With reference to a previous thread of mine regarding inner tire wear and steering wheel shaking when under moderate braking:


Today I started the task of removing the shocks and upper control arms so I can replace the CA bushings and the shocks.


Let me tell you......


Getting the control arm pivot or shaft bolt out is one BIG PITA!!!....at least on my '06 XK8.


Both sides had the same problem in that the aft forward bushing face washer jamed-up on the bolt. On the driver's side I was able to pound the bolt through but not even close on the passenger side....had to cut the bolt.


I have no idea how these bushing ever were installed as the bolt would not pass through. Perhaps if the bolt was frozen in liquid Nitrogen or something to shrink it,....IDK. No amount of pounding was going to get the bolt through that bushing on the passenger side.


There was no visibile corrosion or anything like that...it is like either the washer shrunk or the last 1/3 of the bolt grew in diameter.


Anyways now I have to get at least one replacement bolt and I may just get two. I am still waiting for the bushings to show-up anyways, been 4 weeks and still not arrived from GB.


So if anyone else tackles this little ole task....good luck is all I can say. My back and arms are very tired.


Later.

 

heat and WD40 are usually what it takes. Cutting it off is an absolute last resort as now you have nothing to turn it with. Make sure you clean the center section of the bolt and then heat it taking care not to damage the ali. Let it cool and soak with WD40, Leave overnight and repeat a few times. Make sure you taper the end you are going to hit as it will swell as you pound it and it will never come off. If you had left it in one piece, a breaker bar and a length of tube should be enough to turn it. If when you apply force the bolt isnt twisting or shearing, and the socket isnt turning on the head, then basically you aint applying enough force! Like I said, you now have no choice but to beat it with a hammer and you may end up taking the subframe off and get it machined out

 

Let me add additional details:
Driver's side: I was able to tap the bolt from the threaded end until this end went into the wishbone/control arm. I then used a prybar against the bolt head and drove the bolt forward and then I tapped the bolt back into place spraying everywhere with WD40. After 30 minutes I was able to drive the bolt all the way out.


Passenger side: With my new found knowledge of what it takes to get the bolt out I started on this one. However this bolt slide easily with just easy taps on the threaded end and I was able to pull the bolt by hand to a point where the threads were just past the open area in the subframe. I once again used the prybar against the bolt head but after another 30 minutes of pounding and lots of WD40, turning the bolt, reversing direction, I finally cut the rubber bushing to find the one washer that was stuck/jammed. I tried to cut this washer but there was not enough room and that is when I went to the last resort and cut the bolt.
Afterwards I easliy pulled the head section of the bolt out and then used a drift to push the threaded section out the other way.


Everything is out and now I just need to get a replacement wishbone fulcrum bolt which I am finding is rather expensive from Jag part houses. Is there anything "special" about this bolt? Is is a uniform diameter or is there a taper to it?

 

Not wishing to jump in here after the problem is solved, I do see where it's taking four weeks to get your upper pivot bolt from the UK. My first time dealing with Jagbits only required a few days for rear alignment shims.

Link posted below.

Jaguar Parts - Jaguar Control Arms, Shafts & Bushings

Jip

 

Actually taking four weeks to get the poly wishbone bushings from the UK; the fulcrum bolt I just ordered on 10/24 will arrive on 10/28 at a total cost of $67 USD. Pretty darn expensive for bolt!!


I did check Jagbits for the bolt, just found it a bit cheaper elsewhere.


But thanks for the response.