jj,

Yes, that is true, they did use bakelite in that role, and even then it did develop radial cracks through shrinkage from the sun coming through the windows/windscreen. It did take a long time, agreed. They also used it for dashboards and all kinds of other fittings such as knobs etc. But the temperature experienced under those conditions doesn't come close to comparable with down in the valley of a working engine. It's almost like one side of Mercury to the other.

I'd need to confirm, but I think it applies to all Ford derived V8's as well as V6's from the Durotec famiuly (now there is an oxymoron - "Durotec"?) For the record, any Ford/Jaguar V8 before April 2000 has Nikasil coatings in the cylinders, and be careful of any engines replaced under warranty over the next year - they were trying to get rid of any Nikasil engines still 'on the shelf'.

Cheers,

Languid

 

You can look at that cap and housing top center towards the radiator, see gus's photos. If its black plastic, it applies to you.

Yes bakelite is even in my 1931 Ford.

 

I think when I replace mine in the near future I will replace the mounting bolts with allen head bolts. Has anyone done this? Any comments?

EZDriver

 

Great idea!

 

Just changed the plastic with aluminum on my 2000 xj8L. Not too bad a job, except 2 back bolts. To get the original ones out, I used a dremel to cut a slot in the hex head and used a large screwdriver to remove. When I installed the aluminum I replaced the hex head bolts with socket head cap screws and a metric hex ball driver to tighten them. The hex ball driver will operate at quite an angle and makes the back bolts a breeze. Also if ever removed again, no problem. Good Luck.

H2 solutions

 

jj,

I'll have to check with Murray, but I'm pretty sure that it applies to all Ford 'Duratec' derived engines.

Send me a reminder email,

Cheers,

Languid

 

I got away cheap on my vdp engine.

The part was about 45.00.

My lincoln built the housing into the plastic intake manifold.

Job cost me $1000.00.

IMO the engineers who designed this fiasco really should be sterilized.

 

Lanquid;

The AJ engine series was a Jaguar engine not a Ford engine, designed in house.

Ford picked it up for US models later.

But I would still appreciate the information if anyone has it on if they ever stopped using the plastic thermostat housings on the '96-'05 XK's

cheers,

jj

 

Just replaced mine on the 03 vdp.

Was quite a job, had to chop off the old one.

Rounded one of the 8mm bolts on the housing.

Anyone know where I can find these bolts? Not even sure of the size.

I did find a tip on replacement.

Use the shorter ones from the water manifold on the rear housing and the long ones from the housing on the water manifold.

tia

 

I checked the Harbor Freight website, and the wrench sets they list do not include anyhting smaller than 10mm.

 

Yes, 99% of my searches showed the same thing.

Finally found a set on ebay for $17. It had the 8mm crow.

 

Could not get a crows foot to work bolts where slightly rounded. Bent 2 8 mm wrenches flat and box end. Added a piece of key stock/ square stock to the bent wrench and made long enough to clear the top of the tower. Turned the key stock with a 10 mm wrench. Crows foot was so wide i could only get a 1/16 turn, with the home made wrench 1/4 to 1/2 turn. made life easier. Jim

 

Yep, had the same problem, thus had to chisel off the housing.

Even had to lift the intake for clearance.

Need to find a new bolt now.

 

I've got the slow leak issue on my 2002 XK8. My dependable local mechanic is recommending replacing the thermostat as long as he is changing out the old plastic housing. I would like to avoid spending money where I don't have to. Am I being short sighted? The car has 77,000 miles on it and the thermostat is most likely original since I bought the car with 39,000 miles on it several years ago.

Thanks!

 

Buck,

You are going for an aluminium aftermarket Thermostat Housing? Great improvement on the OE Jaguar plastic one.

Replace the Thermostat - it's a low cost item and a frequent failure.

Graham

 

I have been having the same slow leak issue. My mechanic wants to replace the housing and the thermostat. If the thermostat is still good, am I just being cheap and shortsighted for not wanting to spend the money on replacing it right now?

 

YES - see #35 above.

Graham

 

This is what I used when I upgraded my thermostat housing to aluminum - easier to use than the crows foot, bent crows foot, etc - no manipulation to the bolt is needed and no worries about rounding off the bolt...

 

Looks interesting, you were actually able to get that around the bolt and clear the intake?

 

Just bought one to have.

TITAN 12808 8 MM FLEX HEAD RATCHETING WRENCH | eBay