I know these are notorious for failing, on mine the green light on the right side does not come on at all, mirror does not react in any way to a flash light pointed on a sensor located on the left. Checked vehicle care book, don't see a dedicated fuse (or any mention for that matter). Is my only option replacement at this point? Any way to troubleshoot?

Thank you.

 

Did some digging, based on the electrical guide the mirror is fed by fuse 16 in the driver side fuse box. This fuse also feeds a number of other things all of which are working. The green led on the mirror is not shown at all, mirror is shown as a module on fig 11.4 with no internal info at all. Interestingly it also feeds info into side mirrors if tint does not work for the rear view it is not going to work for the side mirrors either. It also has inputs for side lamps on, convertible top down, and reverse gear. Not sure what these are for, need to get it working first. Any ideas?

 

Take off the little cover and check the connector. If it's plugged in, check the voltage at the connector. If you have voltage there and the mirror isn't working, I think you just have to replace the mirror. Personally, I'd probably try to take the mirror apart, but I've never had much luck with things like that.

 

Thanks for the reply. Is 1997 supposed to have automatic head lights? Mine don't work so it could be a related issue.

 

If you have auto headlights there'd is an "auto" option on the stalk that operates the lights. Off, marker lights, head lamps and then auto is the order you would see

 

No auto option so I guess a car with original sticker price over $70k did not have this option. Checked the voltages tonight and there is no +12V. If I am not mistaking there is supposed to be 12V between pins 1 and 3 of the connector and / or between pin 1 and ground. I am only reading mV probably just noise on the multimeter. +12V on pin 1 of connector RF2-1 comes from connector RF1-1 according to schematics. Any idea where RF-1 is, hope I don't have to take half of the car apart to get to it.

Thanks guys.

 

Just to be sure before you go tearing into the car...Are you making measurements with the ignition on?...that is ignition switched power.

 

Yep, ignition is on. I am questioning if this is worth an effort with no auto headlights and no dimming side mirrors. If someone could tell me where this connector is it would be great. Somewhat of a mystery, with the fuse not-blown and everything else working where the heck did +12V go?

 

It looks like RF1 is in the roof. I'm guessing it's under the cover on the top of the windshield frame.

 

if i am reading schematics right, should be on the right-hand side. How hard is it to take the cover off? After having igintion coil connectors crumble in my hands I am a bit gun-shy.

 

FWIW official description is 18-way multilock /yellow right hand 'A" POST connector mounting bracket / 'A' Post Trim.

It is not really clear to me if it is above, in or below the A post.

 

How hard is it? I tried to take mine off before, but I couldn't figure it out. However other members say it is very easy. I just wasn't doing it right apparently. There are some screws along the top, and there is something on each end that has to come off.

Once it's off check out your hydraulic hoses.

 

Before you take it apart, why not try running 12v to that pin and see if the LED lights. If it does, another option is just to splice in a new wire in and add a fuse adapter to fuse 16 in the fuse box...it might be easier than tracking down a broken wire.

You might even be able to tuck the wire under the trim from the edge and down to the fuse box and not even have to remove anything.

 

running 12V to the pin is a possibility, my concern is there are two different symbols for ground, one is logic ground and one is regular ground. should be the same reference but if it isn't i might be asking for troubles. i'll check schematics tomorrow to see where i could steal it from

WhiteXKR, forgive my ignorance, what is an A-post

thanks guys for helping out

 

It's the A-pillar. It's the post that goes from the body of the car up to the roof along the windshield frame.

Pillar (car) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

The grounds are probably connected together at a single point somewhere. You should also measure the voltage from pin 1 to the chassis. If you have voltage that way, then it is your ground that is bad.

The A-posts are the front windshield side pillars.

Also, to remove the header trim, you first need to pry off both the interior A-post trims. Then you have to pull out the center roof console. Then you have to snap open the plastic screw covers on the visors, and remove the visor screws and visors and the visor light electrical connectors.
There is a possibility of plastic breakage when pulling off the A-post trim and yanking out the console. I was lucky with mine, but the older the car, the more brittle it is, as you know.

That is why I would advocate running a new wire if you can positively diagnose the problem.

 

Calling in electrical experts, here are my thoughts. Right next to the rear view mirror connector, there is a roof console lighting connector RF10. Pin 5 comes off "illuminate enable" of interior lighting control module (FIG 10.1). This "illuminate enable" is also feeding trunk lamps, glove lamps, vanity lamps. I am pretty sure it is +12V. Does anybody know how is "illuminate enable" different from ignition controlled +12V??? Another option is to pick up +12V on pin 10-2 (fig. 18.1) feeding garage door control module, but this is not ignition-switched. So I would have to remember to turn the mirror off using button at the bottom of the mirror. I don't think I'll be pulling the trim off, something breaks we are talking major $$ that if I could even find it. Incidentally, are there any big junk yards in Northern NJ / Eastern PA?

thanks everyone.

 

I beleive the illumination enable is a delayed off +12 battery. In other words, it allows the trunk or vanity lights to be used for a few minutes after ignition off, then disconnects to prevent draining the battery. Since it drives a fair number of bulbs directly, I am guessing it sources a fair amount of current, probably through a relay built into the illumination control module.

It seems to me that might be a reasonable voltage source to tap.

Before you bother with that though, make sure it is not your ground that is faulty by checking pin 1 to voltage with the chassis as ground.

 

Thank you, I checked all three pins od RF2 to car body, reading mV, close to zero. Will also check continuity of RF2-3 to ground. Will be playing with it over weekend and report back. Thank you.

 

looks like all sources I was planning to use and described in post 17 above are unswitched. I think the two options I have is use unswitched 12V and turn the mirror off using the button on the mirror or take the trim off and try to find why I am not getting 12V on RF2.