St. Stephen
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Hello once again folks
I have searched high and low without any joy to find the torque settings for the engine oil cooler pipes. I need the settings for the engine oil cooler feed hose and the engine oil return hose please and thank you, 1996, xk8 coupe. Still having no luck getting JTIS to work for me so I'm scouring the web trying to piece bits of information from everywhere.
Kind Regards
S. Degenkolb
I have searched high and low without any joy to find the torque settings for the engine oil cooler pipes. I need the settings for the engine oil cooler feed hose and the engine oil return hose please and thank you, 1996, xk8 coupe. Still having no luck getting JTIS to work for me so I'm scouring the web trying to piece bits of information from everywhere.
Kind Regards
S. Degenkolb
JayJagJay
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Quote:
I have searched high and low without any joy to find the torque settings for the engine oil cooler pipes. I need the settings for the engine oil cooler feed hose and the engine oil return hose please and thank you, 1996, xk8 coupe. Still having no luck getting JTIS to work for me so I'm scouring the web trying to piece bits of information from everywhere.
Kind Regards
S. Degenkolb
I think (from memory) there is a clamp style pressure fitting using a separate bolt where the hoses meet at the engine and pump at the front just under the timing chain cover plate and above the front of the oil pan - tighten it down,,, then, a couple of connector fittings to connect sections of hose together (or are they one piece?), then, where the hoses actually connect to the cooler out front... All from memory...Originally Posted by St. Stephen
Hello once again folksI have searched high and low without any joy to find the torque settings for the engine oil cooler pipes. I need the settings for the engine oil cooler feed hose and the engine oil return hose please and thank you, 1996, xk8 coupe. Still having no luck getting JTIS to work for me so I'm scouring the web trying to piece bits of information from everywhere.
Kind Regards
S. Degenkolb
Brother, just tighten them things down and keep it moving... The super precise and machined (aluminum I think) faces and connection points do most of the work (sealing), the bolt downs are just a thing to keep it all together... You'll feel when they are tight, it's super flush metal to metal faces on each end and tight will be,,, tight
michaelh
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Hi Stephen,
Good move to replace these motor-killers.
The only torque figure I can find in either JTIS or the workshop manual is for the clamp bolt that holds both hoses to the front of the motor:- 18-24Nm.
The connections at each end of the oil cooler pipes look similar to the A/C plumbing and IMO only need to be nipped up - I'd suggest around 8-10Nm max.
As Jay says, the seal is from the 'O' rings rather than the tightness of the clamping bolts.
Jtis can be a pain to get working on newer computers. You can find the workshop manuals as downloads in the stickies above. Well worth grabbing these.
Separately, did you have any joy in establishing whether your motor is original or not?
Good move to replace these motor-killers.
The only torque figure I can find in either JTIS or the workshop manual is for the clamp bolt that holds both hoses to the front of the motor:- 18-24Nm.
The connections at each end of the oil cooler pipes look similar to the A/C plumbing and IMO only need to be nipped up - I'd suggest around 8-10Nm max.
As Jay says, the seal is from the 'O' rings rather than the tightness of the clamping bolts.
Jtis can be a pain to get working on newer computers. You can find the workshop manuals as downloads in the stickies above. Well worth grabbing these.
Separately, did you have any joy in establishing whether your motor is original or not?
St. Stephen
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Thank you gentlemen for your help and advice. As it goes I have come to the conclusion it was a replacement engine simply from the tell tale signs of paint flaking off. The cam chain guides were of the origianl Jaguar type ( 1 solid piece ) and were cracked in places but the tensioners were fine although a bit sticky and worn, again pointing to replacments at some point as had they been from year 1996 the tensioners no doubt would be cracked too. To that end I didn't fancy paying £50.00 for the Heritage people to confirm what I suspect.
Thanks again gents.
Thanks again gents.




