VVT Problem (code P-1396)
#1
VVT Problem (code P-1396)
Howdy Folks!!...
Well, here I am again. After replacing the VVT selinoids and still getting the "check engine" light, I had another shop throw their hat in the ring to see if they could diagnose my engine problem. So we checked out all the electrics and wires. Hooked a bulb up to the connecter plug (VVT selinoid), ran it up through the hood and secured it with the wiper blade, and then after resetting the "check engine" light, took her for a spin. The light glowed brightly during VVT operation. The light stayed off so I took her home and drove around for a couple of hours to see if the light would come on. Failing to get a light, I started the car each morning after and let it run for a few minutes to see if the light would glow... it didn't. Thinking that it might be OK, the third morning, after starting I pulled her out for a spin. The light came on after I started to drive away. So I now know that it can't be the selinoids (both brand new) the wiring is good as are the connections and juice to the wiring and connectors. That leaves what??? low oil pressure to the "B" bank (code is P-1396)?? The apperatus that the VVT selinoids connect to that adjusts the oil pressure or whatever that adjusts the cams?? What is that part called? I think Bimmers call it a "Vannis"? Anybody have any ideas?? I'm pulling what hair I have left out trying to fix this critter.
Thanks again for your replies
Fretfull Freddie
Well, here I am again. After replacing the VVT selinoids and still getting the "check engine" light, I had another shop throw their hat in the ring to see if they could diagnose my engine problem. So we checked out all the electrics and wires. Hooked a bulb up to the connecter plug (VVT selinoid), ran it up through the hood and secured it with the wiper blade, and then after resetting the "check engine" light, took her for a spin. The light glowed brightly during VVT operation. The light stayed off so I took her home and drove around for a couple of hours to see if the light would come on. Failing to get a light, I started the car each morning after and let it run for a few minutes to see if the light would glow... it didn't. Thinking that it might be OK, the third morning, after starting I pulled her out for a spin. The light came on after I started to drive away. So I now know that it can't be the selinoids (both brand new) the wiring is good as are the connections and juice to the wiring and connectors. That leaves what??? low oil pressure to the "B" bank (code is P-1396)?? The apperatus that the VVT selinoids connect to that adjusts the oil pressure or whatever that adjusts the cams?? What is that part called? I think Bimmers call it a "Vannis"? Anybody have any ideas?? I'm pulling what hair I have left out trying to fix this critter.
Thanks again for your replies
Fretfull Freddie
#2
I looked up the P1396 code again in the JTIS and it only points to the VVT solenoids, wiring, camshaft failure and oil pressure.
I looked up the P1396 code on another code chart I had and it added Crank Position Sensor and Cam Position Sensor and their related wiring to the list.
Send me a PM with you direct email address and I will send you the charts.
If I remember correctly, this problem began when you had someone change out your tensioners. That work may have disturbed the Cam Position Sensor. Have you looked there?
I looked up the P1396 code on another code chart I had and it added Crank Position Sensor and Cam Position Sensor and their related wiring to the list.
Send me a PM with you direct email address and I will send you the charts.
If I remember correctly, this problem began when you had someone change out your tensioners. That work may have disturbed the Cam Position Sensor. Have you looked there?
#3
Fred has been trying to deal with the P1396 (B bank VVT solenoid) left over from having his tensioners replaced on his '98 XK8 (AJ26). The AJ26 only has an on/off operation of the VVT. Initially diagnosed bent electrical connectors on the VVT solenoids and replaced them with new ones and still gets P1396. Verified that he is getting electrical operation to the solenoids with a light wired in parallel. Clears the code and it returns after the appropriate drive cycles.
The repair tree associated with this code identifies:
Wiring ECM to solenoid
Solenoid
Oil supply fault
VVT unit fault
Camshaft Drive Fault
Crank position sensor circuit fault
Cam position sensor circuit fault
There was a TSB on VVT diagnostic (303-08 AUG 97 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid - DTC P1396 Diagnosis). Anyone have a copy of that document?
About the only VVT failures discussed on the forums seems to be oil related. Since the fault originated with the tensioner replacement I keep looking there.
How do you get the VVT to operate with your head under the hood? JTIS says rapid acceleration.
Anyone got any other suggestions?
The repair tree associated with this code identifies:
Wiring ECM to solenoid
Solenoid
Oil supply fault
VVT unit fault
Camshaft Drive Fault
Crank position sensor circuit fault
Cam position sensor circuit fault
There was a TSB on VVT diagnostic (303-08 AUG 97 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid - DTC P1396 Diagnosis). Anyone have a copy of that document?
