Hi, I checked all fuses in trunk, passenger and driver side, and under the hood/bonnet on both sides, all fuses are clean and fine when inspected with test light and visually.

Battery was tested at two different places and resulted as follows;

Hi, I went to get the battery checked today at 2 different places where they both tested and said the battery is good.

One of the tests showed a voltage of 12.54

and the other gave me a print ut saying the following;

"Marginal Battery"
Voltage 12.54
623cca
Rated 775cca
Temperature 89 degrees

Thanks alot aode06, much appreciated

 

Hi, I went to get the battery checked today at 2 different places where they both tested and said the battery is good.

One of the tests showed a voltage of 12.54

and the other gave me a print ut saying the following;

"Marginal Battery"
Voltage 12.54
623cca
Rated 775cca
Temperature 89 degrees

Thanks alot Dennis07, much appreciated

 

Hi, I did check the fuses in the fuse boxes on passenger and driver sides, the drivers side had a part with a rubber on top, i felt on top of the rubber and pushed downwards but it felt empty so I gently pushed the rubber part up and slightly off to feel inside it but all I felt there were 2 metal like pieces that were slightly bouncy when i pressed downwards on them, i then slipped the rubber back on.

The wiper and windows etcetera do work though.

But I still am not sure where is and how to easilly access the starter for wiring inspection.

Thank you, much appreciated

 

Oh and i also did check the shifter selections, they all light up as i switch from P - Drive and back to P.

and when I was checking under the hood with ignition forward, i did hear a buzzing sound which I assume sounds like a fuel pump working

Thanks again Gus, much appreciated
Sid

 

It's this kind of ambiguity that makes me so distrustful of so called "load tests". But that's a topic for another day. Your battery is not the problem here.

I'm sorry if I've missed or forgotten something, but it's late and my head is fuzzy ...

When you try to start the car, does the key advance to the "start" position or is it blocked from doing so?

What if anything do you hear at that point?

Are you able to buy or borrow a voltmeter?

 

Hi, yes i can trun the key all the way, it goes through system check and i hear something sort of clicking on the passenger side as the steering column also adjust its position, and the dome lights turn off.

Also from under the hood I hear a buzzing which I assume is the fuel pump,but the starter doesn't turn.

Tried in park and neutral, and all shifter positions light up.

Thanks alot Dennis07, much appreciated

 

I may be talking out my bottom here but maybe a security module problem?
I don't know if it would inhibit just starting or all of the electricals though.
Just a thought......

 

Thanks for the contribution multiplecats, that's what I am starting to wonder myself, the car worked fine prior to the battery draining so no reason to think any mechanical part would break from being parked or deprived of electricity.

I've had many cars, was a even car dealer for a while, and I never experienced nor ever heard of such a ridiculous design.

thanks again, much appreciated

 

The Fuel pump is in the tank behind the rear seat in the trunk. So any buzzing you hear under the hood probably isn't that, though it could be the fuel rails/injectors charging. You might want to narrow down the sound a bit

 

This may sound stupid,
Rub your key across the negative battery terminal.
Shut the trunk.
Turn the valet switch on then off.
Put your key in the ignition, hold the brake, shift the shifter to drive, then park.

Activate your alarm using the same key in the door.

Then turn it off using the same key , in the door.
Now using the key fob activate and disarm the alarm.

and make sure your valet switch is not on and your not using the valet key.

Then insert the key and start your car.
To me is seems your car thinks you are in drive or has lost the security link to the key after the battery has been drained.

If the above doe not work, the dealer needs to put your key back on the Security module for a small fee to no fee.

 

Hi aode06, I went to try what you suggested but since I always used the remote since purchasing the car, I only discovered today that my key doesn't match the door lock or vice versa, so I couldn't try your suggestion, also I only have one key, the seller didn't give me a second one so I dodn't know if it's a valet or not, my key has a gold logo on a black background.

I will call the local dealer tomorrow to find out more about putting the key back on the security module.

