UPDATE: For anyone with a similar problem, I resolved my problem by adding a check-valve to the fuel line to prevent fuel from draining out of the fuel line and back into the tank. My solution is documented starting at post 28 in this thread. That doesn't mean it will necessarily fix a similar problem on your car, but it's a possibility.

UPDATE TWO! I had to get back to the check-valve because I developed a leak (it was my own fault). I made a video this time. It is at post #47.

UPDATE THREE! Before trying the check-valve solution on your car, please read post #52. If you have a 2003+ XK it probably won't work because there is no vent line which returns to the fuel tank. Pressure builds up after engine shutdown and prevents the car from starting.

Whenever I leave my car sitting for an hour or more I have to crank the engine for 5 to 10 seconds before it finally starts. It ALWAYS starts, it's just embarrassing waiting for it to eventually start. I know it's a fuel system issue. I've measured the pressure on the fuel rail. It loses all pressure after 2 to 3 hours.

I have a workaround that usually works. Before cranking the engine I'll turn the key to the "run" position for about 5 seconds, then turn it completely off and remove the key. Then I'll turn it back to "run" for another 5 seconds. I do this 4 or 5 times and the car always starts right up. Apparently the fuel pump runs for several seconds to pressurize the fuel line when you turn the key to "run".

I've read about several potential culprits. First, it could be a stuck injector that's allowing the pressure to leak out. I don't think this is the case. The engine runs fine once it starts and a stuck injector would cause other problems and probably give me a code on my OBD scanner.

I think it could be the fuel pump. Apparently there's a check-valve in the pump that prevents the fuel from leaking back into the gas tank when the pump isn't running. I think this is the most likely problem, but I don't want to remove the fuel tank unless I've exhausted all other possibilities.

The JTIS says it could be the purge valve. Mine is a 2003. It doesn't have a return line to the fuel tank. Does the 2003 even have a purge valve? If it does, could a bad one cause the pressure in the fuel line to leak off over a few hours?

By the way, I'm not smelling any gas ever, so the pressure is obviously leaking back into the tank and not out into the air.

Also, in the engine compartment on the fuel line there's a little silver thing that looks like a regulator or something. It's right near the oil fill tube. I have no idea what that thing is and I can't find any reference to it in the JTIS, Is that possibly a check valve or something? I'll take a picture if no one knows what I'm talking about.

Thanks in advance for your help. This little problem has been bugging the $#!+ out of me for months. The person who can solve this problem without making me remove the fuel tank will get a big giant hug from my wife.

 

Here's a picture of the little silver regulator-looking thingy I mentioned in the post above. I have no idea what it does but it's right there in series with the fuel line.

 

Having worked on fuel injection sytems for many years, I would not discount the fact that one or more of your injectors could be leaking. A leaking injector could have virtually no affect on idle quality because the leak rate could be far less than what it delivers as a single pulse at idle, yet be large enough to allow a complete fuel system depressurization with the engine off. Thus you may never notice any raw fuel smell. And, the exhaust valve may be closed on the cylinder(s) with the leaking injector(s), depending on where the engine stops in its cycle when you shut it off, thus preventing you from ever smelling the raw fuel.

BTW, the device you have identified in the photo is a fuel pressure dampener, designed to dampen-out the "ringing" fuel-pressure pulsations in the fuel system.

 

So, how does one go about identifying a leaking fuel injector? I've run two bottles of Sea Foam through the system and a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. I'm not going to fix the problem that way.

 

I just thought of something; I could remove the pressure dampener, pressurize the injector side of the system, and see if the pressure bleeds off. If it does, then that means I have a leaky injector. Then I have to identify which of the 8 injectors is leaking. How does one do that?

Holy cow! I thought maybe I'd just replace all of the injectors, but they are $200 each! If it's an injector I really need to identify the bad one.

That's unreal. An injector is $200, but the entire fuel pump can be bought for less than $100. Weird.

 

Hi Sam, If it turns out to be a leaking injector you could take them out and have them professionally cleaned. I saw several sites on the net that provide that service.
A lot cheaper than replacement.

 

I vote for fuel pump check valve. The symptoms you are describing are almost exactly the same as happened on my last car. I had to "prime" the system a couple of times (key on/key off/key on, etc.) and then the car would start right away. Obviously, the fuel pump was working as I could hear the pump operating each time I turned the key and once the car was running there was no discernible problem--car ran great. But after turning the car off the pressure measured at the schrader valve would quickly drop to zero. Turning the key without starting the car would pressurize it back up but for only for the few seconds while the pump was running.

My mechanic and I checked the pressure regulator (no problem) and he somehow concluded it was not an injector since the car was otherwise running fine. He also initially rejected the idea that it was the fuel pump itself since he had replaced it about a year before and that there were no other symptoms. He erroneously concluded there must be a leak in the fuel line somewhere and, when he found none, did a bit more research and suspected it could be the fuel pump check valve. Voila--that was it. He replaced the pump and problem disappeared.

