I am completely stumped on this one.

I have a 1997 XK8 Convertible with only 75K Miles and it does not have immobilizer chip key as per the dealer. When I got this car it did not run and battery was dead. I used the key cut by dealer based on VIN to open trunk and charge battery. Car turned over but would not start.

Read the following codes: P0335 Crank Sensor, P1000, and P0706 Transmission Range Sensor.

After clearing the codes and attempting to start again, same problem. Scanned again and only found P0335 so I replaced the Crank Sensor but still no start.

After switching around all brown relays, and checking fuses found one bad fuse unrelated to ignition or fuel. Tried numerous times but no start. Disconnected the battery and touched pos to neg cables together for a few seconds to clear computer.

Still not start. After leaving the car alone for a few hours came out and viola, she started right up and purred like a kitten. Drove her around the block and let her run while I washed her. Put her back in garage and she just shut off.

Have not been able to start her again.

From what I can see, there is voltage to the coils and injectors. When I hook up noid lights I only see one (1) initial pulse when I turn the key and she cranks over, but no pulses after that.

One thing I noticed when trying to start her in neutral, she spun over, but no start and no pulse at all.

So I shifted through all the gears while engine was off, going through all positions in J-Gate, and all shifter lights went out and did not come back on until I placed her in park and shut the key off. When I turn key back on, all shifter lights were working again. So I checked all J-Gate switches and found the D4 switch was not engaging so I bent the arm a little and now it works fine. When I shift through all gears with engine off, all lights work and do not shut off as they did before. I have also checked all J-Gate switches for continuity and they are all functioning and adjusted correctly.

I tested the Transmission Rotary Switch as per Jaguar manual and L1, L2, L3, L4 all measure between 140-169 Ohms and make or break contact in their respective positions as indicated in tech briefing. When the rotary switch connector is disconnected, the shifter lights do not work, so I believe it is most likely ok, but not sure.

Oh one last thing, it appears some jackass (No it wasn't me, since I know better) may have tried to start the car with a jumper box on Drivers Side Engine Compartment Fuse Box since I could smell burnt electrical in that area. When I disassembled it, I found a corner of the pc board was completely burned away and mia. So I got a new fuse box, but still no start.

Sorry about all the info, but more is usually better.

I really appreciate any help you could give.

Thanks,

Chuck

1997 XK8 Convertible
2001 XK8 Convertible

 

Welcome to the Forum. Chuck.
Please take time to visit
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
and introduce yourself so we can all say 'Hello'.

You've done a very comprehensive job there.
I'd press on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (near the dipstick) to rule out fuel pressure.
Also I couldn't see how you know you're getting a spark.
Then we can concentrate on the no fuel injector problem.
Obviously something intermittent.
When you say 'she just shut off' do you mean the engine stopped by itself?

 

I've read through your detailed troubleshooting a couple of times and still come back to this first part.

Has the key chip / ignition switch exciter ring pairing system been deactivated or bypassed?

Graham

 

Graham,
The odd thing is he said it started once sweet as a nut.

 

Graham, my 97 does not have a key chip, so his most likely does not either.

 

Useful to know.

I'd read the US security system is configured differently from European setup (options and not just frequency) but didn't know the key chip and ignition switch exciter were not fitted on the early US cars.

Graham

 

Thank you all very much for your replies.

I do have 41 PSI of Fuel Pressure at the Schrader valve.

I have one NOID Light plugged into a coil, and also one NOID Light on a injector, so I know exactly what is firing and what is not firing.

I have 12V at coils, but no (0) pulse on crank.

I have 12V at the injectors, and one (1) pulse on crank.

It appears the ECM is not telling them to fire.

I checked all relays after switching them around to see if any were bad, but they are all clicking and working correctly.

I measured the Transmission Rotary Switch again and here are the meter readings

L1 = 147 Ohms
L2 = 143 Ohms
L3 = 170 Ohms (Could this slight difference be a problem?)
L4 = 139 Ohms

All lights on shifter are now working properly after I fixed the D4 Switch.

