I would do the Restore first before installing a road draft tube. The tube will only alleviate the symptoms, not attack the cause.
Plus the tube may upset the MAF, will cause a lot of pollution and may fail vehicle inspection.

Bad luck! You must have one of the few dodgy Nikasil engines still left running.

 

No do not run a vented tube, it is a SEALED crankcase and you will basicly create a vacuum leak. this is not as much an issue on yours, but the later V8 like to 4.2 are calibrated closed and improves ring seal. Just take off the oil fill cap off a 4.2 and watch how crappy it runs..If after you do all this, you can buy a oil seperator( I have one on my crankcase vacuum system on the 580 in my racecar) its packed with stainless steel and you would have to make line to fit it inline. The steel wool will trap and collect the oil from the vapor. theres a petcock in the bottom to drain, or you could make a permanent line to the oil pan say though a modifyed dipstick tube like Jgauar did on the 95-97xj6 engines for the same issue to "FIX" the oil vapor issue buildup so heavy on the throttle body it was sealing the throttles stuck closed

 

Good one Brutal - I've "unsealed" a few TB valves on AJ16s, my own included. Starts with a gas pedal that takes an initial force to break loose, eventually you look like a cowboy off of stoplights.

 

Yup, always wondered why it did that! Very sensitive.

 

Be sure to clean the part load breather on the LH cam cover. Also make sure that the breather hose is clear and not blocked. A long shot but it might solve the problem.

 

In the first picture ... is this the breather port that i need to make sure to clean? Is there a trick to removal or just straight up??

In the second... Looks like i should have something plugged in here or I could have a vac leak here???

I will have to tell you guys that late last night i did do the blow by tube out the bottom of the car.. sorry! But, I am taking that back out when I get the oil changed and my ENGINE RESTORER in there. I thank you again for the help!

 

Part Load breather . . . that's it!

Careful . . . the 10 year old plastic is a little brittle. I broke mine trying to clean the little orifice. Use a 'less that 1/8" 'drill bit to clean the orifice.

Makes a difference.

The other picture is of the coolant overflow reservoir. The 'capped' fitting is for when you break the primary one.

 

Okay.. now you have me worried... how does it remove... twist off?? or just pull up straight?

 

Yes. Twist and pull.

 

If you mean the little ring around the base of the breather next to the metal valve cover then yes.. it WAS brittle!! It just crumbled one side while i was twisting. Now... can i get a replacement at O'Rielly?? Or am i screwed? I still have not got the thing of either. I twist the top part but can not move the inner piece that is seated into that plastic ring.

 

Screwed

 

Great! I got the tube off now... but lost a 1/8 of that plastic ring at the bottom. I stuck a tiny screwdriver in there and it is clogged. How deep to a clean that out?

 

Quarter inch or less. The thickness of the valve cover.

 

So, I can't buy these anymore??? Do they have a solid bottom? My screwdriver would not go through very far.

 

The reason that a drill bit is suggested is that the deposits are hard and not subject to pushing out of the way. Drill out the opening.

I used a piece of 'hobby' (ACE Hardware) thin wall brass tubing and some JB Weld to put mine back together.

The idea being that the interior pressure be directed through the tube to the throttle body.

Having fun yet?

 

Nope NO FUN here! But let me say thanks for the help and hanging here with me... BUT.I think i pushed to hard ... and my drill brought up plastic.. i think. I took my small tech screwdriver and now i have a hole in the bottom. I am checking now if it goes all the way thru or i caught it in time.

 

yep... it goes thru now.. fantastic!

 

So where do i get another Par-Load Breather or fix the hole it now has in the bottom?

 

The part load breather hose is available at Autohaus az for $16. Not much more at the dealer? Tie the aft end of the new hose to the forward end of the old one and pull it through, underneath the intake manifold. It will be obvious if you look at the old one's position.
Those connectors are hard to get off! There is a dedicated Norma tool to get them off but I have not seen it.

 

My hose if fine.. it is that part that is setting on the valve cover. When trying to clean it out I pocked a hole thru the unit. Now, i am not sure what that will do but i know it is not good. I just want to replace that unit in the valve cover.