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if you are just re-spraying the top. mask other areas off with foil so it can be molded around all the little bits and weird shapes. I used black caliper paint (able to withstand very high heat) to do a touch up
mhminnich showed how he masked in the "what did you work on today" thread. I just don't have confidence in myself to not get it everywhere just masking, so wondering if they come off somewhat easily.
The cover that says V8 is pretty easy to remove, but the intercoolers are much more work. The bolts to remove them require the supercharger to be removed, which requires a bunch of stuff. I did paint all of this with my XJR when I rebuilt the supercharger a year ago. There is an engine paint that works great for this that I used, i am posting what I posted in the X308 forum. That paint was an excellent match. Looks beautiful!
I'd do what the others say about masking and painting in place, otherwise it's a weekend project to remove all the stuff, and really about $400 worth of parts you should replace if you have it off (valley hoses, intercooler hoses, vacuum tubing, gaskets, etc).
Originally Posted by 80sRule
I followed the JTIS procedures that are available here in Jim Lombardi's excellent post:
Originally Posted by jimlombardi
Hi
Here is a bunch of JTIS21 extracts that make up the 9 PDF files I created that give instructions & illustrations on the Supercharger Removal & Installation.
The Supercharger R&I PDF calls out 8 other procedures that I also extracted into PDF files. I am not sure that all these procedures are needed (maybe other members have actually removed the supercharger) and there maybe some shortcut methods that have been used.
The job to remove the SC from the vehicle took a little over 2 hours to do alone, and was pretty straightfoward. I did have my dad help on actually lifting the SC out since I didn't want to juggle it and bang it around and possibly snag wiring and vacuum hoses. That was maybe a minute of fiddling.
Things went EXACTLY to plan and the docs are EXCELLENT, and I only broke a small t-connector on a throttle body vacuum hose ($5 on ebay from jaguarpartsplace), and realized that the connector from the coolant overflow tank to the thermostat housing ($16 on ebay from rusnak jaguar) was cracked internally on the norma connector, and the stupid fitting for the brake booster vacuum line to the throttle elbow ($15 from jaguarpartsplace). I say "only" broke because on Corvettes I've owned, the plastic at this age made it a crapshoot of how brittle and likely something is to break. I usually just bought every single vacuum and plastic hose on that car and replaced them.
Tonight I am sucking out the SC oil, and separating the snout from the body of the SC. My dad is a machinist (I'm a software engineer), and I don't have a great press at home, so he's taking the SC to work and his going to clean the case, snout, the V8 plate and the intercooler manifolds in the parts washer, and then remove and install the 4 bearings sometime this week.
I am also going to be doing a paint job on the SC since it looks like much powder coat is missing and looks really crappy. Per Dr. D's post, I am trying this color:
Originally Posted by Dr. D
Howdy Folks:
About 4 years ago, I found Duplicolor Engine Enamel "DE1651 Cast Coat Iron" (500 Degree Ceramic) to match mine quiet well. It is widely available, even at Walmart. You may want to try some on a sample piece to see if it matches yours.
Since the whole shebang is off the car, it'll match!
Question though, is the 10% pulley really that big of a difference, it's $170 and not hard to machine the snout with access to a full machine shop.
06-01-2017, 09:10 PM
