After replacing the shocks, upper mounts, sway bar end links, etc., and checking all the bushings very carefully I have tightened up the front end considerably. But....I still get the clickity clack when I go over sharp little bumps and those road dots. It doesn't seem as loud (can only hear it with the window or top down), but it's still annoying.

I already taped the center cat caps so they wouldn't rattle, but I'm wondering about those lugnuts. Is there a way to "test" tham before going to the trouble of replacing all of them?

 

All you have to do is 'wiggle' them to see that they are loose, most likely are.

Mine were making the ticking sound also, and were not very pretty. After looking around and having a wheel shop look for me the best deal I found was $8 each (x 20 = $160) for lug bolts! Careful! Jaguar lug bolts are unique.

I took one to the helpful hardware man and bought a 6" bolt that fit the threads and a nut to act as a lock nut. With that as a fixture polished each on a buffing wheel until they were reasonably presentable. Then sanded a 5/16" dowel to about the contour of the rounded cap and cut a 1/2" piece off. Dropping the dowel into the lug nut you are able to easily push the stainless steel cap off the nut. After cleaning the inside put it back on with JB WELD.

All is quite and they look much better than before. Cost about $2.

Heloise

 

Heloise-
That is a great idea! Just remember not to put the JB Weld on the cover with the locking lug bolt if you have that option.

-Martha

 

Adamesh has a direct replacement for the lug nuts without that cap, They are one piece and are much cheaper. I have not tried them but they look good. I have lost three of those caps last year and I will eventually get a set like this instead.
Replacement Wheel Nuts - Early Models

 

I'll check those out. I was thinking of trying a little test since I found that by tapping on the tops of each of the nuts with my finger I can hear a little click...maybe shoving something like popsickle sticks (broken to size, of course) into the gap between the nut and the hole, then driving over the road dots to see if i got the same sound.

I think that would be slightly easier that pulling them all out before I knew for sure. Maybe.

Well, I did pull one off and it is really loose. It's certainly noisy, but I don't know it it is loud enough to be the sound I'm hearing.

 

It's loud enough when you multiply that little sound times twenty !

At least on my car. I'll be doing Testpoint's fix within a couple of weeks.

 

Looking at Adamesh's replacement set I notice the threads start right at the top of the barrel, whereas the Jag ones start about 3/16" down in. Any problems there?

And, I see the washer is grooved all the way around which would prevent it from sitting in place while the nut turns down tight (the washer would also be turning on the wheel). Any issues with that?

 

That's a good replacement for these rare aftermarket RH 1/2" threads. I'd go with those if I were you. White Knight makes a one-piece lugnut that fits, model 5304, but its hard to find since you can't buy them directly, nor find them in any online store. I had to track down a White Knight supplier, which turned out to be Discount Tire. They ordered them for me.

 

Adamesh's nuts would cost me almost $80 and wait to be shipped from UK. As I was perusing the ridiculous listings on fleabay I did find these, which look interesting and almost the same IF they have the right dimensions. My question: what are the exact dimensions for all aspects of these Jagnuts?

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I did take one apart using Testpoint's method, only with 3 small nuts instead of a dowel. The cover will pull loose and come off apparently undamaged (except, maybe, for the crimping points that originally were to hold the cap tight). I would think that using the actual lug bolt/stud on the wheel would negate the need for the extra bolt, and would guarantee a perfect match in threads. My bolt did cut a little thread, but I had no problem refitting the basic nut and tightening it down to proper torque. With the hole through the top it certainly isn't pretty. I'm not sure i'll do the rest if I can get a good replacement at a good price because it is very time-consuming.

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these

 

So, the 1/2" RH nuts on the White Knight website are the only correct size, and not the 12mm RH (1.5) size? The threads are definitely more fine that other lug studs from what I can see. I'll call or drop by Discount Tire on Monday.

 

correct. Our wheels take a short mag-style shaft, no taper, w/ washer. These White Knight are an excellent fit, within tolerances which the lug openings are very tight with the lug shafts, non-hub centric I believe is the correct term.

 

Those do look good. Is this thread also known as 1/2" X 20?

 

Matt,

Are these the lug nuts you're using now? I know you've done a lot of searching (and some custom fabricating) on these in the past.

Thanks-

 

I was reminded that those White Knight lug nuts are 18.6mm in diameter, and on my car, when I received them, were too large by 0.7 mm. I believe having all my wheels refinished, and a couple of them having two coats of paint (they didn't match the color up correctly the first time), that difference in coating thickness could have made all the difference in the lug holes. So if you're considering these, check your lug openings and make sure they won't need shaved...which isn't a huge deal, just inconvenient to find someone to put it each lug nut on a lathe and turn it for 1mm of diameter.

 

The actual shaft going into the hole was too large?

 

Yes, that's what he's saying.

I PM'd Matt about this issue the other day...he says that the holes in the wheel need to be at least 18.6 mm to accomodate these specific White Knight lug nuts, model 5304.

Time to break out the micrometer.

 

as measured using digital calipers against a lugnut for a asteroid wheel

LUGNUTS

1/2 x 20

shank diameter 0.7025" (17.84 millimeters)
shank depth 0.4230"
washer thickness 0.1285"

 

Wow, your shank depth is even shorter than mine (oem revolvers) at approx. .55-.6"/14mm. Doesn't that mean the mounting surface of the wheel to the hub is very "thin"?

I measure my shaft width at .69"/18mm. I'm not finding alternatives that small....or short. These Toyota/Nissan nuts are very close at 14mm length and 18.5mm width. But will that .5mm keep them from sliding into the holes?
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Then, there's these that claim to be for early XK8's, and have the correct shaft width.....but are far too long in the shaft to seat: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330487306955...S:1123&vxp=mtr

 

I ran a little test today: took 1/2" strips of heavy cardboard, folded in half to appropriate thickness, and stuffed them between one side of each lug cap and the outer hole(s). That kept each cap from moving or making any noise at all.

Next was to drive around local streets hitting every strip of bots dots I could find...both left side and right. Yup....the rattly noise was still there, and most annoying on the double rows of dots. I also ran it over speed bumps in a local shopping center...no noise or creaking at all. So, it's only when the motion is sharp and quick.

BUT....I discovered something new. When I apply the brakes, whether softly or hard, the rattling goes away. Not slowly, it just flat stops. Hmmmmmmmmmm....that doesn't sound like a nut-related problem, or even a inner suspension problem. It sounds like a brake/hub-related problem. Maybe. I think.

So...what could be loose on the brake or hub assembly that would rattle when moving sharply, but then stop when the brake pads press on the rotors? Caliper pins? Not too likely, but worth checking. Caliper bolts? You'd think I would have lost the whole assemblies by now. Spindles?

I beg for ideas.