About the only VVT failures discussed on the forums seems to be oil related. Since the fault originated with the tensioner replacement I keep looking there.
How do you get the VVT to operate with your head under the hood? JTIS says rapid acceleration.
Anyone got any other suggestions?
#4
When the engine is cold. VVT will initiate at about 1000 rpm and you'll definitely hear the VVT(s) actuate with a distinct click as the increased oil pressure engages the spirals to advance the cams. However, after what you have already done, I don't think it is the VVT.
Last edited by GordoCatCar; 10-11-2009 at 09:48 PM.
#5
Join Date: Sep 2008
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I would have thrown in 50weight oil along time ago, as clearances within the motor open up, theres goes sifficient oil pressure and proper VVT operation. I never ever replace anything on customer cars without a good engine oil flush and switch to thicker oil. Cheap and I have yet to see one return with that code..
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SeanECE (11-28-2012)
#6
I would have thrown in 50weight oil along time ago, as clearances within the motor open up, theres goes sifficient oil pressure and proper VVT operation. I never ever replace anything on customer cars without a good engine oil flush and switch to thicker oil. Cheap and I have yet to see one return with that code..
i have 5w30 castrol synthetic oil now, 71k miles on an 04 xj8.
what oil should i replaced this with, 10w30 synthetic ? 5w40 ?
thanks in advance
#7
I would have thrown in 50weight oil along time ago, as clearances within the motor open up, theres goes sifficient oil pressure and proper VVT operation. I never ever replace anything on customer cars without a good engine oil flush and switch to thicker oil. Cheap and I have yet to see one return with that code..
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#8
I don't remember if I ever updated this thread... but here goes. It seemed that the outfit that did my tensonners left the timing on both cams off a few degrees. After taking my Jag to a bonafide Jag master technician (the fellow I should have gone to in the beginning, but I thought I could do it on th' Cheap...) They discovered the problem and fixed it. The problem was that they had to tear it down again... so more $$$$. Should I ever sell her...I'll have a large list of work done to her. It will save the prospective new owner alot of Piasters...;>)))
Drive On !!
Fast Freddie
Drive On !!
Fast Freddie
#10
AFAIK you lock the cam and crank at a couple of degrees before the Top Dead Center position using with the pin in the bell housing access opening to locate the flexplate. Then both cams are locked down on their flats with the tensioner tool. The chain is installed, with the slack in the chain preloaded or tensioned per the instructions. Once this is accomplished, all parts are in their proper baseline positions. When the car is started, the computer sets the actual timing based on the cam sensor data. I do not think there is an independent adjustment for static timing.
Last edited by GordoCatCar; 01-29-2011 at 09:14 PM.
#12
#13
Hi folks! I'am from Poland, so you must forgive me for my eventual language errors. My problem is similar as your's. After tensioner job in my 1998 XJ8 with Aj26 engine, I'll have problem with code # p1396. I don't have any check engine light on console, the error appears only when I check my Jag by OBD obvious p1396 disappear only when engine temperature goes up, but when it goes down the problem returns. I have checked sellenoid from block B, and I have discovered that when it is cold it has got half less resistance than selenoind from block A. So I thought that's a problem.
I have mentioned on new sellonoid, but p1396 doesn't appear! It is still the same. I have instructions, DTCP 1396( VVTS olenoid Malfunction B bank) -Diagnosiasnd Repair in PDF, but don't know If It will help?I'll have question. If anybody has advised with p1396 and how dangerous is It?My engine work's very well, goes like a rocket and works very smoothly.
I have mentioned on new sellonoid, but p1396 doesn't appear! It is still the same. I have instructions, DTCP 1396( VVTS olenoid Malfunction B bank) -Diagnosiasnd Repair in PDF, but don't know If It will help?I'll have question. If anybody has advised with p1396 and how dangerous is It?My engine work's very well, goes like a rocket and works very smoothly.
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smokphattys (03-17-2011)
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ok so far so good. thanks to your info pawel, i found the reluctor to be out a little bit as the bulletin suggested and made the necessary adjustment. cleared the code and took it for a couple test drives, have now put about 100km since the adjustment and no light. im not sure how long jaguar waits before re-checking the systems but hopefully its fixed. will update if the light comes back. the job itself was actually quite easy and took less than an hour