Hey Everyone,

Long time no post, first after replacing thermostat housing and flushing out
the everything, all is well. These jags are a pain to work on!! One after running
for a while the low coolant light comes on, and will go off after 5 or 10 mins.

Temp Gage stays and the same place, mid way. Also both in an out hoses blow
up looking like there gonna explode. No leaks or smell, heat an air works fine.
When it's cooled down, ( overnight ) I check the reserve tank, and it's about
an inch low. and both hoses are sucked up like nothing is in them. I am going
to replace both of them. I squeeze on them, and coolant will overflow in tank.

Anyone have any ideals?

Second, there was no gaskets in the air intake manna-fold. when I stop by a
and talked with a pro, he could hear air seeping out, and asked if it was bogon
down while driving, it's not, but when in park, it will stall. He called a parts
store and showed me a blueish like gasket, round about 5 to 6" in dia. When
I ordered from online, using the part # I have on file, there not round.

There about 4x2" long, with a hump on one side. Before I get into a all day
job, are these the right ones? I can add a pic if needed. Thanks in advance
for any input.. Have a Great day!! ( :

 

Lots of things to comment on. The temp. gauge will read mid scale until you fatally overheat. Look into Realgauge mod or elm 327 for the smartphone. I use Ultagauge to monitor temp.

I suspect the thermostat is not opening, they fail in closed position, but it could be the water pump. May also be the cover to the tank.

The blueish gasket is for the throttle body to manifold.The part you want is NJA3554AA to VIN042775 or NJA3553AA from VIN A00083 to A30644.

 

1st think is install RealGauge. IfI can do it, anyone can.

 

The cooling system under normal operation will cause the fluid to expand as the coolant comes up to temperature (expanding hoses). When the fouid cools down it creates a vacuum (collapsing hoses). The coolant cap is designed to allow the expanded fluid to go to the overflow tank (mounted in the fender) and when the vacuum occurs the cap allows the fluid in the overflow tan to return to the system.
If you are positive that you installed the new thermostat with the WIGGLE Pin opening at the top then most likely you need a new coolant cap. Soft coolant hose should also be replaced but that is due to age and the thermal cycling.

 

Thanks RJ,

I did download the UltraGauge app, but in the past I was not able to pair my phone, guess I need the Bluetooth adapter. I am going to try and pair my iPad today, being a 99, I’ll bet it won’t pair, thus I’ll need the adapter.

As for the pump, is there a way to test if it’s working?

 

Thanks avern1,

That makes a lot of sense with the hoses, I did replace the cap with a new one, but it broke after about a week. I cleaned my old one, W-D it to make sure it moves smoothly, and it does.

As for the thermostat, it was supposed to be new, and when I inspected it, it did seem to function okay. You have me stumped with the WIGGLE Pin opening at the top, what do you mean by that? If you mean the position it’s placed in the housing, then I understand, but it did seem to open and close before I installed..

The hoses will be replaced as soon as funds are available.. Thanks!

 

The thermostat on the perimeter has a small hole drilled in it and in the hole is a T-Shape pin that just wiggles around no sealing action. The hole is to be at the top (12 O'Clock) position when the thermostat is installed. It allows air to bleed out of system and allows a minimal bypass action when thermostat is closed ( cool engine).
I would think that with bulging hoses and a new thermostat that the pump is working. Another hint also when filling the cooling system from repair manually set the heater control to HI and set the fan on high and let it run for a short time. This will prevent an air bubble from forming in heater core and help with bleeding air out of the system.