I have a 97 xk8 with 43k, the dealer tells me that my right front control arm bushing needs to be replaced. The right front tire is wearing on the inside. Should I replace the lower or the upper or all? I assumed it was the lower and feel comfortable with doing it myself. I am less sure about the upper. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

 

You can diagnosis control arm bushing failures by using a crow bar and prying each pivot assy. I had a similar problem and replaced them piecemeal. If I was doing this again, I would buy a complete front end bushing kit for about $500 and replace them all at once. gordo

 

Rabbits, did you post in the XK8/XKR section too? GordoCatCar has replaced his entire front suspension, so he will have alot to help you with.

From my experience (if you were to look in the XK8/XKR section for a post about alignment), I had severe inside tire wear caused by a tow out condition and too much negative camber. In a nutshell, had to buy new tires...that was a given, plus dealer wanted to replace upper shock mounts, springs, and put in an eccentric camber bolt (mine did not have the eccentric bolt). I opted for the new shock mounts up top, which appeared to have fatigued and was offcentered, eccentric bolt ($20 part) and the lower shock bushing (because lots of jag rattles in the front are caused by this...figured while the suspension was apart, take advantage of it). My rear camber was also out of spec, and jag has a shim kit for the rear which put it back in line.

After all was replaced (no new springs!!) i was back into spec, though barely, and tire wear was much better. I believe these cars are very sensitive to toe in/out issues which tear up the tires quickly, so if you ever feel it pull, however slightly, get it aligned to save the rubber. Once the tread is gone, or feathered like mine, they are loud as heck and can ruin a good ride.

 

Yes, as WaterBoy can attest, the tire wear can be caused by different, completely unrelated sources. Inside tire wear is usually too much negative camber caused by worn springs or other parts which let the control arm sag. The XK8 has no camber adjustment. Only an replacement eccentric lower control bolt, and even that is only going to give you a degree at most... most likely less.

Inside tire wear can also be sourced to toe in problems unrelated to camber, both in function and parts. So, unless you know a bit about front suspensions, and are willing to diagnose each condition separately, I would be inclined to suggest you take the car to an alignment shop for a complete examine.

Be advised the weak points are the rubber in the control arms, top and bottom,, the top fulcrum pins, the lower shock bushings, and the wheel bearings. gordo

 

Thanks for the info. I am thinking it would be best to replace the bushings and then get the alignment checked. It looks like an afternoon project and since I obviously do not drive it on a regular basis if it takes longer so be it.

I must admit I probably like this car more than any I have had (including a 69 e-type) but if I could go back to 2000 when I bought it I would not do it again. I think we all need to love spending money to keep a Jag running, hence there is little money left for any higher performance options. Although high performance was not my motivation but rather my interest in the brand. At 60, my high performance days are mostly memories!!

Thanks again, I will let you know how I make out with this issue.

 

All excellent advice, which prompts me to make two points:

at 43k, I'd guess the uppers are the main culprit.

h2O, I'm glad to hear you didn't get ganked for new springs. I recall thinking at the time that it didn't sound kosher.

 

Jagtech, are you suggesting its the upper control arm bushing or the mounts that I had replaced on mine. After all, i didn't do my upper bushings during the fleecing.

As for the new spring tactic...sure, it would have helped the camber a bit, but how much? My spidey sense was tingling, telling me to turn on the logic filter for that one.

 

Rabbit: It is more than an afternoon project; but certainly within the capabilities of a good home garage mechanic.

Before you begin, get all your parts as a complete replacement kit. Thenline up a shop with a press. You'll need one to R&Rsome of the bushings.

Also get a good ball joint puller. I have the fulcrum screw type spreader. It cost $30 and has been worth every penny. Forgeddabout the old 'picke fork' spreaders. They'll rip up your ball joint rubber sleeves.

Afteryou have disconnected and removed the brake calipers andtie rod ends.I suggest youpull the complete arm/upright [hub] assembly off at the subframe mounts. Four nuts, four bolts. Take the whole assembly down to the shop and let them have at it.

Note: Pay very close attention to the upperFulcrum Pin Shims. They are about the size of a50 cent piece, and they set the caster adjustment by their relative placement fore and aft. You dont even see them until the pin begins sliding rearward. As you withdraw the pin, these shims begin to slip out. These are NOT the larger bushing grommets; these are thinner and less obvious. Keep careful records as to their placement and order.

Good luck.

 

Gordo,thanks for the info. I was thinking the r and r would be a long afetrnoon not including the time to go and have everything pressed in and out. Anyway, it will be what ever it takes.
I did order a fulcrum type ball joint splitter today.
Regarding the shims, I realize they need to be returned in the same order, but do they also have to beoriented exactly the same?Is the hole for the fulcrum pin just larger than the pin or is there some eccentric to the hole that needs to be put back exactly the same?

