Yesterday I pulled up to a stop sign and when I went to go it was as if I still had the brake pushed in. Didn't slip or rev high just felt quite a bit of drag. Put it in reverse which was fine then back to drive and went. It went away and hasn't returned. No fault code nor restricted performance. Sent an email to a fairly local indie jag shop to see about his thoughts for doing a fluid change (which fluid he'd use, etc.) and has thoughts on the tensioners as I'm having my third and hopefully final surgery from my bike accident on Thurs and know I won't be in any shape to do much for a few months. Thoughts on this oddity?

 

It could be low fluid. How many miles? Then again, it might just be a Jaguar.

 

84k, definately not a fan of the zf tranny to begin with, the mercedes tranny in the r is light years smoother and more refined.

 

Well I figured out what the brake feeling was, it was temp. going into fail safe mode and starting out in a higher gear. Seems today it was ready to throw a code for it which is P1734. It also is now showing a stabilty control fault and abs light. I guess this one is going to make up for the dead on reliablity I've gotten on the other two. Ideas? I think I'll do a hard reset tonight and see what that does.

 

Well the first choice for P1734 is trans fluid low, however combined with the other faults I'd guess it is a fault in whichever wheel ABS sensor the car uses to get road speed from.
I believe that's the lh rear one.

 

With all those faults I would suspect the battery. Just have it load tested to be sure.

 

Always worth doing - the P1734's an unusual 'battery' one though.

 

Cleaned the wheel sensors today. Amazed how easy it was to get them out. They were dirty but not overly so. Stability Fail and ABS still on, even after 5 times trying to hard reset it off. Cleared the p code yesterday and it hasn't come back yet. Ordered the socket for the abs module today but I guess I should work on getting the none p codes read unless someone else has a better suggestion.

 

You may have a faulty ABS module - I'm sure you can find lots of info on fixing that but a diagnosis would be useful to avoid chasing shadows.
Let us know what you find.

 

Still waiting for my new code reader to arrive. It has maybe 5 or so times in a week upon coming to a stop "slight shutter" then starts out in 4th. Turning the car of and back on results it it starting and running just fine. Tranny functions mostly fine aside from this, no delays or issues up/downshifting any other time. Stability control fail still on but has gone out a few times on start up only to come back once she starts rolling a bit.

 

Finally got the codes pulled and are as follows. Now aside from the ABS computer where do I go from here. Do you think the ABS can cause the tranny oddity?

C1095 (will pull the computer and see about soldering it)

Instrument panel stuff
B1317, U1261, B1238

Transmission
P1731, P1798, P1799, P1734

 

A lot of what you're dealing with is similar to the problem I had when my cruise control didn't work. It was due to lack of communication in the CAN bus. I disconnected every plug from the instrument cluster through the transmission switches, body module transmission module, etc, and cleaned them with electrical connector cleaner. Also, check the list of module numbers near the spare tire to be sure they match what is in the car. If someone swapped out the TCM, for example, it might not communicate on the CAN.

 

Took the abs module apart tonight. Solder looked just fine on the two power pins but added a bit. Put back together, and didn't even make it around the block before the light came back on again, c1095. What do I look at next? Will verify the computers are correct tomorrow but pretty sure they are. Its pathetic when a 28 year old TVR is more reliable.

Battery is 7 years old and sitting at 12.58. My 03 xr is new and sitting at 13.05. Think that's enough difference to cause these issues?

 

Have you checked the ABS pump motor fuses? I think they are #16 and 18 in the driver side (US) engine compartment fusebox.

 

Yes checked those early on, both just fine. Light does occasionally go out so i trust they're good w/ just a visual.

 

I would try some contact cleaner on all the ABS connector as well as the two-pin motor connector contacts.

You might also want to try unplugging the ABS pump motor connector and applying 12v directly to make sure it is running freely.

 

Thought about the 12v on the pump, always use electric cleaner when I take connectors apart. Will also see what happens sensorwise when I drive today if I can figure out the autoenginuity on that.

 

When I soldered the pins on my ABS I still had an occasional fault. Inspecting the joints more closely, I found that the ring at the base of the pins did not wet properly, so I used a touch of flux to get the solder to flow, then carefully removed traces of flux with a wet Q tip

 

So yes the pump does work. Tried hooking up the auto enginuity to check wheel speed etc and it doesn't give me that option or anything related vehicle speed or even the abs module or pump. I could have sworn I saw it there before but that might have been a demo version.

Oh and looking for a new pump it seems most yards say that a pump without trac has 5 connectors for hyrdro. on top, one with has 6, is that right? Part number on my module is the lja2210BH. What would the dif. for stability control and traction control be.

Also, speed sensors measured at the pins connecting to the ABS mod are all 2.11 ohms give or take so I'm assuming they're okay as would the wiring be okay right (barring a connection that bounces itself out of ohm spec)

 

Unfortunately, I am beginning to relate to your problem. My module showed error codes for a wheel speed sensor which I couldn't erase using my Autoenginuity, and my cruise control was not working. I sent it to a repair facility and when returned there were no codes, so I thought everything was good, although the cruise control quit shortly after. A couple of weeks later I ran another scan and the ABS module was not found. So I figured the repair was not only not successful, but the module was not communicating.

I bought another module from a wrecking yard, and of course it had a C1095. The supplier told me to keep the module and refunded the purchase price. I have now repaired that module and everything is finally working.

If autoenginuity does not see the ABS module, there is probably a communication problem in the CAN bus. It may be the module itself or a connector.

Now as to the module. I have the same model # and there are six solenoids, meaning no traction control, which requires nine. Also, if the button on the dash is ASC OFF, you do not have traction control. When I bought my replacement module there was another one available in Jacksonville Beach for about $350, it might still be there. Beware the guys in Chicago area asking $1000 plus.

If we were closer I would get with you and swap to see if the problem is fixed.