Low oil pressure warning at idle
Thank you everyone for your responses/advice. As always your input is appreciated.
Well, I got the pan off and as mentioned, the pickup rattled. Inside was the following:

Hard to get an idea of the size, but there was one particularly large piece that I was shocked made it down there. I ran out of time tonight, but will work on getting everything cleaned up and back together tomorrow night.
As for the screen, what's the best way to clean it? Just run water through it? I was thinking I should have ordered a replacement, but if I can get it cleaned up then it may not be necessary... Thoughts?
Well, I got the pan off and as mentioned, the pickup rattled. Inside was the following:

Hard to get an idea of the size, but there was one particularly large piece that I was shocked made it down there. I ran out of time tonight, but will work on getting everything cleaned up and back together tomorrow night.
As for the screen, what's the best way to clean it? Just run water through it? I was thinking I should have ordered a replacement, but if I can get it cleaned up then it may not be necessary... Thoughts?
Aren't you glad you listened? 
Anyways, how about hot water and dish soap for the pickup tube cleaning? As long as it is dry when you re-install it, it should not be a problem. Just get it into a sink full of soapy water and start sloshing it around.

Anyways, how about hot water and dish soap for the pickup tube cleaning? As long as it is dry when you re-install it, it should not be a problem. Just get it into a sink full of soapy water and start sloshing it around.
Citrus cleaners may be different in the US, but in the UK I find those aimed at the cycling market to be more effective.
Graham
Good work...
Now, I'd just like to say that although it's definitely good you've removed those bits from your oil pan and pick-up screen, this may not completely solve your oil pressure problem. There still may be an issue with the oil pump...you'll know once you've buttoned her back up and take her for a few runs.
No matter what, getting those bits out of the oil system is a very good thing.
Now, I'd just like to say that although it's definitely good you've removed those bits from your oil pan and pick-up screen, this may not completely solve your oil pressure problem. There still may be an issue with the oil pump...you'll know once you've buttoned her back up and take her for a few runs.
No matter what, getting those bits out of the oil system is a very good thing.
I am curious as to what your final fix was - as I experienced the same condition on this cold Michigan morning. The oil pressure light and gage were cycling on and off from no oil pressure to full normal. After a short ride around the block - common sense prevailed so I put my 2001 Coupe back in the garage and took my back up vehicle to work. Where do I start, the sensor, the pan? I have fresh synthetic 5W30 and have never changed the tensioners and I have 60,000 miles. My oil filter is not OEM, so could it be a factor? thanks
I am curious as to what your final fix was - as I experienced the same condition on this cold Michigan morning. The oil pressure light and gage were cycling on and off from no oil pressure to full normal. After a short ride around the block - common sense prevailed so I put my 2001 Coupe back in the garage and took my back up vehicle to work. Where do I start, the sensor, the pan? I have fresh synthetic 5W30 and have never changed the tensioners and I have 60,000 miles. My oil filter is not OEM, so could it be a factor? thanks
I am curious as to what your final fix was - as I experienced the same condition on this cold Michigan morning. The oil pressure light and gage were cycling on and off from no oil pressure to full normal. After a short ride around the block - common sense prevailed so I put my 2001 Coupe back in the garage and took my back up vehicle to work. Where do I start, the sensor, the pan? I have fresh synthetic 5W30 and have never changed the tensioners and I have 60,000 miles. My oil filter is not OEM, so could it be a factor? thanks
I suspect however that you may have a sensor problem, and I'd be surprised if the oil filter was causing it. It would need to be very choked up to cause a fluctuating guage.
Cheers,
Languid
JeffsJag,
i meant to say, also check your thermostat housing and your water pump while you're at it. Little sense in having the front apart for tensioners etc, and leaving a plastic (bakelite) thermostat housing in place, because if it isn't leaking now it sure will be soon. Replace it with the aluminium bodied variety, not another 'genuine' plastic. And check your water pump at the same time. The early ones were also a type of plastic, and were prone to distortion & failure if they got too hot. The later ones are ceramic vaned and much better.