I have read somewhere in the Forums where someone had a similar problem of only one injector pulse upon cranking the engine over, but if I remember correctly he had spark, which I do not.

I would like to check the power to the Ignition Modules next, but do not know where they are, and also need to know how to test the new Crank Sensor I installed?

I drove the car, and left it running for 30 minutes in my driveway while I washed it. When I drove into garage it was fine.

Now that I think about it, when I shifted into reverse to move her over in the garage and then shifted into drive and pulled forward again, that is when she shut off.

*** UPDATE *** I decided to use my NOID Light on the Transmission Rotary Switch just for the hell of it to see if the are any pulses there. I plugged into Black (Com) and Slate (L1), turned the key and she started right up for two (2) seconds then shut off.

Maybe it is that stupid Rotary Switch after all???

Thank you all very much for your help.

Chuck

 

Here is another update.

Since I used my NOID Light on Transmission Rotary Switch and she fired up for two (2) Seconds I decided to check the codes.

Now I have four (4) Codes and they are:
P0335 - Crank Sensor
P1000
P0706 - Transmission Range Sensor
P1797 - CAN TCM/ECM Circut Malfunction

Since it is showing a communication error and now a crank sensor which is brand new, I am wondering if there is a bad connection in the harness plugs somewhere?]

Thanks

Chuck

 

Here's the possible causes from the Jaguar DTC list:

P0335
CKPS circuit malfunction
Possible Causes
1. CKPS disconnected
2. CKPS gap incorrect / foreign matter on sensor face
3. CKPS sensing circuit open circuit, short circuit to ground, short circuit to high voltage
4. CKPS failure

P0706
Rotary switch and/or D - 4 switch malfunction
Possible Causes
1. Selector cable adjustment / installation incorrect
2. D – 4 switch dislocated
3. D – 4 switch to TCM circuit open circuit or short circuit to ground
4. D – 4 switch failure
5. Rotary switch to TCM circuit open circuit or short circuit to ground
6. Rotary switch failure

P1797
CAN ECM token message missing
Possible Causes
1. CAN open circuit fault – ECM to TCM
2. CAN short circuit fault
3. ECM failure
4. TCM failure

With a new CKPS, it eliminates all but a harness fault for P0335.

Graham

 

Thanks so much for the info.

My questions are:

1) How can I test the CKPS?

2) Should there be any type of voltage to any of the CKPS wires?

3) What should the resistance be between the CKPS wires?

4) What is the acceptable range of values for the CKPS in Ohms?

5) What are the acceptable values in Ohms for the Transmission Rotary Switch between Black wire and L1, L2, L3, L4?

6) Should there be any type of voltage to any of the Transmission Rotary Switch wires and what voltage, since the manual says Low for Off, and High for On?

7) Where are the Ignition Modules located?

If I have this info I think I can nail it down.

Thanks,

Chuck

 

You really need to download JTIS from the HOW-TO's.
All of the info you need is in there eg for testing the CKP
If the answer to each question is 'Yes' then go to the next one
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position
.Check the CKP sensor for correct installation.
Is the CKP sensor correctly installed?
N INSTALL the CKP sensor correctly.
Reconnect the sensor.
CLEAR the DTCs.

TEST the system for normal operation.
CHECK THE CKP SENSOR FOR DEBRIS
Remove the CKP sensor and inspect for debris.
Is the CKP sensor free of debris?
N CLEAN the sensor and wheel.
INSTALL the sensor.
Reconnect the sensor.
CLEAR the DTCs.

TEST the system for normal operation.
CHECK THE CKP SENSOR SENSING CIRCUIT FOR HIGH RESISTANCE
Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
Disconnect the ECM electrical connector, EM80.
Disconnect the CKP sensor electrical connector, PI17.
Measure the resistance between PI17, pin 02 (Y) and EM80, pin 36 (Y).
Is the resistance greater than 5 ohms?
Y REPAIR the high resistance circuit.
For additional information, refer to the wiring diagrams.

