I give up on this car. I have done everything I know to do and still get constant 0304, 1384, and 1396 errors I am just going to park it or maybe part out. I don't know yet

 

Hi Dale


What all have you done so far? The codes you have is for misfire cylinder #4, P1384 is for VVT solenoid Bank 1, and P1396 is for VVT solenoid Bank 2.


Does the engine run as it should, or running rough? Do these codes clear at all, and do they come straight back after clearing?

 

I have replaced all timing parts, both vvts, both solenoids, all plugs, and coil pack and new maf sensor. Found wire going from ECM to Cyl 4 did not have continuity so I ran separate wire. Engine has misfire at idle but runs good otherwise. Engine light is intermittent and also restricted performance. Can clear codes but sometimes comes right back and sometimes runs quite awhile. Also, have checked compression in all cylinders. Installed whitexkr's temp and oil pressure gauge and removed oil pan to check for debris. None found.

 

It is entirely possible that your injector has a problem.

 

That's sort of what I was thinking but how does that relate to 1384 and 1396 codes

 

Is yours an AJ26 or 27

 

Sorry! In your post #3 you talked about #4 misfire the VVT is another issue. I assume you changed the oil what oil did you put in?

 

Mobil 1 synthetic. Tried 10w30, 10w40, and 15w40. Tried adding restore still no help. Has 50-60 lbs oil pressure above 1500 rpm. Bout 20-25 at hot idle. Still confused on aj26 and 27. Vvt solenoid in valve cover and 4 wire coils.

 

Dale don't give up. I have a F250 that I have been working on for a few months and haven't figured out yet. I walk away for a couple of weeks then try again. I'm not thinking of parting it out.
According to DTC summaries these are the possible causes

VVT solenoid valve to ECM PWM drive circut fault

VVT solenoid valve to ECM ground fault

VVT solenoid failure. I doubt this is the problem since you changed these along with the VVT. They were used nut the odds of having 4 bad ones is almost impossible.

VVT oil flow fault.

VVT/ camshaft failure. You changed the VVT


Since you have both failing I would think they would have to be something in common. I followed the wiring diagram and they both have seperate wires back to the ECM. Not a strong possibility but I would still check the continuity from VVTs to ECM.

I haven't had a chance to follow the ground circuit but I bet they have a common ground.

Oil fault. I think that is where Gus is thinking about. I have read some post about different oil and viscosities can cause problems. What did the inside of the engine look like. Was it clean or was it dirty. Maybe someone else remembers but I think there is a oil screen in the carrier assembly, was that clear of debris. I don't think it would be the o rings since you had the code before they were removed.

Just a few rambling thoughts.

You are an AJ27. At least that is where the VVT and solenoids I sent you came from.

 

An AJ26 has 2 leads to the coil pack and an AJ27 has 4.

Gus

 

BobRoy, I pulled oil pickup screen and cleaned real good. Very little residue. I have checked continuity from both wires on both solenoids back to ECM. Found one wire from #4 coil pack to ecm that did not have continuity and repaired. My thought are fuel injector or ecm. Any thoughts? Thanks to you and Gus both. You guys are amazing.

 

I read your thread last night that you and mike, michaelh, have gone over almost everything. The only thing I can think of is if the previous hacks damaged the carrier assemblies. You also mentioned doing some rewiring, what did you do there. Is it possible the wires got reversed?

 

In thr faults it mentions PWM. I don't k ow what this is. I searched the forum and came up with " pulse width modulation". I don't know if this is correct for this issue. Maybe one our more experienced members has an idea. Might be ECM check VCATS to make sure its the correct module. The previous hacks could have done something that damaged the ECM. I have a spare 99 ECM I could send you. The VCATS would have to match and I think it would need to be introduced to the car with dealer software. I haven't done this so I'm not sure about the proper process. If you want to try it out let md know and I'll send it to you.

DON'T GIVE UP!!!

Edit: sorry for the mis typing. I have big fingers on a cell phone.

