Time for my first oil change for my 2001 xk8. Just picked up 10 quarts of 5-30 Mobile one synthetic oil. Gonna pick up the filter tomorrow. Any thoughts?

 

I think that's a fine choice. I changed my oil yesterday and that's what I used.

I got my Mobile One from Walmart in 5 quart jugs. It was $25 per jug. How much did you pay? I don't understand some peoples' reluctance to spend a few dollars more for synthetic fluid.

 

By the way, my oil change was a disaster. I have one of those fancy oil buckets to catch the oil. It is its own jug, so when you're done the oil is contained and it won't spill. Unfortunately I forgot to unscrew the little plug that allows the oil to drain down into the body of the jug. A few seconds after pulling the plug in the oil pan I looked over and the oil was overflowing the top of the catch pan. I got oil all over the garage floor.

 

I've had three Jag mechanics at three separate shops, two of whom have been doing Jags for over 20 years tell me that it's pointless, especially if you're changing oil every 3k miles. *shrug*

 

What's pointless is changing oil every 3000 miles. That's a marketing gimmick that Jiffy Lube invented. I've never seen an owner's manual that says to change the oil every 3000 miles. Jiffy Lube started putting those little stickers in the windshield and realized they could trick gullible people into needlessly changing their oil more frequently than necessary. The owner's manual says to do it every 10,000 miles. The owner's manual also says to use synthetic oil. I'll trust the engineers on this one.

 

3000 mile oil changes existed before Jiffy Lube came along.

Extended drain intervals are not the invention of engineers, but rather engineers being trumped by management and marketing types wanting to offer free scheduled service and to appeal to those wanting drive it until it drops ownership styles.

Additionally, it is now known that synthetics are more prone to sludge buildup due to the absence of aromatics. Conventional oil does much better at keeping an engine clean.

 

Umm... where? Hate to say you're making up stories, but there isn't a single mention of synthetic oil in any of my manuals / literature that I've seen.

 

I caught a sale at Pepboy's for 10 quarts of Mobile one synthetic for $60.

 

Just reminding everyone of the standing rule around here on the conventional vs synthetic AND the oil change interval debate.

 

LOL!

The only thing that really matters is that you change your oil at regular intervals. As long as you're happy with it there shouldn't be any issues.

 

Are you accusing me of pulling an Obama?



And I was mistaken. It says synthetic oil MAY be used, not MUST be used. So if conventional oil is good for 10,000 miles in my Jag, then the synthetic stuff must be good for at least 15,000, just like it says on the bottle. I'm going to continue to change my oil at 10,000 mile intervals, however.

 

+1 re: be happy (as long as you're not abusing your machinery - see next.)

+1 re: 3k oil changes, using 'conventional' oil.

-1 re: 3k changes = marketing gimmick for 'conventional' oil.

Electronic igniton, injection and engine management has done more for engine longevity than any hooptie-dooptie oil or additives. However.... oil does have a finite life when it comes to lubricity and 'conventional' oil will begin showing it's age between 3-4k miles. Call this the "Conventional Oil Plus Conventional Wisdom Juxtaposition."

The price gap between full-synth, semi-synth and 'conventional' has been closing and, as the good reverend says (in so many words), it's a small price to pay for added comfort and/or piece of mind. Hey, if you're willing to pay for it and nothing is being hurt, why not?

 

I wouldn't know how to respond to that without insulting someone I'm sure. haha

My manual says nothing... it doesn't even imply that you should use it. As long as you perform regular maintenance at the interval you're comfortable with and are happy with it is all that matters.

 

Walmart was selling Castrol Syntec for $21 for 5 quarts the other day. that's only $4.20 per quart! I took a pic. The Mobile One was only $24 for 5 quarts.

 

Modern engine oil has come a long way since the 3000 change interval days. As have the engines, bearings and sealing technologies. Using a good conventional oil and a good filter on a modern engine I wouldn't hesitate to change at 5000 miles. Also, the oil itself does not break down. It gets dirty and the additive package breaks down.

Synthetic oil can go even further. However, I would use oil analysis prior to going the full interval some manufactures of oil recommend, such as Amsoil. Synthetic does not build up sludge as someone suggested. As far as sludge build up is concerned it is due to low quality oil or just no frequent oil changes. In some cases it is also attributed to the engine's oiling/drain back design itself.

 

I have been sticking with conventional oil and changing every 5,000 mi. for all of my cars for many years. Some cars seem to make the oil turn darker faster than others. I prefer to have the oil and filter changed before the oil is too dark to see through. Never had an oil analysis on any of my cars, so not sure why it gets darker.

 

now you're just making words up why not lubricationability, or slipperyness?

 

That's a good deal Sam. Wish I had seen that before I went to Pepboys. Walmart next time for sure.

 

Oil is supposed to get darker. That means it is doing its job. The oil has additives in it that clean the carbon from the engine. As long as the carbon is suspended in the oil it can't do any damage. The more carbon the oil absorbs the darker it gets. If it wasn't getting darker then the carbon would be sticking to the engine parts and creating sludge. So let's say you try out two different oils. Oil "A" turns black by 2000 miles and oil "B" is still relatively clear at 5000 miles. Most people would assume that oil "B" was better because it is lasting longer. Actually, oil "A" is doing a better job of cleaning the engine. That doesn't necessarily mean that "A" is a better oil, there are a lot of other factors to be considered. It just means that "B" is not as effective at removing carbon from the engine.

 

Really? Do you have a source? I just did a search and couldn't find anything to support that statement. If aromatics are good, then just add a cup or two of diesel fuel to your oil when you change it.

By the way, I'm not suggesting that anyone do that in real life. Formula 409 does a great job of removing dirt, but I wouldn't suggest putting it in your gas tank to clean the injectors. The engineers who create the oil put in detergents and additives to take care of sludge.