Hi Gus,

It wont get that far even with assistance, once it clicks out, all pump activity ceases it doesnt even really start to move the hood very much. And the latch itself doesnt come up enough to make an attempt at grabbing the roof.

Thanks
James

 

Looking at the fault chart it suggests that a speed indication could cause this. Never had this issue! I need to ponder on this and will get back with you.

 

Ok Gus, thank you.

It seems odd that everything cuts out in time with the clicking in the catch.

 

Have you tested all the switches in the header for proper operation?

 

Also do you know if the latch and ram hoses have been replaced?

 

Hi Gus, all header switches have been thoroughly tested using 12v test light and they are all functioning as expected.

And the previous owner told me all hoses were replaced, and to be fair when looking at them, they dont look very old

 

Use a multimeter on ohms to check whether the switches are working correctly. Using a lamp can give false indications.

If the hoses have been replaced then check against a schematic that they are all in the right place.

 

Hi Jim, Do you know what the correct readings should be ?

They all seem to function correctly to drop the hood as well which is strange

And do you know of the hose schematic? I have tried swapping latch hoses with no effect and I would have thought ram hoses are in the correct locations or it wouldnt retract?

 

You should be looking at 0.1 - 0.2 ohms for a closed switch and obviously infinity for an open one. Always best to test when disconnected from the rest of the circuit that way your readings will not be influenced by any electronic components.

You should be able to get a schematic from jagrepair.com and plenty of other info.

 

Ok Jim,

Ill check the readings out and make sure they are all working properly using the multimeter. Thank you

 

Take a look at that TSB and it will show you the open and close of all the switches. However you can test the switches from the plug in the header but you will need to pull the visors and liner from the header. Note that you have 2 white plugs that can easily be mixed up so the one to the left is for the switches in the header and the one to the right is for the center light. I hope that the person changing the hoses did not mix them up..

 

Hi Gus,

That TSB you refer to is pretty much what I have been working from combined with the info on your site, thats how I came to the conclusion that when latch closed switch goes to open circuit, that is the point where power is cut. Which is then what led me to believe the SLCM is misinterpreting the signal somehow.

And in reference to the hoses, I would have thought by swapping them I have done all the checks I can on them ?

Thanks

 

This is a situation I have not had before so I need to give it more thought. I only wish I could get my hands on it. I will get back with you..

Question: At what location did you test the switches?

 

Thanks Gus, your help is massively appreciated.

And I tested the switch up at the latch end, using the left hand part of the white plug as this is what goes to the actual switches themselves. Taking the colours from the jag wiring diagram.

 

The fact that the roof will open properly and the latch parks leads me to believe that the switches are working properly in the header. The quarter windows lowering tells me that the top switch in the ram is working and the latch would not open if the bottom ram switch was not working. However, I do not know if the instrument pack is indicating the wrong speed of the car preventing it from closing. At the moment I do not have an answer on how that operates.

Give me a little time on this.

 

Ok Gus.

No problem, any help is appreciated

Im at a loss with it

 

First verify the latch hydraulic hoses are connected as below:

Top [uppermost] hose at Hydraulic Pump connects to LH fitting at Latch Cylinder [nearest to “A” pillar] in header assembly.

Bottom hose at Hydraulic Pump connects to RH fitting at Latch Cylinder.
[This hose should be marked with an “F” or a circled “F” for identification at each end]

*** Small paint dot instead of “F” noted – 2/25/09***

If those are correct, lower the roof lights and disconnect the white connector that goes to the latch microswitches. With that disconnected, see if the hood will power up and down correctly with the switch. Forget the latch and claw at this point, all we want to know is will the hydraulics move the top both ways while the switches are disconnected.

Report the results.
Unfortunately, I will be traveling this week so my responses may be spotty, but your results will give us a direction.

Cheers,

 

Hello Steve,

Firstly, thank you for your help it is very much appreciated.

The hoses, I have followed as you suggest and identified they are definitely in the correct positions as you say, so I think we can eliminate them.

Onto the next tests

After undoing the white plug on the header that you suggested, I manually unlatched the hood with the petcock open and pushed it up slightly by hand so it was just clear of the catch. I then closed the petcock, started the car and pushed the hood down button, everything acted as it should do, the hood went down the latch retract and the front windows stepped themselves back up slightly to the fully up position when the hood was down.

When I then tried to put it up, there was a click sound, nothing moved and it said hood not latched on the display.

Thanks again for your help

James

 

Did the pump attempt to run when close was selected?

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

Hey Gus

The pump tries to run but I wouldnt even say it runs for a second with it disconnected, it cuts out almost immediately.

Cheers
James