my thermostat tower reseal, wagers on how long it will last?
#1
my thermostat tower reseal, wagers on how long it will last?
On a scale of 1-10 I am a 2 when it comes to working with engines. I've lived with the smell of burning coolant (sweet smell) for the last six months. I was going to visit a carbon fiber shop so I thought I would take the jaguar plastic engine covers to them as an example.
once I removed them (breaking one plastic insert in the process) I noticed the bottom front seal on the thermostat tower was warped.
I could see the coolant puddling under it, and when i nugged the radiator hose it would cause the seal to weep Rapidly. I went and showed it to a local mechanic who said I just needed to try using a rubberized sealant called "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. http://i56.tinypic.com/b5qs13.jpg
So I went about resealing it...
First off, I dont even know where the coolant plug is, and I was wary of having to figure out how to burp the system. My quick solution was to stick some vinyl hose (like a fridge water line) deep inside the overflow reservoir (1ft) and siphon all the coolant into a bucket.
Once it was drained I backed out the t-stat house bolts only to realize that I had ruined the built in brass thread inserts.
sorry for the large image
Under arrow B is the brass inserts. I obviously couldn't reuse them as they would not bite anymore.
I kept Hose (arrow C) pulled towars the radiator at all times to prevent it from dumpling the remaining coolant out.
Arrow A, is the bolts I elected to use. they are M6 1.0 pitch by 30mm long.
The weeping was coming from gap D. where the housing had warped a bit.
Once I had the bottom-front flange removed I put the permatex sealant around it, making channels running alongside where the screws would go.
I carefully snuck the part back into place and and set the bolts lossely to keep any movement from smearing my rubber sealant. Then I tightened them down as tight as I felt was safe. Maybe 20lbs, I dunno; don't own a torque wrench. I reset the coolant hose with a stainless clamp, and refilled with new coolant.
So far I have run the engine maybe 2hrs, and 50 miles. It did not hiccup (from not bleeding the airout)
Anyone care to wager how long this seal might last? the t-stat o ring is a bit stretched, but im not seeing/smelling any coolant puddles on the block like i had before.
once I removed them (breaking one plastic insert in the process) I noticed the bottom front seal on the thermostat tower was warped.
I could see the coolant puddling under it, and when i nugged the radiator hose it would cause the seal to weep Rapidly. I went and showed it to a local mechanic who said I just needed to try using a rubberized sealant called "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. http://i56.tinypic.com/b5qs13.jpg
So I went about resealing it...
First off, I dont even know where the coolant plug is, and I was wary of having to figure out how to burp the system. My quick solution was to stick some vinyl hose (like a fridge water line) deep inside the overflow reservoir (1ft) and siphon all the coolant into a bucket.
Once it was drained I backed out the t-stat house bolts only to realize that I had ruined the built in brass thread inserts.
sorry for the large image
Under arrow B is the brass inserts. I obviously couldn't reuse them as they would not bite anymore.
I kept Hose (arrow C) pulled towars the radiator at all times to prevent it from dumpling the remaining coolant out.
Arrow A, is the bolts I elected to use. they are M6 1.0 pitch by 30mm long.
The weeping was coming from gap D. where the housing had warped a bit.
Once I had the bottom-front flange removed I put the permatex sealant around it, making channels running alongside where the screws would go.
I carefully snuck the part back into place and and set the bolts lossely to keep any movement from smearing my rubber sealant. Then I tightened them down as tight as I felt was safe. Maybe 20lbs, I dunno; don't own a torque wrench. I reset the coolant hose with a stainless clamp, and refilled with new coolant.
So far I have run the engine maybe 2hrs, and 50 miles. It did not hiccup (from not bleeding the airout)
Anyone care to wager how long this seal might last? the t-stat o ring is a bit stretched, but im not seeing/smelling any coolant puddles on the block like i had before.
Last edited by Cadillac; 11-11-2010 at 04:12 AM.
#3
#4
yes, i've seen a million people say "replace it with the aluminum one."
but I didn't want to go that deep into fixing it.
Heck, i don't even know how to drain the coolant.
My leak really was only isolated to the front coolant inlet
(the one that secures the thermostat.)
I have a warranty, that already bought this plastic house.
so rather than pay 100$, and have several days without the car,
it looks like my fix worked for 10$
but I didn't want to go that deep into fixing it.
Heck, i don't even know how to drain the coolant.
My leak really was only isolated to the front coolant inlet
(the one that secures the thermostat.)
I have a warranty, that already bought this plastic house.
so rather than pay 100$, and have several days without the car,
it looks like my fix worked for 10$
#6
Only $70 for the aluminum kit, includes the t-stat and all 0-rings, just in case the leak doesn't hold or a crack forms somewhere not repairable.
we have a link in the FAQ thread at the top of this subsection, it has a description on how to properly drain and refill your coolant system. Lots of other good DIY articles there too...while your looking for other tasks to perform.
we have a link in the FAQ thread at the top of this subsection, it has a description on how to properly drain and refill your coolant system. Lots of other good DIY articles there too...while your looking for other tasks to perform.
#8
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