Do they need the car there to do that or just the VIN or some number that is on the module they will be matching it to?

Thanks alot, much appreciated

 

Here is what the dealer told me to tell you to do.

Lower the driver window then lock the vehicle to activate the alarm. Reach in and pull the inner handle on the driver door. The alarm should start going off PUT THE KEY in the ignition and turn the key on.

If the alarm goes off then we know the security system is most likely not the problem. We will then need to check the starting circuit with a digital multimeter. Let me know.

 

My dime is on the High Power protection fuse or the Starter.

 

Hi aode06, I think I tried something like that, I got into the driver seat, closed the door and set the alarm with either the remote or by locking the door with the handle, then i tried to start the car with the key and the alarm went off so i stopped it with the remote, i might have tried with the key as well on the second attempt, i don't remember exactly.

I will try it again the way you stated and let you know.

Thanks alot, much appreciated

 

[QUOTE=aode06;1103824]This may sound stupid,
Rub your key across the negative battery terminal.
Shut the trunk.
Turn the valet switch on then off.
Put your key in the ignition, hold the brake, shift the shifter to drive, then park.

Activate your alarm using the same key in the door.

Then turn it off using the same key , in the door.
Now using the key fob activate and disarm the alarm.

and make sure your valet switch is not on and your not using the valet key.

Then insert the key and start your car.
To me is seems your car thinks you are in drive or has lost the security link to the key after the battery has been drained.

If the above doe not work, the dealer needs to put your key back on the Security module for a small fee to no fee.[/QUOTE]

Hi, well that statement got me excited so I called the dealer today to inquire about putting my key back on the security module, he said I have to tow the car there to do it and that it would cost $175 for the key sync, so i asked him if putting the key back didn't work, how much to diagnose the problem, how long it would take, and what method they would be proceeding with, so he answered it would take about an hour to pull the code(s) and check different things including the starter etc, all for another $175.
So I'm guessing they charge an hour minimum per experiment at $175/hr.

So I am pretty sure I will wait on that option.

Thank alot, much appreciated

 

Hi Gus,
I already checked all the fuses in the trunk, both driver and passenger side of the dash, and both sides under the hood, and all were fine by either a testing light or visually inspecting.

Where is the "High power protection fuse" ?

Where is the started located exactly?

Thanks alot, much appreciated
Sid

 

Wow, $175 to pull codes and tell you the starter doesn't turn over - well I guess someone's got to pay for their gold-leaf Post-It notes

Seriously though at this stage the best investment for you would be, if you don't already have one, a test meter. Any cheap one is OK for this job.
I've been fooled in the past by fuses that look OK but the wire had actually invisibly fractured at the pin end.

Remember, it may be a Jaguar but it's still only tin, rubber, leather, and designed by mere mortals, so we mustn't let it beat us!
Keep us up to date with any progress.

 

Circuits are the next step, but we must make sure that YOUR KEY SHUTS OFF THE ALARM SYSTEM,IF IT DOES NOT, YOU WILL NEVER START THAT CAR LOL.

 

If you look at the diagram your key activates the starter solenoid the power to turn the starter is direct from the battery. If the fuse feeding the lead to the battery is blown then the starter will not turn. You mentioned that you can hear the clicking near the starter then I would say your power to the solenoid is good. If you look at the diagrams on the no start you will see that the battery power goes directly to the high power fuses then it goes 3 directions one to the trunk fuses another to the engine compartment to both fuse boxes and the last directly to the starter. All of these feeds are protected independently by a fuse and these fuses are located in the trunk look to the right of your tire well. You need to check them.

 

Have you been able to determine if there are any noises/clicks coming from the engine compartment, when you turn the key to the start position ?

Reason I ask is there have been problems with the solenoid on the starter motor. Solenoid clicks but does not energise the motor itself. Can be intermittant.

See here:Technical Information - RepairkitsUK | Starter Motor Repair Kits | Don't Buy a New Start Motor - Repair It