 

+1

Dale, please don't give up: park it for a while and revisit once the frustration has vented. I know it's easy for me to say from the comfort of a chair, but you've invested too much time, effort and money to give up now.

I'll repeat the saga of my MG misfiring and not re-starting once it got hot (but only sometimes). I chased nearly everything: coil, plugs & leads, points, condenser, carburettors, timing, connectors over about three years. Turned out to be a 2" piece of earthing braid between the sliding plates in the distributor.

I'm thinking along similar lines to BobRoy about whether someone previously either damaged something or fitted a wrong part. The engine # on yours shows Feb 2000 as a build date IIRC.

Did you try running with the topmost rear cam cover bolts removed?

I'm sure I've seen a picture somewhere of the outputs of the three sensors involved being monitored. Does the Jaguar diagnostic kit do this? It would be the way to see whether the cam timings are correct - or not, which is what the car is reporting.


Nil desperandum. You will get there.


Mike

 

Bob, PWM is the way the shuttles are controlled from closed to fully open.

The ECM switches them on and off about 300 times a second. It also varies how long the power is applied during that 300th of a second (the width of the pulse). The shuttles just can't move that quickly so they settle at the average point. The wider the pulse the higher the average is and vice-versa.

Hope that makes sense. It's easier to tell in pictures - can't get to any atm as at work.

Not sure if CVVT really is progress as it makes very little difference for the extra complication. On mine they're just on or off - simples


Mike

 

I'm thinking along similar lines to BobRoy about whether someone previously either damaged something or fitted a wrong part. The engine # on yours shows Feb 2000 as a build date IIRC.

Did you try running with the topmost rear cam cover bolts removed?




Mike[/QUOTE]


With that build date this is not the origional engine. It might of been mention before and I just missed it. It being changed could have done things.
It possible they could have done electrical work or welding without disconnecting the battery possibly damaging the ECM.
First remove the cam bolts Mike mentioned. I haven't had this problem but I understand that the incorrect bolts can interfere with the cam sensors.

 

Dale, I also wanted to offer words of encouragement. Nobody enjoys car work under frustration, but think of how cool it will be when you finally get it resolved. Think of how much more this car will feel yours.

If you are still collecting wild ideas, I remember a master mechanic of sorts in my old E30 M3 days that was periodically venting about the use of RTV and other adhesives in car work. Folks tented to use too much, it eventually worked its way loose and got picked up by the oil flow. These E30 M3 engines have an oil-pressure based chain tensioner. Unavoidably, those RTV bits ended up clogging these oil passages, resulting in chain rattling, or worse.

In summary, I am suggesting you check the oil supply channels to the VVTs. Blow compressed air into them. Find a flexible implement to make sure they are free of any possible type of debris. Just a thought.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

I'm not giving up. Was just so frustrated yesterday. That's when I found no continuity from cylinder 4 coil pack to ecm on one wire and repaired thinking that would fix problem but it did not. Also, removed 2 rear upper bolts on cam cover and ran. No help. Checking torque app this morning I can see timing advancing and retarding with rpm so it appears solenoids and vvt are doing their job just not being reported correctly. Thank you all for the encouragement and endless help. I think my misfire may be injector as I have no other answer. I'm going to do some troubleshooting on injector and see what I find. As always input and suggestions are appreciated

 

Hang in there, Dale. Our thoughts are with you.

I'd take out the ECM and smell and throughly inspect if there are any burned out capacitors. The ECM parts will not last for that long.

 

Hello Dale. Let me throw another idea at you. When you replaced your valvetrain tensioners, did you inspect the camshafts, camshaft caps and lifters? When I did my ('97) engine, I found some wear and tear on the driver's side bank (for whatever reason driver side only...don't recall if that is the A or B bank). For example, a couple of lifters were mightily worn (and replaced) and there was wear under a couple of cam caps (repaired with emery paper and "fingernail" test). Really not sure that the wear would throw a trouble code, but perhaps it is worth a look. Good Luck. I'm sure you will find the answer after you take a figurative walk around the block and come back to it....I'm rooting for your ECM however as you probably have seen all you want to see under the valve covers.