Yes, the car was fine until the leak, and even during the leak it would start up marvelously.



I wonder if disconnecting the battery overnight to avoid any spark could be causing it? Maybe that's why the hard reset could work.
Also, I disconnected my battery by first removing the negative cable, and then the positive.

Was this wrong?

 

If it was me I would retrace my steps - it only seems to have happened since you worked on the car so I would remove the fuel regulator and check everything is correctly fitted and no leaks etc..

 

I already did this, not more than 15 minutes ago. I removed the regulator again, and checked that everything was fitted correctly. Then I put it all back in place, carefully, and tried starting the car.

I did leave the car overnight without the regulator, so I could compare new o-rings at the store. I did however, put a rag on the orifice, with a ziplock bag to avoid any humidity creeping in.

 

I did the hard reset. It did nothing but frustrate me further.

 

Hi.


My first thought is that you might have disturbed the vacuum line from the regulator to the throttle body induction elbow.

 

ya think if that vac in was an issue now that it would throw a light? If the regulator was bad would he get a CEL?

 

I wonder if the regulator just died on you, this is odd. I had mine off the fuel rail for WEEKS not sealed up or anything, put it back on my rail when it came back from a rebld and it worked fine.

 

Did you mess with that cross over line in the front of the rails, that goes from one side to the other? Didn't put some hand weight on it? If orig, that have a HARD core to them, they are not complete rubber, not on my 03 anyways.

 

Are you talking about the one that is covered by a heat shield sheath? I'll take a look at this, I remember having had to mend it once.

I fear this, I accidentally dropped the regulator. When I picked it up from the ground it seemed undamaged.


No, I didn't mess with it, and it is in fact intact. I didn't put weight on anything.

 

I checked everything again, it all seems ok.

I started the car, it idled roughly for quite a while. During this time I was able to get into the trunk and I heard the fuel pump working.

The car idled until it stalled and gave me a restricted performance warning with the following codes:

P0300
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304

which I believe are all misfire codes, and then:

P1316

 

[QUOTE=giandanielxk8;1168966]Are you talking about the one that is covered by a heat shield sheath? I'll take a look at this, I remember having had to mend it once.


No, that is your brake booster vacuum line.


I am talking about this one

 

[QUOTE=oyster;1169027]
Well, yeah, I had to disconnect it and reconnect it, but it is in good shape. I'm pretty sure of that. Was I supposed to remove the regulator without disconnecting that line from it?

I'm starting to think the regulator did not at all like being dropped.

 

I would get another regulator. The drop prob did it. You say they are costly, try to see if FORD sells them, prob do, heck the orig may have ford stamped on it?? May not cost as much.

 

here is what is on my 03, same as yours?
03 2003 Jaguar XK8 Fuel Pressure Regulator - Fuel Injection - Genuine - PartsGeek

 

damn, is this what yours looks like? Costly for a 2000...

00 2000 Jaguar XK8 Fuel Pressure Regulator - Fuel Injection - Genuine, Standard Motor Products - PartsGeek

 

Yeah, they are about $327.00, and by special order, no less from SNG. However, rockauto sells one for $150.00. I have never had a problem with parts from them, however I am always wary.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=406&jpid=0

Checking around, it seems neither the T-bird nor the Lincoln LS used the regulator.

 

Nope, not the same.

Yup, costly. The cheapest I have found is from rockauto. I'd hate to spend all that money and still not have it work.

 

Have you checked you fuel pressure?

 

The hard reset clears the memory so the car will readjust to what it is seeing now and not what it was.

 

All I can do is check if anything comes out of the schrader valve; I don't have a fuel pressure gauge around.

Here's what I get with the Schrader valve:
In position two, after cycling a few times the ignition to get the pumps going and the system pressurized: nothing comes out through the valve.

When I start the car, through the valve I can get fuel pouring out just as slowly as a cup of water pours when you overfill it. Is it supposed to relieve fuel with much more force? I don't know, but it seems to me that there's not much pressure in the rails. This is one reason I believe either the fuel pump is not working, or it is not working at full capacity.

A fuel pump seems to be the cheaper option, costing as little as $42 + $5 strainer. For $47 + I can get a new fuel pump, however, I think I'll go for one of the not so cheap options, which would bring the cost to about $66.07 inc. shipping.

That's still better than the price on a new regulator. I'll try to get my hands on a gauge.

Oh, just thought of something... Since the schrader valve is so similar to the valve for tire fill ups, could I use one of those tire pressure gauges on the schrader valve?

I wonder, the car is currently displaying just a hairline below a quart of petrol. Could it be that there isn't enough fuel in the tank to pump and pressurize the system?