Doug

 

This might be something that I just want someone else to do. I read the tutorial on Gus' site about removing and replacing the fuel pump. I'm sure I could do it, but I don't know if it's worth the hassle.

How much did your mechanic charge you to replace the fuel pump?

 

Hey Rev--the price I paid will probably not compare with what it would cost for the Jag. I had my local Corvette guy replace the fuel pump on my 95 Corvette and am pretty sure he did NOT need to remove the fuel tank to do this. I think the total price of the pump plus labor was maybe $200 give or take a few bucks. Again, if the tank has to be removed in the Jaguar to replace the pump then this will likely be more labor. Also, a Jaguar fuel pump will probably be much more than the Delco or GM pump.

Doug

 

Reverend,

I've got a reciept from the previous owner to replace the fuel pump at the dealer in Tucson, AZ on my '99 XK8. It was done in April of this year and was over $1400 parts and labor.

 

This is weird. I just did an exhaustive search online to try to find a 2003 Jaguar XK8 fuel pump. I can't find one. I found lots of 2002 and earlier fuel pumps, but no 2003+. The 2002 fuel pumps are about $160, but now I'm thinking I'm going to have to buy one from the Jag dealer.

 

I found one on Jagbits http://www.jagbits.com/mm5/merchant....K8_FuelDeliv_7 $525 that's insane.

Check this one out here at Welsh Enterprises... http://www.welshent.com/product_info...th=828_862_866 $95, something doesn't seem quite right on this one, but it is what is listed.

And here is probably the one you will go with... Coventry West, http://store.coventrywest.com/cgi/co...Y=JAG150C23040
$175 and another $20 for the filter screen.

 

Weird... the convetrywest pump says it fits 1997 and 1998 4.2 liter engines. Jag didn't make 4.2 liter engines in those years.

I google searched the part number of the Welsh pump. Other websites say that pump only fits 2000 to 2002 XK8s and it's not compatible with 2003+.

Rockauto.com has the $525 jagbits pump for only $43. fcpgroton has it for $65, but their website says it only fits 1997 and 1998 XK8s.

This is confusing. The pre-2003 pumps seem pretty easy to locate and reasonably priced. The 2003+ pumps seem impossible to find or outrageously priced. I think I'll just deal with the poor starting before I pay $500+ dollars for a stinkin' fuel pump.Especially when that exact part number from rockauto is only $43 but rockauto says it won't fit my car.

 

Last thing to try for pricing is Nalley Jaguar, they are supposed to have decent prices.

 

Ugh... I got the quote from Nalley for my fuel pump. They want $505. I didn't mention that I was a jaguarforums member, which would save me $75, but that's still $430. Why the heck are the 2003+ pumps so expensive? The pre-2002 pumps can be found for under $100.

 

The 2003 XK (4.2 engine) series is a returnless system, and probably other things have changed, even the XKR has just 1 pump from then.

 

Sam, I'm having the same problem with my 2001 XKR. Just putting up with it now. I tried turning the key off and on a couple of times but it didn't seem to help. How many time does it take your before it starts right up.
Be sure to let us know what fixes yours. It would be nice to know if its a reg vlv or check vlv in the fuel pump. I'm headed down the Sea Foam road now.

 

This would make me wonder if it's possible to install another check valve in the fuel line somewhere. It should work, but where to find one and where to splice it in could be hard.

 

Yes I also have this problem on a 2001 XKR. The problem has been there since I got the car in 2004. I assume the two fuel pumps are in the tank and are in parallel. Are the pumps identical and is the return value actually inside the pump ? JITS no use re XKR

I see you can buy then for $86 on ebay and another $10 for the strainer. I assume if you did change them you would have to replace both just to be safe. Are there two strainers?
Airtex Fuel Pump E2471 Strainer FS175 For your 2001 Jaguar XKR 4.0L SFI SC DOHC 8cyl

Or Amazon for $76 + $12 strainer free S&H and no sales tax yippee



http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories

Think I will just wait for them to die!!

 

That's exactly what I was thinking on the drive home a few minutes ago! And I was actually thinking that a good place to install it would be right at the fuel filter near the left rear wheel well. However, there would still be a foot or two of fuel line from the pump to the filter that would lose pressure. I assume the pump could re-pressurize that little section more quickly than it could the entire line, but it still might not solve the problem completely.

I just looked online and I found numerous fuel line check-valves for various size fuel lines. They are all in the $35 range. I might try this. It would be much easier than removing the tank, and much cheaper than buying a new fuel pump.

On second thought, I might install it right where the fuel line comes out of the tank. I could just cut out a short section of the line and insert the check-valve.

So here's a question: Do I measure the outside diameter of the line or the inside diameter?