Hi Guys
I need to replace the bushes and ball joints on my lower control arms.
Is it a huge job to get them out? Anything I need to be especially careful with?
I'll be giving the arms to a local mechanic to get the old bushes/ball joints pressed in and out.
Will also be doing this in my garage not on a hoist. I recently replaced the upper control arm bushes, upper and lower shock mounts and sway bar bushes without too much drama.
Any tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers Jeff

 

If you have done all that other stuff, there shouldn't be any particularly complicated challenges !
Others will probably have more to add, but the following may help :

The lower arm is actually in two halves - you will need a good quality "Torx" bit to undo the bolts holding them together.

I think that on some cars (not on my '97) - there's an eccentric bolt which is used to set the camber (?) angle - you should be aware of this and mark the head accordingly before removing it.

The pivot bolt on the rear of the arm is a bit tricky to get out - you must either drop the steering rack a little, or you can pull back the rubber gaiter on the steering rack and, with the steering on full lock, there's just enough room to get the bolt out. If the bolts on the steering rack are rusty or corroded - the latter is maybe the better alternative.

I assume (from the use of "sway bar") that you are in the US. Here in the UK, it's possible to get a reconditioned exchange lower control arm with new bushes and balljoint for pretty much the same money as it would cost to get the parts and labour at a garage / shop. Not sure that's an option for you ?

 

When I was working on other things I tested how hard it is to remove those bolts. They wouldn't budge. Bob, our local expert said to use heat.

In prep for your job maybe others can comment. Seems that a propane touch is not gonna be enough based on past comments.

John

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm in New Zealand but I've already purchased the bushes and ball joints. The upper control arm bolts weren't too bad to remove. Hoping these ones will be the same .

 

When l did this job on mine l found it more convenient to simply remove lower wishbone as one piece rather than split due to the torx bolts being almost impossible to budge and my reluctance to heat that part.

 

Thanks for this. I intend keeping the wishbone in one piece. Was referring to the bolts holding it on and whether I would actually have to move the steering box etc.

 

l removed the rack mounts but left the rack in place and connected, it only needs a tiny bit of movement to clear for the one lower wishbone fulcrum bolt. From memory LH bolt on RHD, not sure if it reverses for LHD or not.
A certain amount of ingenuity is needed when pressing new lower balljoint in because of angled nature of wishbone in that area.