I didn't get any codes or warnings when mine failed. Just pinking/pinging when warm and under power, though others have reported a RP warning. The 15A (blue) #12 fuse blown is the first check. Fusebox in engine compartment just in front of bulkhead (under protective cover).

 

Actually, there is a code, P1113 that can point to a Intercooler Failure.

This is a result of a High Temp reading on IATS2 which is located After the Intercooler.

The code could also indicate a IATS2 Failure or a Grounded wire from IATS2 to the ECM.

 

Can you read this code with a standard code scanner or do you need a Jaguar specific one?

EDIT: Its OK I found the answer in the Jaguar DTC chart, says can be read with OBDII scanner - not Jaguar specific.

 

The knock sensors are a problem on this car especially when moisture is introduced to the engine. When you get a RP on the dash and it did not set the check engine light just take a small inexpensive OBD II code reader and leave it plugged into your car as you are driving. It will capture the cause and give you a code. I had two knock sensors fail and took me down the same path as you only my car is not SC. I would recommend replacing both knock sensors when the job is done. As for the codes my recommendation is for you to get a copy of the codes for you’re my car, anything less could provide you bad information. This link should help JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

True enough. The Knock Sensors are Pizoelectric units which have a very High Impedance. A High Resistance "Short" across the terminals could cause the ECM to see faulty data from them.

Minor damp or wet "Crud" could cause this.

 

Bill, If you can put your hand on the I/C's and they just feel warm I think you're OK on the pump. I experienced RP when I was loading the S/C climbing hills at interstate speeds. I had no codes when I scanned the OBDII with my Innova 3130. When I first bought the car it ran fine untill I drove up the mountain from SC to Asheville---started going into RP after 10 min. of steep climb. I always noticed when I first had the car that the engine seemed to throw off alot of heat---I wasn't that familiar with Jag. and figured it was normal. I mean I could vaporize an egg on the I/C's before replacing the aux. pump. Now I can put my hand on top of the I/C's and just keep them there as long as the car hasn't sat too long after running. Good Luck w/ the knock sensors.

 

Gus

Thanks for the info, it helped me understand a lot about my problem. I have a knock sensor #1 code error. I assumed this sensor was located on the left side of the engine or( USA driver side).From your information it appears that the #1 sensor is on the right side (USA passenger side). Could you or any other member verify that this correct? I only cleaned the plug for the left side sensor thinking this was the #1 sensor. I still have the RP message intermittently.

Bill N

 

P0327 Refers to the "A Bank Knock Sensor".

The "A Bank" would presumably be the same as Bank 1 in the following diagram. This would be the Passenger Side (U.S.)

 

I got the #1 knock sensor plug off and sprayed it with contact cleaner, but after driving about 60 miles, parked the car for about 1.5 hours. When I restarted it I got the RP message only no check engine lite. Drove for about 20 minutes and the RP went out. Looks like engine heat after shut off is causing the sensor to fail as I never get this error while driving.

Bill N

 

one problem that happened to me is that from accelerating one of my ignition plugs came loose and would touch on and off randomly giving me poor performance. the first step is to check your codes as always though

 

I used my new U480 scanner and it gave me a P0001 code -"fuel volume regulator control circuit open". I guess these cheap scanner do not tell you very much. I cleared out the codes and will check it again when I get the RP message. When the Jag service checked the codes it was knock sensor #1. When I was checking around the knock sensor plug, I noticed that the cable from the #1 sensor had a lot of the cable at the top of the block and looked like it was pinched where it goes into the block. I couldn't tell for sure as things get pretty congested down there. I repositioned the cable to see if that would make any difference.

I did find the cooling pump for the supercharger. Is this a closes circuit or part of the engine cooling system? If it is a closed system is there a condenser that cools the water for it? I thought my old 86 Maserati BI-Turbo was congested, but the Jag is really congested.

Bill N

 

The Supercharger Intercooler Loop has a cross connection with the Engine Coolant System.

However, this is only used when filling the entire system. In operation there is essentially no movement of coolant from one system to the other.

This is because the pressure is the same at both ends of the cross connection.

 

I finally discovered how to use my scanner. I got a code P0328 "knock sensor 1 circuit high input bank 1". I was driving around all morning but never shut the car off for more than 15 minutes. The RP message did not show up. Got home and parked the car and rechecked it again, about 45 minutes later, and got the RP message. Plugged in the scanner and got the above code. Apparently the #1 knock is failing due to heat soak after shut down. Once I restart the car and drive about 20 minutes the knock sensor cools off and the error clears itself.

I have an idea to really pin this down and would like comments from the group. If I unplug the #1 sensor and plug one of my new ones in and just let it hang, after driving the car, until it is at normal operating temp and sits for 45 minutes, the RP message should not occur. If I then replug the suspected bad sensor back in and start the car I should get the RP message? Does this sound feasible? I assume the computer does not check the sensors until the car is started??

Bill N

 

Maybe. However, be advised that some cars deliberately induce a "Ping" by advancing the timing just to test if the Knock Sensor(s) are working. If the Knock Sensor does not respond with a Ping Signal, the Sensor is tagged as bad.

Still, I would try your plan to see what happens.

