P1108
P1647
P1111

Using my new torque program these are the first things I found for my check light.

 

P1108 MAP SENSOR SENSE CIRCUIT HIGH VOLT. MAP FAILURE

P1647 ECM H02 SENSOR CONTROL MALFUNCTION. BANK 2 UPSTREAM 2/1 ECM FAILURE

p1111 SYS CHECKS, normal code I assume this one is, always there or gone when nothing is throwing a code?

So what do the first two mean???

 

Is my P1647 the sensor up front on the drivers side?

 

I'm confused, help. Try to google it getting conflicting info.

 

P1108 turned out to be the connection to the MAP was not pushed in/snapped in place. That code is gone.

I am assuming bank 2 upstream is the one directly under the resivor tank??? I wonder is spilled antifreeze onto the device could have messed it up. In my travels replacing hoses, octopus hose, tank off and on I have let fluids hit that, if that is the right one based on the code.

 

Which 02 is bank 2???????????????????????? drivers or Pass?

 

This should help

Link. http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/SDS002_V8_cylinder_numbering.pdf

 

well I replaced the o2, cleared code and it went away during my 20 minutes of city/hwy driving. Fired it up this morning and check light again. Gonna assume it is the same code as I have had no others. I guess I will switch the left and right and see if the code changes to the other side.
I have the correct part, bought a bosch part, same blue/black/white wires located just like the orig.
I will run the torg app on it and see if the code is the same which I suspect will be.
If so where do I go from here???

 

could my issue be BEFORE the sensor? If so it is on the left side only. What is happening on the LEFT side that could have the sensor throwing a code? I know I have one fuel injector connector on drivers side of motor that the snap to hold it on is gone but it is staying on the injector with out it and I am getting NO other codes for a miss or anything.

 

Get the code first.

 

I will bet your next check it will be the P1647 again. That is the only code I have had on the car since the check light came on. Makes me mad is that I had my Torque App adapter to put on the car put put it up in the garage before i left thinking I had the issue licked or else i would have the code. that said I am confident it is that damn thing. We will find out tonight.
The wire from it that goes to another and plugs into it, that wire from there does where? Gould I have done something when I was working on the octopus hose?
This car had no check light until after I washed the motor putting water on it (i do all my other cars and they run fine never have check lights) but it cleared away. then it seems a few days this light came on and for this code. I figured the rad fluid that got on it also when changes hoses may have done something but I have cleaned the connection for it.
I wonder why it did not come one last night after i cleared the code while driving via torque app. It never came on for about 20 min. Go home and restarted it a few times and no light. today it is on right away. if it is the sensor still, could the heater part of it be a problem, a wire messed up somewhere???
What else could cause it to code for this sensor.

 

You said you washed the engine compartment, Knock Sensors and water are not compatible. Check the codes again before you begin any troubleshooting you may have another problem.

 

checked codes again, I have the P1647 and P1000. I never had any other codes then one for TPS or the like which was a disconnected plug I over looked after I put the TB back on the car.
BUUUUT I just found this issue. You know the o2 sensor then the wire off of it with the plug at on the other end. Well that plugs into a connector that goes off into the wiring harness. On THAT plug there was a BROWN colored wire pulled out of it. have to assume that is the issue. Not sure how to fix it because inside the opening that the wires go into there is some type if gel or silicon that the wires are in. I don't see how I can push the wire back into it though I tried then drove it on the HWY with no check light, the hole appears to have closed up with no wire in it now???????? I suspect this is my issue? I did clear the codes and while I had no check light the torque app was showing the errors codes and PENDING not CURRENT fault. I stopped at gas station and pulled the brown wire back out and the check light came on with in a min or so. So maybe I was able to get the wire into the hole and made a connection because i drove the car for 15 min with no check light on the HWY though I was getting the PENDING P1647 and P1000 codes (no check light). I could never erase them all together.

 

I have to assume this loose wire is my issue? How the hell do I deal with it?
The P1000 also, it only shows as a PENDING fault, when does that go away?

 

P1000 will go away after a few good driving cycles and will be replaced by P1111 to say that all is well.

Irrespective, P1000 and p1111 are not faults.

 

What makes up a DRIVE CYCLE?? Good or bad???

 

First clear/repair the faults you have now. Then take the car for a drive 3 or 4 times utilising different driving conditions, then check the codes again.

If all is well the only code you should see is P1111.

 

driving conditions? fast on the HWY, slow on back streets, jack rabbit starts????

 

Glad you found it! As for the plug as long as the wire stays in place I would not be concerned.

 

well I am half blind without my reader glasses so I could not see the opening well. Tonight I will look closer and make sure the wire goes in and figure out to make sure it stays in.