Good point, it's impossible to know what's going on underneath the bracket or the sway bar. It's going in for an alignment today, the camber was out .28 on the left and .34 on the right so they are going to use shims to bring it back. The shock mounts look very healthy, so maybe the alignment/shims will get rid of the clunking sound.

 

At 53K on my 2001 XKR they had holes in them but looked fine from the outside. If u get a small knock when driving over speed bumps sure sign of a problem. Made a huge difference once I changed them

 

Thanks, Simon. I get the knock turning in and out of the driveway going over the little curb bump, also the "washerboard" style bumps slowing down for stop lights. I've got 82K, so maybe it's time.

 

Thanks for the great info guys. I got the new bushings and am gonna try it soon. Hope it stops the clunking noise. If that doesn't do it, I'm gonna try the drop links, then the struts, hope its fixed before I do that.

 

Hi guys,

I am about to do this job on my 05 XK8...so based on what I read ...it is easier to use ramp instead of jack stand? by using ramp, after the bolts are unscrew the sway bar can be lifted up to swap the bushings?

Let me know if I am understanding correctly.... I try to avoid removing the wheel well liner because i had them ziptied from past mishaps :-)

 

I read one argument that you can do it with the car just sitting in the drive/garage and another to jack up the front end and remove the tires for better access.
Which is the best way?

 

I did this job a couple of weeks back. I put the car on ramps (my stands are otherwise busy), and it worked just fine. The bolts holding the bar down are a bit tricky to reach, but nothing out of the ordinary. Once removed, the bar lifts (some) and the bushings can be slipped off. I had to open the wheel well liner some on the driver side, with the wheel still on, pointing forward. Just undo the bottom 2 pegs and bend it just enough. Looking at the design, the slit in the bushing faces forward, and the bottom "shoulders" fit into recesses in the sub-frame. It more or less fits one way, but it is worth spending a few minutes making sure you are completely happy with the fit. Also, once freed, the bar can move from side to side, there is no lateral stop if you will. Use your best judgement when you put it back together. I went with the bar centered. If off-center, the bar could hit the sub-frame. Then, there is the bushing itself. There is a channel/groove on the inside of it, seemingly begging for some form of goop. I loaded it with petroleum jelly to keep it quiet.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

This just requires an extension correct? I looked at the bolts and I don't think I'll have any issue reaching it...(I have a plethora of extensions)

So even after removing the bolts on both sides, the bar won't move unless I do this?

Lastly, did you replaced them with OEM style or the ploy ones?

Thanks

 

Altogether, it is all about reach. These bushings are in a busy area. I ended up unbolting the passenger side from the bottom because I did not want to remove the air box. The driver side can be done from the top, with a u-joint extension. The transmission cooler lines are a bit in the way, but it is doable. The issue is to replace the bushing. I was not able to do this from the top or bottom. Only from the side after I bent the liner. The bar is free as soon as you remove the U clamps. Altogether, it is fairly obvious once you get there.

PS: I went with OEM-style bushings, not poly.

 

can I do end links while doing the bushing repair also?

 

Sorry for the deadhorse question. I see posts on the bushing split facing rear, facing forward? I should fit the bushing so the split is facing the rear of the vehicle, correct?

 

I'm doing it this way. I plan on doing the links first then the bushings.

 

Yes