Hello all,

I signed up here for my father since he is not really forum-savvy, and we need some help with his 2000 xk8.

He bought the Jag used about two years ago from a ford dealer, and it has driven fine for the most part. We did have it in last year becasue the main crank pulley had become loose and was rattling back and forth while spinning.... but that has been fixed.

The newer issue is this: (I have searched prior to making this thread)

He gets the same check engine lights over and over.

p0300 Random Misfire Detected
po301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected
po302 Cylinder 2 misfire detected
po203 Cylinder 3 misfire detected
po304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected
po305 Cylinder 5 misfire detected
po306 Cylinder 6 misfire detected
po307 Cylinder 7 misfire detected
po308 Cylinder 8 misfire detected

p1316 Manufacturer Control Ignition System or Misfire
p0174 P0174: System too lean (Bank 2)
p1111 Drive cycles completed, system ready
p1000 Drive cucles not completed, system not ready

I am able to "delete" all the CELs with my OBDII reader, besides the p1000 and p1111, which seem to delete and come right back, or not delete at all and remain constant. (edit: found out those are jag-specfic, and OK)

Also, the "Engine Coolant Low" or coolant level low, whatever the message is, comes up on the dash and will not go away, even after filing the coolant tank (coolant level stays reletively the same in the actual tank)

Also, the cooling fans seem to run whenever the car is on, even with AC off.

The rear suspensions makes kind of a "jingling" metallic noise whenever you go over small bumps. Struts?

So yeah, those are the general issues with the car. if anybody can help in any way, it would be amazing. I have been searching around and will continue to search but have not found any definitive answers.

Thanks!
p.s. I will be searching while this thread is being answered...no please no "use the search bar" as the first answer...thanks

 

20+ views and nobody knows? lmao

 

Welcome to the forum! You might have gotten more response if posted on the XK8/R page.

Here is the JTIS OBDII code diagnostic page for P1316. Appears to be mostly fuel related. Check out the FAQ sticky on the P1316 forum to lots of answers without searches. Run some of those issues and let us know what it looks like.

 

True, my bad. I figured the tech forum would be sufficient haha....
Let me check out that page and see if any of it helps. Thanks.

 

Actually, it says I cannot access that page due to restrictions?

 

Post count, see my signature Jbaker.

Wow, all the misfire codes, sounds system wide...probably either air/fuel mixture issues to get all cylinders to misfire. However, if it TRULY is misfiring on all cylinders, surely the idle and engine runs really rough...does it? I think the P1316 will address those other codes as secondary to this one.

As for the rear suspension, i've had only one issue with noise back there. It was a bad lower shock bushing. Could only diagnose by raising the rear end, loading the suspension (by resting a jackstand under it and lowering vehicle weight partly onto it) and hit 'up' onto the bottom of the shock mount...it rattled. Cheapest fix was to swap the shock out, not the bushing. I've got a video w/sound in the xk8 area, you can always see if the noise matches Dad's car.

Top mounts on the rear are rare, but possible also.

 

yeah the Start-up and beginning idle are a bit rough, but it gets OK after a little bit. The driving seems to be sluggish compared to when we first got it (after the crank pulley repair, that is)
Can somebody email me that file? jeb1121@aol.com
I also searched around and discovered it may be the spark plugs and ignition coils?

Also, my mother has been driving it lately and I think she may be part of the reason.... she may be putting cheaper, lower octane gas into the car. She did not admit to it, but I think that may be part of it. What do you guys think?


As for the suspension, i figured it was the bushings or the strut, since on my infiniti the rear bushings/struts (so ive been told) make the same noise over similar types of bumps.

 

Just read a similar complaint and the problem was a bad cannister purge valve, you might get it checked out.

 

While there is certainly 'bad gas' out there, these cars run just fine on '87 octane.

 

Bad gas??? Naw! Seriously?

I thought it was going to ruin my vacation.

 

87 octane from Quickie Stop? That has got to be worse than a Shell/Texaco/Mobil/Exxon 87 octane. Though the rough idling and misfiring is unrelated, i'd still put a can of the BG44 into the next fuel fillup. All the coils and plugs surely can't be that bad. Perhaps air leak from the air cleaner, check the air pipe leading from there to the throttlebody, make sure the rubber sleeve from the air pipe that clamps to the throttle body is not damaged or loose. Lots of good things to check for. A slueth's dream.

 

Certainly bad gas could be the cause of your problem and the idea that regular gas has been used recently I would begin by filling the car with good hi-test gas and insert a can of treatment BG 44K is what I use. Document your OBD codes and clear them and then drive the car and see what comes up. This car has a series of TSB’s that you need to see if they were complied with and you should be able to get that info from any dealership upon your request.

As for the P1111 & P1000 you are correct they are system check codes.

The engine coolant you may need to check my page http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairCoolantTank.htm

The suspension making noise you may want to check your universal joints you have 2 on each axle. Jack the car up and see if you have vertical movement of the wheel. And yes it could be shock mounts.

 

hey guys, thanks for the help.
I guess first and foremost I should fill it up with 93 and add the BG44..... question about that: isn't that the same hting as seafiam and those products? or do you reccomend bg44k over those?
Also, we might as well get the spark plugs and ignition coils looked at, because why not replace them, right? (60k ish on the car)
I'll also go through and check for any air leaks, and maybe replace the air filter.

is there an ECU reset/relearn procedure on these cars? I know on my infiniti you can reset the ECU, so it basically "relearns", and sometimes after a ba tank of gas or oil change is helps. (I reset mine once a month)

As for the suspension, I can jack it up and check for movement. However, did youy mean vertical or horizontal? wouldnt the wheels move vertically anyway?\

Maybe this weekend we'll take a shot at cleaning the coolant float.
thanks again.

 

no edit for posts? I look like I can't spell haha

 

BG 44K is the same as the seafoam, 44K is my preference.

I would reset all the codes and see what comes up unless of course you want to change the plugs and coils.

As for the reset, I was never fond of doing that. I guess it is a computer thing! You can do this by removing one of the battery terminals and then reinstalling after a few moments.

 

Yikes, if you check the price of coils...you'll reconsider quickly. Plugs are an economical maintenance item (NGK Iridium IX is my preferred plug) but I would wait on the coils until you get a misfire due to one going bad.

Unless you get a oddly behaving throttle after the plug change and new fuel w/ treatment, don't worry about a hard reset. the computer will relearn pretty quickly with the new diet.

Also, do some browsing of the FAQ thread in this forum, there's ton of good information and DIY articles (if you get your post count up to 10, you can see them). Your 4.0 engine likes to get air leaks, foul up the mass air flow sensor, throttle body, and the part load breather. All of these can be checked and cleaned following some documents created by our members and available to the group.

 

update....car is still running strong and those codes have not come up for a while.....temperamental!

we're actually snooping around for another older XJ body so Ill be active on the forums again...maybe another XJR (last one met a patch of ice and was introduced to a concrete divider...)

 

I just remembered we are actually having another issue. The float in the coolant tank is broken so the dash keeps saying that the coolant level is low...we have looked into replacing the float and what not but it's frustrating to say the least...

 

If its about keeping the budget small, you can try to repair or replace the sensor itself. If you can afford $175, the entire expansion tank, with new cap and sensor can be purchased online...plus, you deduct frustration from the equation.

 

That price isn't the issue, we couldnt find the specific problem area and even after cleaning the sensor it still read it low...

can you link me to where it would be avail? Thanks.