I purchased a 2000 XK8 in Naples Florida last November and just brought it to Canada. I have no cabin heat.

I have removed the electric pump, diverter valve and both are fine on tghe bench, heater core was plugged but that is now clear. The control panel has no codes and all electric power goes to valve and pump as it should.

The hose from the back of the engine on the passenger side has almost no water coming out, if I rev the ngine I get a little dribble. This hose goes to the diverter valve, then the pump. No water getting to the pump.

Has anyone got any ideas?

I have bled the system and removed the cap on top of the thermostat and topped up there as well. I am stumped.

 

I should ad, I can push water with a hose by backfeeding the hose at the diverter valve, or the other way by forcing water in the bleed port at the thermostat housing, but when I run the engine, no water comes out.

 

Has the engine's water pump lost it's vanes ???

Hope this helps ,

Nik

 

There are 2 mechanical one-way valves in the system. They both are inline with hoses connected to the diverter valve. Make sure that the arrows embossed on both these valves point TOWARDS the diverter valve.

If that is OK, remove those inline valves and check that they are not clogged with debris from flushing the heater core.

 

The one way valves are in correctly and I can move water from a hose thru the lines.

Don't think the water pump is a problem since I just drove it 1200 miles and the temperature is bang on.

But thanks guys keep it up.

 

Not necessarily...the computer controlled temp. gauge lies until the temperature reaches about 235-240 degrees. See https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-gauge-62813/

Try monitoring the temperature with an OBDII reader to see what it really is.

 

Well its working now. I suspect the problem was a plugged core and air lock. The rest was me not thinking kiss, and took too much apart. The good news is I now have an intimita knowledge of the heater cooling system for next time.

Thanks

 

Based on other posts, folks have said that getting to the electric pump is one heck of a job. Understand that pump is right above the transmission---how tough is it to pull?
Thanks,

 

I removed the header tank and the divert valve, leaving the valve bracket, to do this, undo the isolation mount nuts, tip the bracket forward to access the divert valve mount bolts. I used a tool to unclamp the hoses and a nose picker to pry off the hoses. Then I went under the car to remove the one lower nut on the lower isolation bracket, then removed the pump with the bracket. The pump had a stuck brush, so I cleaned the armature and brushes, flushed the core and put it back reversing above process. I had to replace four of the isolation bushings, they twisted apart, found some at a local hardware supplie (spaeneur) for $ 10.oo each.

I bet it took me four hours but if I had to do it again it would be half that, now that I know how to do it.