XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Rebuilding a head

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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 12:12 PM
  #1  
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Default Rebuilding a head

I had to replace the left head on a 2000 xk8 that was damaged from a broken valve. The donor head is ftom a 99 xj8 that lost a rod bearing. The person that had the donor car must have driven it for a while with the bad rod because fine bits of metal were in the head and the cams and cam journals were scratched. I took the cams from the 200 xk8 and fitted them to the donor head. I'm showing my process in this thread. I would much appreciate any criticism or a better way of doing any part of my process. This is the way I learn is from others experience. I was taught this process from a neighbor of mine who builds engines, 600cc, for midget sprint cars.

First thing is to disassemble the head. I make sure that everything goes back where it came from. I buy these containers from Harbor Freight and mark them E1-8 and I 1-8.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1477757061
I have the valve towards the front of the engine as #1 to the back of the engine #8. I put the cam buckets, retainer, and valve springs into the corresponding spot in my container. I put all the keepers into one spot. I take and engraver and mark each valve on the bottom of them 1-8. You don't need to mark them intake or exhaust because you can tell the difference. After I remove the cams I put the caps back on the head so as not to damage the inner surface by just putting them in a container.

Next I clean all the parts and pressure wash the head. Then use air to dry off all the parts.

You can see the scratches in the journals and on one of the cam buckets.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1477758580
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1477758681

Now I put steel blue layout fluid on the cam journals and caps.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1477758988

Next I reinstall the cams, torque them to proper torque, and turn them several times. Then remove the cams to see how the cams are working in the journals.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1477759711
In the photo you can see that the cam is riding where the blue is gone. Get a socket that is as close to the size of the journal but not bigger than the journal. Then wrap a piece of 1200 wet and dry around the socket and sand the journals and caps to remove the scratches and cut down the high spots where the blue is gone. You need to do a little at a time and add more blue when needed to check progress.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1477760338
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1477760338
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1477760338
After you are satisfied that the cams are fitted correctly you need to check your clearances.
I'll continue post in a few. I need to check a few things and I don't want to loose what I have already typed.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 02:09 PM
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That looks like a good method. High spots removed with minimal enlargement of the bore. An old fashioned shade tree mechanic technique.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 04:03 PM
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The only thing I would not do is the engraving of the valves on the
valve face. It has the potential to create hot spots.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RJ237
That looks like a good method. High spots removed with minimal enlargement of the bore. An old fashioned shade tree mechanic technique.
Yep. Did that with a seized cam once when the alternative was
engine replacement. No Dychem ... just sand until happy
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 04:27 PM
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The engraving is really only a srcatch. Sometimes I have a hard time seeing the numbers after I clean the valves.

SHADE TREE MECHANIC????????
 

Last edited by BobRoy; Oct 29, 2016 at 04:34 PM. Reason: Don't know how to spell
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 11:39 PM
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Now to get the clearances correct you wI'll need to get what they call plastigague. I got mine from Autozone but I think most parts stores should have it. What it is is thin string of soft plastic that you put between two surfaces then as you bring the two surfaces together it flattens out then you use a gague that comes with the plastigague to see what the clearance is.

Take the cam and put it back in the head. Put a piece of plastigague on each journal. Install the cam caps and torque to specs, 9-11Nm. After all caps have been torqued remove them and use the gague to check clearances from the now compress plastigague. I can't remember the exact clearances but from memory I tried to get it between .040 to .060mm. In the photo the gague shows it closer to .076mm.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1477800410
Too much clearance. Take the cam cap for that journal and run it across a piece of 1200 wet and dry on a flat surface.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1477802076
Take a new piece of plastigague and recheck clearance. I now getting between .038 and .051mm. I guessing about .045mm. The clearance is now correct.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1477800946
The fitting of the cams and setting clearances took me a good part of a day. In my opinion getting these right will help with engine life and better performance. If the cams are installed correctly I think you will have more HP than cams that are in a bind which will put a drag on the engine and increase heat output.
 
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