 

I took the XKR in Monday for repair of the reduced power problem (#1knock sensor heat sensitive). While it was there for the knock sensor replacement I had the car checked for any other problems and ended up replacing the following: (OMG)

both knock sensors (heat sensitive)
both tie rods (blown)
both front end bushing assemblies (dried out)
both rear end bushing assemblies (dried out)
various super charger hoses (worn spot on top of hoses)
thermostat (routine)
super charger belt (cracked)
serpentine belt (cracked)
all antifreeze (routine)
alternator air cooling duct (missing)
various gaskets for super charger reassembly
four wheel alignment (routine)
approximately 15 labor hours @$98.00 hour

My local Jaguar dealer wanted $1,595.00 just to do the knock sensor replacement. My local Jaguar specialist garage charged me $2,200 to do all the above work. I think I did OK on this service, now everything is replaced that needed replaced.

It would appear that the weather in the Charleston, SC is not to good for the rubber bushings, knock sensors or rubber covers. The XKR spent it,s first 6 years and 38k miles in Charleston, SC. It spent 2 years and 10k miles in Raleigh, NC. It currently has 52k miles on it and is now my Southern Belle in Northern Connecticut.

I expect my XKR to run without any major problems for the next several years. I plan to have the transmission fluid and fuel filter changed at 75k miles. The only thing that may go is the hydraulic hoses, but I think they were already replaced by the first owner. As there seems to be some activity in the headliner and side pillar area that suggests that there was some work done there.

I have plans to pick the car up Friday and will have to sell my youngest son to pay for the repair. LOL What do you guys think about this?

Bill N
03 XKR vert

 

Oh well, making a new one will be fun ;-)

Personaly would do the oil now, is it ages as well.

 

I think you got alot for your money. You can relax now, and just enjoy driving it for awhile. +1 with avos, no reason to wait on that tranny fluid. 9 years on the old fluid, no matter the miles, will surprise you when you see it drained.

 

I agree with you guys about the tranny oil change. If the rubber bushings were destroyed due to weather conditions, the tranny fluid probably is on it's way out. I will only be driving the car about 2k miles until I store it, so will probably wait till spring and have the fluid change and fuel filter replaced.

The Jag service manager said that he suspects that the 20" BBS wheels probably caused most of the suspension and bushing deterioration. He indicated that some of the other Jags they have serviced with the 20' wheels show the same ware on suspension parts. These wheels look great on the car but apparently the suspension was not designed to handle them!! Any comments about this?

Bill N

 

Bill,

Interesting comment on the 20" BBS wheel effect on suspension wear.

I found the 20" Sepangs on this 2005 giving a so much firmer ride than the 18" Impellers on my last XK8. I immediately suspected the wishbone bushes or cross member mounts were on the way out. However, they all looked OK. Despite this, I'll take that Service manager's advice and keep a close eye on them if they are prone to faster wear.

Graham

 

Just got some more bad and good news about this problem. The #1 knock sensor was not the problem causing the Reduced power message. The car was checked after they were replaced and it came up with a pending #1 knock sensor code read by the diagnostic machine!!!

According to the technicians who worked on the car, the problem was being caused by a marginal knock sensor ground on the right side bank. They were able to compare resistance readings with my left side sensor and confirmed the readings on two other supercharged Jags that were in the shop. My right side sensor was reading 300 ohms higher on the ground side when the engine was hot. It was OK when the engine was cool.

They added a splice between the ground on the right side to the left side sensor and the ground issue was solved. Apparently this marginal ground is some where in the wiring harness, between the knock sensor and the ECU. They could not find the intermediate connectors, but the grounds for both sides are redundant, according to the electrical schematic. They are both grounded at the ECU at the same place, so this fix sounded like it would be OK to splice the grounds between the left and right sensors. This was a $2.00 fix. yikes!!!

I spent $1,000.( parts and labor) for new knock sensors that I really did not need, but the other work that was done doing the replacement was needed. I had similar electrical ground problems with my 86 Maserati Bi Turbo, which drove me nuts trying to fix. I was able to do all the electrical work on the Maser myself and saved a lot money.

All the symptoms of this problem really pointed to a heat sensitive #1 knock sensor. I had an idea, before I brought the car in, to buy a new sensor from Autozone ($25.99) and just plug it in to the right side to see if that fixed the RP message. For some reason I didn't do it, am I a dumb *** or what?

Anyway I got two good knock sensors that cost me $500 each, parts and labor. I am willing to sell one for half that cost!! I know somebody out there must need a good knock sensor, fully checked out!!!!!! I am going to frame the #1 sensor and hang it on the wall in my office. LOL

Is it possible that installing the two fixes, (ref Rev Sam's videos) for the back window switch and the power antenna switch, could have caused the problem? If those connectors in the center consul area get disturbed who knows. I hope that was not the case, but there are a lot of connectors and wires in that area where you make the connections for these two fixes.

The problem could have been caused by a partially broken wire or loose ground connector somewhere in the car. I am thinking it is some where under the hood as heat effects it. If anybody knows where the knock sensor grounds and connecting plugs are located, let me know. This would have been a good problem for Rev Sam.. I hope I have a nice kitty now.


Bill N