could use some help with these error codes.... They are for the door locking system, where and how do i fix these,,,,,,,, any help would be appreiciated....... thanks

 

Do you have any symptoms? Sometimes certain codes get set during service and will sit there indefinitely unless they are cleared.

 

I show U1041 as SCP (J1850) Invalid or Missing Data for Vehicle Speed & U1135 as SCP (J1850) Invalid or Missing Data for Ignition Switch / Starter. How did you get the codes? The “U” is a network trouble code.

 

hi guys been awhile,,,,,,, well i finally bought an AE scanner to elimate some of my problems..... well my fob never has worked since the day i bought the car , I can lock the unit with my key and none of the doors will lock i can hear the passenger door trying but will not lock with either method. The scanner run gave me these codes now i need your help to see if i can get my fob and door locks working........

 

I am unable to help with the programming of the remote. It is possible that all you need for the passenger lock is just a little lubrication or adjustment of the linkage. I would spray a LITTLE WD-40 in the latch and see what takes place. This is a link to a latch I replaced a switch on Jaguar Door Latch Repair XK8 I hope it helps.

 

This code indicates a problem in the Standard Corporate Protocol multidrop network! It joins the body processor, door control module, security locking module, instrument pack and seat modules with a set of balanced wires. First check the SRS fuse in the drivers dash fuse box, then try to erase the codes. If that doesn't work , you will need to trace the wires between the networks to find a possible damaged harness. White XKR has addressed this issue in the past, maybe he will pick up on it.

 

We can go around in circles for days with this kind of problem....and it usually ends up being something really simple.

Lets get some basics out of the way:
-Are there any messages on the speedo display?
-What is your battery voltage measured at the battery?
-Try clearing the codes and see which ones come back after a short drive and trying to operate the doors.
-Each fusebox has a heavy power feed bolted to it....make sure the nuts on each of the cable lugs in each fusebox is tight.
-Are there any electric items misbehaving besides the doors?

 

nothing else is freaking out,,, i clear the codes an they come right back. ive reset the fob and i can hear both doors clicking trying to lock but cant. The car battery is brand new and working everything just fine. This has been a problem ever since i bought the car . Finally ive decided to fix it. I will check the srs fuse and all connections ... but i have checked every fuse on this car and replace every one that was bad..... So as u know these cars can be something else..... Thiers nothing showing in the dash either under the rpm gauge or in the message center. Fob will set the alarm but not lock the doors. Key will lock drivers door but will not lock the passenger door. Just sits thier a clicks ........

 

OK, thanks, that eliminates a lot of stuff.

When seated in the car, if you push in the driver side handle to lock the driver door, will the passenger door then also lock?

 

no it dosent, only the drivers door locks, the passenger will only lock if you do it your self. checked all the fuses again and none bad. fob tries to lock both doors the inside handles move a little but cant lock. any and all ideas are welcome here..... cause im lost,,,,,, willing to try anything,

 

OK...my suspicion is the door locking relay is bad.

I think the codes you are getting are 'red herrings' which I have found you sometimes get with the AE scanner on pre-2003 cars.

Here is a description posted a while back by Spurlee on how to access the door locking relay:

The door locking relay (p/n LNA6705 AB "Micro relay" black) is located behind the passengers lower facia at the far right. Gain access by removing the glove box (easy, just watch for the wires for the interior box light when removing. Only remove the 2 outermost lower hex screws, not all 4).

The relay you want is in a 2-relay holder far outboard behind a larger single relay.(Remove the larger relay for easier access to the 2 relay holder.) Remove the holder from it's locating tab for easier access to the door locking relay itself.The door locking relay is the one serving theYR,YG,B,NR,NR wire set. (N=Brown)

Replace the relay and reinstall the holder on it's tab. Reinsert the larger relay and reinstall glove box.

Let me add, to test the theory you can swap the door relay with the other small relay (the air-conditioning isolate relay) next to it temporarily. If the locks start working, you found your culprit.

 

will give that a try, sounds like i might just get lucky,,,,, thanks for all your help,,,,,,, will let u know what happens ..........

 

Replaced both relays, doors still just click . both doors click but handles dont move . Held the handle in hand while door clicking and cant feel the clicking in the handles . Wondering if something is not connected in the door. I guess the next thing is to take a door cover off and see whats going on inside... If your guys have any other ideas please let me know.

 

Took door panels off and still cant tell what is wrong,. everything looks good but all doors do is click, can lock drivers side with the key but it wont lock the passengers side..... sprayed wd 40 in key hole ,,,hopeing to get lucky but to no avail, so any other ideas if so let me know

 

I agree it sounds like something is disconnected in the door. Or possibly the solenoid that activates the lock mechanism is jammed. I have two videos that might help. The "How to Remove Door Panel" video will help you get the door panel off (it sound like you've already done that, though), and the video on how to replace the door latch mechanism will help you get the latch out to examine it. Click the link down in my signature to get to my Youtube channel, and from there you can scroll up and down to find the correct videos.

Since the relay swap didn't fix anything and you can hear something making noise in the door, I'm guessing the problem is going to be with the solenoid on the lock mechanism itself. Unfortunately, there's no easy way to get lube to it without removing the whole latch. It's not that difficult, though. Just remember to disconnect the battery, otherwise you might have to type with a single hand when you wrap up this thread.

 

I agree with Sam...I think it is one of the door latch motors or one of the switches in one of the door lock mechanisms.

Here is Gus's link on Door latch diassembly: Jaguar Door Latch Repair XK8

I think you should remove the door latch mechanism (I guess I would try the drivers door first) and check each switch and the lock motor for proper operation.

I still think the fault codes are unrelated.

 

You think he should start in the driver's door? I was thinking that since he's hearing a noise in the passenger door, it's obviously getting its signal.

It would be easy enough to check. He just needs to identify which wires unlock the door and put 12v on them momentarily. If the door unlocks then he knows the problem is somewhere else.

rsigue, what year is your car? There might be some wire color differences between model years.

 

He was hearing the clicking in both doors.

 

Ah... I just went and re-read everything. I thought he was just having a problem with the passenger door.

 

When i get back from vacation i will try that,,,, its just funny how both door try to lock but cant,,,,,,, i can hear the clicking noise in both doors but can feel any movement , when i touch the handle it self,,, well i will take one unit down ,,,,,,, will get back with u guys in a week,,,,, thanks again for your suggestions and help