Cheers,
Languid
i meant to say, also check your thermostat housing and your water pump while you're at it. Little sense in having the front apart for tensioners etc, and leaving a plastic (bakelite) thermostat housing in place, because if it isn't leaking now it sure will be soon. Replace it with the aluminium bodied variety, not another 'genuine' plastic. And check your water pump at the same time. The early ones were also a type of plastic, and were prone to distortion & failure if they got too hot. The later ones are ceramic vaned and much better.
Cheers,
Languid
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-begins-70394/
Sorry, maybe I should have mentioned I had just done the tensioners
Sorry, maybe I should have mentioned I had just done the tensioners
JeffsJag,
i meant to say, also check your thermostat housing and your water pump while you're at it. Little sense in having the front apart for tensioners etc, and leaving a plastic (bakelite) thermostat housing in place, because if it isn't leaking now it sure will be soon. Replace it with the aluminium bodied variety, not another 'genuine' plastic. And check your water pump at the same time. The early ones were also a type of plastic, and were prone to distortion & failure if they got too hot. The later ones are ceramic vaned and much better.
Cheers,
Languid
i meant to say, also check your thermostat housing and your water pump while you're at it. Little sense in having the front apart for tensioners etc, and leaving a plastic (bakelite) thermostat housing in place, because if it isn't leaking now it sure will be soon. Replace it with the aluminium bodied variety, not another 'genuine' plastic. And check your water pump at the same time. The early ones were also a type of plastic, and were prone to distortion & failure if they got too hot. The later ones are ceramic vaned and much better.
Cheers,
Languid
The low oil pressure at idle is well explainable when you have got a broken upper tensioner as oil might be pissing out and therefor at idle this might be the cause of oil pressure not building up.
Well gentlemen, the removal of the oil pan and all the deposits inside seems to have solved my low oil pressure problem. I got everything back together and started the car, drove it for a while, and the light has not come back on. So this is certainly positive. I haven't given it a decent drive yet, but so far so good.
Thank you everyone for your advice - much appreciated.
Thank you everyone for your advice - much appreciated.
Howdy Folks:
For what it's worth, I have used this old SW hydro-mechanical oil pressure gage for many years. The last time was a couple months ago on my 06 Charger RT. The digital sensor was giving erratic readings from 5-95 psi. I installed this SW gage in place of the oil temp gage sensor. It has 15 ft. of hose so that I can compare its readings directly with the digital dashboard display. The SW gage was reading correctly as the dash display did its fluctuating thing. I was then convinced that it was the sensor and I replaced it. Afterward, both gages read in sync.
For what it's worth, I have used this old SW hydro-mechanical oil pressure gage for many years. The last time was a couple months ago on my 06 Charger RT. The digital sensor was giving erratic readings from 5-95 psi. I installed this SW gage in place of the oil temp gage sensor. It has 15 ft. of hose so that I can compare its readings directly with the digital dashboard display. The SW gage was reading correctly as the dash display did its fluctuating thing. I was then convinced that it was the sensor and I replaced it. Afterward, both gages read in sync.
Last edited by Dr. D; Apr 15, 2012 at 06:18 AM. Reason: omitted word
Johnny,
Sorry to hear this.
This would be my next step if you've got an old gauge kicking around.
Any gauge - the type used to measure air pressure - will work.
Sorry to hear this.
Howdy Folks:
For what it's worth, I have used this old SW hydro-mechanical oil pressure gage for many years. The last time was a couple months ago on my 06 Charger RT. The digital sensor was giving erratic readings from 5-95 psi. I installed this SW gage in place of the oil temp gage. It has 15 ft. of hose so that I can compare its readings directly with the digital dashboard display. The SW gage was reading correctly as the dash display did its fluctuating thing. I was then convinced that it was the sensor and I replaced it. Afterward, both gages read in sync.
For what it's worth, I have used this old SW hydro-mechanical oil pressure gage for many years. The last time was a couple months ago on my 06 Charger RT. The digital sensor was giving erratic readings from 5-95 psi. I installed this SW gage in place of the oil temp gage. It has 15 ft. of hose so that I can compare its readings directly with the digital dashboard display. The SW gage was reading correctly as the dash display did its fluctuating thing. I was then convinced that it was the sensor and I replaced it. Afterward, both gages read in sync.
