporarily mute the rattle.

Any ideas before I open up the door again?

Thanks,

Doug

 

Hi Doug I think if you look at my post on "window rattle" I would imagine that one or both rattle rubbers will be in the bottom of the door.The smaller one fits on metal return on the other side of the glass (looking from inside) with a good light you might see where its left a mark when it was attached (door lock side )
See my photo's hope you can follow.

Good luck Al

 

Al,

I was thinking it was NOT the window only because the window is all the way up and seems pretty secure but I will check next time I remove the door panel. I recall someone mentioning about some fastener on some metal plate near the handle that comes loose and causes a rattle, but I was not sure if they meant the outside door handle or the inside door handle.

By the way, when I removed the door panel the plastic sheeting inside the door looked like it was a bit tattered. Does anyone bother replacing this (it would likely be a bear)?

Doug

 

Can you repair with gaffa tape? or cut a new piece and tape it over the old one. Al

 

Yeah--if I want to repair the plastic sheet I can probably tape it up. I suspect this sheet is more important in rainy areas where the car will be exposed rather than in dry sunny areas like SoCal.

By the way, getting back to the rattle, it does sound more metallic rather than something hitting against the glass which is why I was starting to rule out the window.

Doug

 

Hi Doug either way you will have to get into the door and have a look around.

I drove around for a few days with the inside of the door exposed much more noisey and cold,even if not going to get wet the liners might reduce sound levels.

Interested to know the solution.

good luck Al

 

Doug
On the drivers door there is a plate up above the door handle it's cadmium plated and held in with one bolt. it's only on the drivers door. I think it keeps the key lock rods inside from hitting the window. you have to remove the door panel and have the window all the way up. It's been awhile but you may need a 1/4" drive, extension and a swivel. It has been the source of many door rattles.

 

Doug,

This is what I was trying to understand. By "plate above the door handle" I assume you are referring to the OUTER door handle and not the handle you pull from inside the car?

Thanks.

Doug

 

Seismicguy,

"the sound (from inside the car) seems to be coming from pretty high up on the door and very much towards the rear (almost sounded like it was behind me)"

You are describing exactly the same sound I've been chasing. I thought it was up in the convertible top frame and have spent a number of futile attempts fishing around up there trying to feel the loose components. I never thought it might be inside the door, but will shift my attentions there now.

Thanks for taking the time to describe your observations, they've helped me expand my search! I'll have a look inside my door too, and fill in here.

Steve

 

Hey Steve--great minds think alike! I was starting to think it was the convertible frame also. Now all I/we need to do is figure out what it is.

Doug

 

As quoted by Seismic GuySorry I didn't get back I've been gone for a day.
I'm talking about the outside door handle.

 

SeismicGuy,

I removed my driver door panel this morning, and found the screw securing the bracket behind the door handle described by RCSign. It wasn't loose, but it could turn a 1/4 turn tighter without a lot of effort (actually takes a 7mm wrench/socket).

I wasn't satisfied that this was the problem so I removed the quarter panel top cover (2 screws at the rear, one serving as the snap for the tonneau cover, seat belt bolt, and one small screw near the seat belt) and checked out that space. Found a plastic housing that I think surrounds the speaker was loose, and could be moved about 1 mm making the sound I was hearing. Not wanting to remove all the pieces of the rear seat needed to remove the rear quarter inside panel, I just folded a piece of cardboard and wedged it down between the housing and the cover for now.

This cured the sound I was hearing, and might be a clue to yours, too.

All the best,
Steve

 

Hey Steve--that's good information. I assume you are talking about what is referred to as the quarter panel casing? I will need to remove that to install a wind deflector that I just bought from another Forum member and will have a look. Still need to get around to removing the door panel again since my pounding on the outside of the door above the handle results in a noise sort of like I am hearing (this does not happen on the passenger door).

By the way, I am missing the screw that is beneath the window switch plate that holds the panel to the door at that location. Is it basically the same or similar to the one under the rubber mat in the door pocket? I don't think I really need it and by leaving it lost I don't have to go through the hassle of removing the window switch plate but still it might be nice to have the proper screw.

Thanks,

Doug

 

Doug,
Yes, I think that could be called the rear quarter casing. I don't know the length of that screw, like Reverend Sam's on his video showing the door panel removal, the plastic tab on my switch module is broken and I didn't need to remove the screw - but since the switch module is right behind, if I was buying a replacement I'd start with 3/8 or 1/2 inch (or should I say 10-12mm?) long.
Steve

 

Well I did the door panel removal again and still didn't accomplish much. I was not missing the screw that holds the switchpack in but, rather, the screw below that that holds the door panel to the metal frame bracket. I guessed that this would be about the same size as the screw under the little rubber mat in the door pocket and I was right so I bought one.

I still couldn't see very much of what was going on inside the door by looking through the upper access hole and eventually gave up and put things back together again.

Then it occurred to me that to see more I would need to remove the rubber molding/sweep that rubs against the window--at least the one on the inside of the window. I believe that piece has been removed in the pictures that Alag posted. So the obvious question is does this piece remove easily without breaking anything (like a pressure fit onto the metal upper door flange) and does it just push on again?

Oh yeah, I broke one of the plastic rivets that press into the holes to hold the panel to the door and bought some generic ones at Pep Boys that work okay. But I will probably pass by my local Jag parts warehouse where the guy says he has a bunch of these.


Doug

 

Hi Doug Yes I did take that rubber strip off I think it just unclips you have to wriggle it upwards a bit tight. I have just been and looked I can't see any screws holding it.
With that off and the panel off you should see whats wrong.

Cheers Al

 

Thanks Al. As usual when I do any type of even small work on the car it turns into a saga. The secondary problem I have is that when I lower the window and then eventually raise it, there is sometimes a small grease-like smudge on the inside glass. I suspect it is due to the think plastic sheet on the inside of the door that is sort of flopping around. I guess it needs to be secured to something.

Doug

 

My drivers window also had grease marks and is slightly scratched without those two rubber guides in place the window must catch some metal/plastic on its travels.

Cheers Al

 

The upper window molding pulls straight up. I know a couple of other members thought they where glued on. Mine comes off easily, you have to start it when you install it under the front mirror about a 1/2".

 

I haven't had the chance yet to dig in again and have just been putting up with the occasional rattle that sounds like it is coming from inside the door near the handle.

However, the next time I remove the door panel I would like to try and tidy up the plastic sheet that is inside the door. It is not tightly secured to anything and I believe the grease spots inside the window are caused by this. I have tried searching around the local auto parts stores for a product like Blue-Tak but none of the usual places have this (Pep Boys, AutoZone, and a few other local places). The closest I came was one store that carried the 3M caulk stuff that comes in strips but they only sell a large box for about $20 or more when all I need is maybe one or two strips.

Does anyone have an idea of where to easily get this stuff short of maybe a body shop or auto glass repair shop?

Thanks,

Doug