A hot engine is a healthy and well protected engine, there’s a reason why everybody has 210+ running temps these days.

 

Iv'e had several occasions where dexcool has caused disintegration of head gaskets. Do not use this product in any engine.
Has anyone else had these experiences?

 

Dexcool has not caused any degradation issues in my wife's 2006 XK8. I have been using it since we acquired the car in early February 2012. One of the important rules to remember is to never mix coolant types. That typically leads to gelling, and gelling is what causes many cooling system issues (and eventually engine failure due to overheating)....

 

Counterpoint: Check the Jaguar Vehicle Specs Book on Jagrepair.com as your source for the proper cooling fluid spec and go with that. Each spec has a VIN range, including Dexcool.

If you feel you are using your car outside of what Jaguar had in mind for the spec (racing, tropical climate), then deviate. Or not. Your car, your call.

 

Since this is a one time thing, and the down side is potentially much greater than saving a few bucks, why take the chance. I would definitely use the manufacturer approved fill.

 

I must be missing something. What is the advantage to adding another product to water in your cooling system instead of the recommended antifreeze? Cost savings would be minimal, if any. Risk of damage to your engine would exceed that many times over. I'm at a loss.

 

Supposedly, de-ionized distilled water has better heat transfer properties than anti-freeze, which theoretically means it should cool better in a tropical environment. The purpose of the Waterwetter is to provide to corrosion inhibitors the water lacks, although Redline also claims a few other benefits.

However, seeing as how I haven't experienced heat soak while running Dexcool, I think I will just keep using it.

 

the heat transfer IS way better with distilled water + water wetter. I’ve never seen a car or liquid cooled motorcycle that didn’t see at least a 5-10 degree drop in temperature. Most of the time the drop is 10-15 degrees. That might not sound like much, but the difference is substantial on those 110-115 degree days that happen every summer in the southwest and western states.

if your car stays at 180-190 F on the hottest days, then I can see the reluctance to change from antifreeze 50/50. My car gets on the hot side on summer days over 95 F, not so much when on the highway in light traffic. But in town, and on a stop and go freeway, the coolant temperature will get on the high side of 215 - 220 F when using the 50/50 mix. Since I changed out the antifreeze, under the same conditions, I’m seeing 205-210 F with the water wetter solution.

if one is happy using antifreeze, I wouldn’t try to get them to try something different. But if there’s a reason to want lower engine temperature, then the water wetter solution is something that should be considered.

......additionally, moving the distilled H2O + water wetter seems to be way easier on the water pump. I don’t know the science behind that, just basing my anecdotal statement by unscientifically observations of the wear on many water pumps in severe duty engines vs. those running the water wetter in the same conditions (racing).

my introduction to water wetter came about when I first rubbed up against the vintage racing scene about 25 years ago. Many race sanctioning organizations prohibit antifreeze due to the dangerous conditions that occur with an antifreeze spill on the track. So distilled water and water wetter is a natural replacement.

Z

 

I also live in the same sort of climate and did a similar thing with my new in 2005 Kawasaki VN2000 motorbike

In 2007 with 50.000 k,s on the clock I decided to do the same thing flush the coolant fill it with distilled/deionized water and added water wetter from redline worked great

I did change it again in 2010 back to coolant as I took it on a ride around Australia and some of the places I went it got bellow freezing

In the time the water wetter was in there never had a problem and when I changed it back 3 years later came out same colour it went in not a spec of discoloration

I'm just about to do the same trick to my new bike its only got 2500 k,s on the clock it's never going to be used in my lifetime in a cold climate and I'm keeping it till I die lol

Instead of water wetter I'm using this product https://costeffective.com.au/product...tem-treatment/
Have heard good reports of it extending hose and pump life so I'm up for the challenge
As for the Jaguar it might get driven in a cold climate as I have driven it to the snow a couple time so dexcool will be used

I actually got it from the GM dealer for a better price genuine AC delco coolant

 

The engine control module is designed to operate with the temperatures it came from the factory with. When it comes up to temp it leans out the mixture for maximum fuel efficiency (hence less emission gases).
Compare your fuel mileage with the aftermarket t'stat and factory recommended temp.
Also the modern oils are designed to work with the higher temps in modern vehicles.

Why fool with things

 

because there’s a difference between normal hot range and. “way too hot”.

If my car gets into the “way too hot” range on those triple digit days, I’m not going to sit by idly and wait for head gasket to blow.. if an inexpensive bandaid like water wetter can get the engine back into the everyday hot range, then I’m going to use it.


Z

PS. as far as thermostats go, if my car is being used for short trips, I’d avoid any thermostat that opens under 180.

 

Oh, I am sorry, I thought you were going to re-engineer your car to have it run cooler by using a 180 t'stat.
While not being aware what "way to hot" is I would check the actual coolant temp as It returns into the engine. I use an infrared thermometer for this. Often times the CTS (coolant temp sensor) goes off range and gives an incorrect reading. Replacing it repairs the erroneous high reading. If it really is above 225 constantly at speed, then a proper diagnosis should be made to identify the failed component.

If you are in triple digits air temp., in town at lights with the AC on and the actual coolant temperature is 225 (F) or less I would not be concerned. Once at constant speed it should drop a little. The engineers designed around this scenario and no engine damage should occur.

A 180 t'stat only works at the low end and to restate my post should not be used (anytime) to fix a problem or modify performance on a factory engineered vehicle designed for a 196

Many vehicles today are designed and operate at triple digits air temps with AC on with no adverse problems.

 

No intention to debate here, but all I can say for a fact, and from personal experience, my Jag has not had any issues running H2O and WW mix, and the 180 Tstat. If anything, everything that I have re-engineered or fooled with over the last few years has resulted in an increase in power, and fuel efficiency has not been overly sacrificed.

I also have a dyno video posted of the jag making a few pulls with an ice tank tied into the intercoolers, in fact that’s the most power it made off spray, 390 hp/ 413 to the wheels. Of course, I agree that running a car too cool will cause issues, but going back to the OP’s and several of us other members in very hot climates, a little cooling would not be an issue. And yes, while these cars are designed to run fine in triple digit temperatures, it is proven that forced induction cars perform better when IAT’s are lower. In fact, as you know the engine control module is designed to add timing in cooler conditions. Why? Because its safer; your engine is less prone to pre-ignition/detonation.

Like I mentioned above this is on a case by case basis. Climates, conditions, and objectives are all different. And each of us is going to be the one to reap the benefits or face the consequences of whatever we do with our cars.

 

You need cooler IATs? Cool the charge not the engine lol


The “dummy” coolant gauge moves off the middle at 235-240F for a reason. BMW changed all their cars from running in low 90s on a normal day to 105-115C even in frigid ambients. No cooling system changes were made to the engines other than a hotter stat.

 

To conclude, the radiator arrived last night. I swapped them today and since I was in a hurry I grabbed the Dexcool I already had on hand. I managed to do it without removing opening the a/c system.

Highway temperatures on RealGauge were between 198 and 202°F. When idling in a stoplight the temperature would rise to about 208°F, and when giving it an Italian tune up to 115 mph, the temperature rose to about 213°F.

It seems the new Nissens radiator is working well. I have noticed no leaking. I wish I still had the pressure tester kit to confirm.

Ambient temperature today has been at about 86°F.

 

Must run a thermostat in these engines, because the little "foot" on the bottom of the t'stat blocks off the recirculation pipe. If not blocked off, part of the coolant does not go through the radiator, and the motor just gets hotter.

 

As a race official I'm scrutinizing the race cars every season. All race cars are running on waterwetter with no problems. Never heard a complaint about corrosion issues.