Any gauge - the type used to measure air pressure - will work.
Because my oil light and gauge were erratic and the signal was not linked to engine RPM it made me think this was electrical malfunction rather than a mechanical problem. So, I thought I would start at replacing the Oil Pressure sensor LCA5642AA. The Import Direct part purchased at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $11.99 was made by FAE which was the original manufacturer for Jaguar. Under the car I noticed small coolant leakage (probably the composite thermostat housing weeping) had wicked it's way onto the connector and housing of the sensor and with some corrosion probably preventing a good ground signal. Cleaning this area and replacing the sensor and metal gasket fixed my issue. This did point out that the T stat housing and tensioners are next on my to do list. I just want to drive this beautiful car.....
Thank you gentlemen for your responses. After a couple of days I have noticed that the temp only drops when the car is warm. For the first 5 minutes of driving it, the oil pressure light stays off. Once the car warms up it drops at idle.
I spoke to a retired Jag mechanic who told me I should be using 20w50 oil and the 5w30 I am using could very well be causing the issue. I just put the 5w30 in so I am hesitant to waste it if it's not very likely that's the problem. If I remember correctly, even the owners manual suggests 5w30.
Secondly, what is the easiest way to get to the back of the oil gauge? Does the wood trim piece pop out or is it screwed in?
Finally, does anyone have a picture of the sensor I should be looking for/checking?
Thank you again everyone who has taken the time to post in this thread. It is greatly appreciated.
I spoke to a retired Jag mechanic who told me I should be using 20w50 oil and the 5w30 I am using could very well be causing the issue. I just put the 5w30 in so I am hesitant to waste it if it's not very likely that's the problem. If I remember correctly, even the owners manual suggests 5w30.
Secondly, what is the easiest way to get to the back of the oil gauge? Does the wood trim piece pop out or is it screwed in?
Finally, does anyone have a picture of the sensor I should be looking for/checking?
Thank you again everyone who has taken the time to post in this thread. It is greatly appreciated.
Thank you gentlemen for your responses. After a couple of days I have noticed that the temp only drops when the car is warm. For the first 5 minutes of driving it, the oil pressure light stays off. Once the car warms up it drops at idle.
I spoke to a retired Jag mechanic who told me I should be using 20w50 oil and the 5w30 I am using could very well be causing the issue. I just put the 5w30 in so I am hesitant to waste it if it's not very likely that's the problem. If I remember correctly, even the owners manual suggests 5w30.
Secondly, what is the easiest way to get to the back of the oil gauge? Does the wood trim piece pop out or is it screwed in?
Finally, does anyone have a picture of the sensor I should be looking for/checking?
Thank you again everyone who has taken the time to post in this thread. It is greatly appreciated.
I spoke to a retired Jag mechanic who told me I should be using 20w50 oil and the 5w30 I am using could very well be causing the issue. I just put the 5w30 in so I am hesitant to waste it if it's not very likely that's the problem. If I remember correctly, even the owners manual suggests 5w30.
Secondly, what is the easiest way to get to the back of the oil gauge? Does the wood trim piece pop out or is it screwed in?
Finally, does anyone have a picture of the sensor I should be looking for/checking?
Thank you again everyone who has taken the time to post in this thread. It is greatly appreciated.
Search 'jaguar xk8 oil pressure switch' on google and a lot of aftermarket sources & a picture come up.
The gauge is a stepper motor driven from four signals from the instrument cluster computer. I think it is unlikely your problem is there.
Have the symptoms changed now?
Does the oil pressure on the gauge fall AND the oil pressure light come on when the engine's hot at tickover?
Does both the light go out and the pressure on the gauge go up when you rev up?
If both things change I'm afraid it's either the oil pump or your crankshaft bearings.
Does the oil pressure on the gauge fall AND the oil pressure light come on when the engine's hot at tickover?
Does both the light go out and the pressure on the gauge go up when you rev up?
If both things change I'm afraid it's either the oil pump or your crankshaft bearings.