Thanks

 

The shims are two (2) different thicknesses. Other than that, they are interchangeable and have no particular order. The pin is a slip fit to its hole and even with the bushings and shims, can be easily tappedin and out of its seated position.

Inserting the shims can be tricky. There is no way to support them in position while the pin is trying to locate and pass through their center hole. You might be able to use needle nose pliers, but found the tolerances where too tight.

I used a 3" 1/4" drive socket extension coming from the front... butting against the fulcrum pin coming from the rear. I put the shims on the drive extension first, and as the fulcrum pin was pushed through, the shims slipped off the drive extension onto the fulcurm pin. I think everyone has develops their own technique on this procedure. You'll see what I mean when you get there.

What is important is when you tap the fulcrum pin out... you are very careful to locate and ID the shims.

Gordo

 

Hi Gordo,

Well I finally got the bushings and ball joint tool and some time to work on the car. It is going wll so far, but a question. On the front lower arm, the bolt slides with no problem but it gets stuck at the cross frame that I assume is there to stiffen the front end (it is the big "X" under the engine). Do I need tounbolt it from the chassis?

I am glad you mention disconecting the tie rods, the jad cd manual does not mention this step. Of course, you can not get the lower rear bolt out without getting the this out of the way.

Thanks, Rabbits2

 

Yes, the X-frame cross brace needs to be removed, and IIRC the channel stiffener which spans across the frontneeds to come out before you can slide out the fulcrum bolt. When they're removed, paint 'em up. Same for the A-arms and other parts. Wipe them down with degreaser, scuff them up with sandpaper and/or primer, and give them a couple of coats of semi-gloss black. Do thejob right. gordo

 

Gordo, Thank you very much for your patience. I have now removed everything from the passenger side and it has raised another question. SinceIwill probably keep this car for many more years (8 so far), I wonder if it is ok to put the lower control arm bolts in backwards? So that the heads are toward each other. It appears to me that for future repairs, it would require less dissassembly time if the nutswerewhere the factory installed the heads.
I had no problem removing the upper control arm, but appreciate very much your caution about the shims faalling out. They are bagged and tagged for the reassembly.

Thanks again, Rabbits2

 

Jeez... that's a good question. I remember thinking the same thing when I did the job. I don't see why not? But I didn't myself. Instead, I replaced them according to the original build. My experience with cars is to go back to the original configuration. Often, in situations just like this, I think it makes sense to do what you suggest; but then later on, something occurs which I hadn't even thought of... which mandates the original configuration.

I do remember thinking that Iwill not be removing that front lower bolt that often. So I just replaced it in the same direction it came out.

YOu are also replacingwheel bearings? right? I would also do the ball joints... but definitely the bearings.

Gordo

 

I am planning to replace the bearings. I had not considered the ball joints, but as I see it now, replacing them is about like doing the bushing job over again. So I guess it will make sense. Is there any special tool required to press them out/in?

 

I am not sure about the lower ball joint because I purchased the complete arm assy which included bushing and ball joint already attached. At the time I was not aware that the ball joints could be replaced. Now that I know more, I amquite certain they can be replaced because the replacement units are widely available.They may be more difficult to remove than the uppers. If they are reluctant to pop out, take the whole control arm and hub upright as an assembly into the shop and have everything pressed out. You'll need to use a shop press for the wheel bearing, and ABS tool., etc. so do fight the ball joint, let them do it.

Either way, the SOP for ball joints is as follows:

Smack the ball joint hard on the outside with a BFH; nextuse a screw-type ball joint separator and turn until theypop them out. When they finally let go... and they always do... the really give a pretty loud bang. Keep the nut screwed on the very end of the threads so nothing flies off anywhere.

The ball joints usetapered holes. The new ones simply seat with pressure from tightening the bolts... and the weight of the vehicle. I used a little anti-seize compound to make life easier for the next guy... who most likely will be me. gordo

 

Lower ball joints can be pressed in just have to fine a way to hold the arm due to the angle on xks . Your tire wear is caused by your lower control arm bushing it seems it did not have the updated bushing in there . With your low mileage it seems your car never had this service action done.when your uppers start to your feel the car wonder abruptley and shud be replaced as soon as possible because I've seen them were out the aluminum subframe turning the circle hole into an oval.

 

Also it's very important that you tighten the lower bolts with the weight of the vehicle on the ground. If not done this can cause pulling issues and even tearing of the new bushing

 

Thanks for the tip, Iwould have surely tighten those lower bolts with the car raised. Any thoughts on the idea of reversing the lower control arm bolts to make the next replacement easiier?

 

shudnt harm anything.. but i dont think you will be removing them anytime soon.. plus i just hammer the bolt until i get the arm out.. dont have to remove any braces