CLEAR the DTC.
TEST the system for normal operation.
CHECK THE CKP SENSOR SENSING CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO HIGH VOLTAGE
Reconnect the battery negative terminal
.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Measure the voltage between PI17, pin 02 (Y) and GROUND
Is the voltage greater than 3 volts?
Y REPAIR the short circuit to high voltage.
For additional information, refer to the wiring diagrams.

CLEAR the DTC.
TEST the system for normal operation.
CHECK THE CKP SENSOR SENSING CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.Measure the resistance between PI17, pin 02 (Y) and GROUND.
Is the resistance less than 10,000 ohms?
Y REPAIR the short circuit to GROUND.
For additional information, refer to the wiring diagrams.

CLEAR the DTC. TEST the system for normal operation.
CHECK THE CKP SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT FOR HIGH RESISTANCE
Measure the resistance between PI17, pin 01 (P) and EM80, pin 37 (P).
Is the resistance greater than 5 ohms?
Y REPAIR the high resistance circuit.
For additional information, refer to the wiring diagrams.

CLEAR the DTC. TEST the system for normal operation.
INSTALL a new CKP sensor.
CLEAR the DTC.
TEST the system for normal operation.

The ignition modules are part of the ECM - again you get very comprehensive wiring diagrams in JTIS.

 

Without looking it up; didn't the early AJ26 cars have two ignition modules mounted on the firewall? Or was that only the R?

 

I'm basing my statement on the 2004 XKR - so I could be wrong - often am !!

 

Thank you very much. I have JTIS but unfortunately it does not work on Mac computers which is why I'm posting here. I will try the steps you outlined and see what happens thank you very much have a great day Chuck

 

Someone on the Forum was offering JTIS as a JPEG - of course I can't find the post!
There's an alternative
Itronix GoBook IX260+ III 12.1" Laptop Touchscreen LCD Screen | eBay
that can live in the boot!
If you're stuck I can grab bits of JTIS as jpg's or ask Graham (GGG) nicely - he's the king on doing this.
See how you do with the CKPS.

 

Pull the electrical connector to the tranny and clean both sides. Verify that the harness from the tranny to the TCM is not damaged. This is a common problem in the 5HP25. These harnesses were made short aand sometimes they short out.

 

Performed all of the test you prescribed and everything seems OK.

Here is what I did:

1) .03 VDC to the CKPS

2) No shorts to ground in CKPS wiring

3) Wiring to ECM from each CKPS wire measures 5 Ohms

4) Rotary switch checks out in all positions and shifter lights work properly, also wiring cable looks good with plenty of length and no visible damage.

5) No DTC codes at this time, other than P1000

6) After disconnecting the battery and performing tests, I reconnected and got one injector pulse and a quick sputter like she wanted to start, but no pulses after that.

7) I checked all wiring and connectors, and cleaned/lubed the contacts with electronic cleaner lube. They all look super clean with no corrosion.

8) "Stability Control" error on dash

I know it has got to be something simple, I just wish I knew what.

Thanks a million for your help.

Chuck

 

UPDATE: One thing I forgot to mention was that when I try to start in Neutral it spins over but does not give the one injector pulse like it does in drive.

 

When did you start getting the 'Stability Control' error?
What state is the battery in?
hang on -
You shouldn't be able to start in Drive - do you mean Park?

 

UPDATE: Sorry I meant Park. There is on more test i can do. I tested all contacts of Rotary switch disconnected for proper continuity in park only.

I think i will try the tests with it connected and follow chart for High/Low voltage on each terminal as per the chart in JTIS.

It may be possible there is an electronic problem internally in rotary switch? Or is the rotary switch literally just a mechanical multiposition switch?

I just noticed a tag inside Drivers door jam and it says: Jaguar Authorized Modification. Reflash S819/S471. Change Authority: Emissions S819/S471. Date: 6/25/1999

Hmm I wonder if that reflash screwed up the computer?

Also I noticed the valve covers have been written on with year and model (jaguar was misspelled) so i wonder if this engine has been changed? It seems like there is a lot of oil under pan and frame for a car wih only 75k miles. Mmy 2001 Xk8 had 86k when I sold her and it was dry underneath.