Replaced the VVT seals this AM since RAIN was eminent. The car is LHD 2003 XK8 Coupe. The VVT seals were OEM and sourced from E-Bay vendor. The entire job required approximately 45 minutes including clean-up afterwards. Tools used were a Harbor Freight 8" curved pry bar (Part of set of 4 -$10), metal handled acid brush shortened to 3/4", old tooth brush. small ball pein hammer, brake clean spray, Craftsman 1 1/4" 1/2" drive socket, and a 5" X 1/4" rod to insure the seal was seated. Began job on left side (Driver). The access is more restricted than the Right (Passenger) due to the dipstick and hood support. First I removed the solenoid connectors from the solenoids. There are push tabs on the connectors, but I found it easier to use a small hobby flat bit screwdriver inserted from front of connectors and lift the tab to release them. Remove the dipstick to ease access on the left cam cover. Inserted the pry tool (it is tapered 30 degrees) which enhances access for prying up. Careful, the cam cover is plastic! Work around the seal and it will loosen w/o too much effort. The area around the solenoid was cleaned prior to beginning this job and again once the seal was removed. The acid brush and brake clean plus paper towels should get the area clean. Took the new seal and wiped the inside surface with clean oil to prevent any scars on this surface. Optional, place a thin wipe of hylomar around lower exterior seal surface, JIC. Next came the Craftsman 1 1/4" socket. It was tall enough to clear the solenoid and a tiny bit smaller than the OD of the seal. Tapped the seal home. The next step used the 1/4" rod to insure the seal was seated 100%. Could tell this by sound and feel. Now came the right side which was considerably easier. Just remove the Air Cleaner Box. Repeated the same steps as used on left side. No problems developed and job was completed. Plugged in the connectors on both sides and did my clean up, cranked the car and let it reach operating temp while occasionally revving the engine to 2500 RPM. No lights or warning so apparently all is OK.
Note: JIC- just in case :-)

 

Man, I watched a youtube video on this and read your post. My seal just won't seem to break free? In your description and the video the seal just pops right up. I guess I may just have to destroy it to get it off.

Thanks for the post though!

 

Get a couple of small diameter sheet metal screws about and inch long and screw them into the seal and then pry on them to pop the seal out. The seal is sheet metal covered in rubber or some just solid rubber. Don't drive them to deep.

 

Thank you Vern. I'll give that a try!