Decided to try to clean my engine today having taken the inlet manifold off and duct taped the manifold holes to keep water out.
Some of the duct tape didn't do it's job, and after cleaning the centre of the block and removing the tape, some of the valve bores had water in them.
So i did the only thing i could think of, and dug out a syringe i bought 20 years ago to inject worms with air ( it's a fishing thing, gives you pop-up worms), and syringed as much water as i could out of the valve bores.
I got all the water a syringe could pick up, which left no puddles, but the back of the valve seats still looked slightly damp.

Would it be a good idea (or not) to spray some WD40 down the bores to absorb any remaining water?

And does this mean i have to take the head off now and check for water?

 

The danger would be if you'd got water into an open inlet valve. If there was enough water in the cylinder it could cause serious damage when it didn't compress at TDC.

Wait for another opinion but I would put the inlet manifold back on, take out all the spark plugs and turn the engine over for a minute or so. That will blow any water out of the cylinders.
Check the plugs aren't wet, put them back and DON'T do it again !!

 

+ 1

I think this is the best solution. By the way, I did a similar cleaning a few months ago, with my inlet manifold off. I taped over the inlet bores as well, but just used spray cleaner and lots of paper towels...no garden hose!

I think if you follow SteveinFrance's advice, you'll be fine.

 

+1
I have used that procedure on an Alfa after someone (not me for a change) forgot to put the plugs in before washing the engine compartment.
RJ_____________
97 XK8 Conv 85K mi

 

So go for it and let us know if you're OK

 

Once you are back up and running, an oil change and new oil filter would be a really good idea.

 

Well i put the manifold back on, with the bottom half of the throttle body attached to it.
I pulled all the plugs and 6 came up dry, but with the rearmost one on each bank wet. Then i turned the starter in 3 (15-20 second) bursts.

No water came flying out of the plug holes, but the cylinders are offset from vertical by 30 degrees or more, so i couldn't tell if water was travelling up the plug hole bores and falling back in to the cylinder before i could peer down the hole.
I had a look down the plug holes with a small telescopic torch and saw that some of the piston heads looked shiny like they were damp, but at this stage more than that i can't tell.
Should have collared someone to turn the starter while i peered down the bores really.
I'll have a go at the latter tomorrow if i can.

Thanks fellas, i wish i had a more conclusive answer for you.

I won't be washing my block again in a rush

Mind you it came up quite well considering what it was like.

 

If you've turned the engine over that much you're quite safe to put the plugs back in and start up.
It needs enough water in the cylinder to fill the combustion chamber in order to blow up your engine and it comes out with considerable force.
If you are going to peer down the plug 'oles WEAR GOGGLES !!

 

Rofl.

You guys must think i'm a real scatter brain.

And WhiteXKR thinks i used a garden hose lol.

Edit: Apologies WhiteXKR, it was The Coupe that mentioned the garden hose.

Actually you're not far off, i do have my moments, but i'd settle for an eyeful of water just to know my bores were ok.

As long as it was my right eye, the left ones a bit delicate already, but i just had the stitches out today

Seriously, i have Nikasil bores, and whatever got into the cylinders would have been a mixture of dirty water and acidic alloy cleaner.
The water is bad enough, but the acid on Nikasil bores worries me as well.

What do you think of pouring petrol down the bores to fill the cylinders, and putting rags down the spark plug bores to catch the fuel so i can turn it over again to mix the fuel with any acid and dilute the acid?

The petrol won't fill the cylinders completely with the plugs out due to the angle of the heads. but the idea is just to dilute the acid without using any more water.

Problem is i don't know yet if the syringe is long enough to get down the plug holes to extract any excess mixture, the idea being that if it is, i could put the plugs back in and spray some WD40 onto the plugs down the plug bores to dilute the fumes, because the plug bores would by then stink of petrol.

Another wacky and dangerous idea?

 

Put a teaspoon of motor oil in each bore to improve startup lubrication. Use clean and dry plugs, no WD-40, no gas, no other foreign liquids. Run the car until it gets up to temperature, with the dipstick tube slightly unseated to let any possible steam escape.

Then change the oil and filter. To be really safe, change it again in a couple of weeks.

 

Motor oil

Why didn't i think of that?

Top man WhiteXKR, no flammable fumes and will serve to dilute any acid.

I've got no idea how much water got in there, i don't think it was much, and i think what stopped most of it was that the valves on both inside banks seemed to be in a fairly upward position, ie: retracted into their valve bores.

That's not the case now, having turned it over to expel water, on two cylinders now the valves seats extend down from their bores, so you can see a gap between the valve seat and it's shaft/bore, meaning fluids would pour straight into those two cylinders.

I won't be able to start it up for at least a week, probably two, because i'm taking it apart to fit new chains.

But if it ever starts when i've done the chains i'll take your advice about the oil change and loose dipstick as well.

Your a star, i'm going to oil my bores.

Edit: have corrected the error in post 9 Re: the garden hose.

 

[quote=Roadhogg;545244]...............I won't be able to start it up for at least a week, probably two, because i'm taking it apart to fit new chains......./quote]

Can you still turn it over or has the dismantling proceeded too far?

If not, get some oil in the bores and give it a short spin on the starter to spread the oil. You'd be amazed how quickly cylinder walls and the top piston ring can rust.

Graham

 

I can still turn it over, but theres no chance of it starting in it's current state.
I've put what amounts to about 3 teaspoons of oil in each cylinder, mainly because the syringe wasn't long enough and i ended up just pouring some down the plug holes, which have a lip at the bottom.

I then turned it over for about half a minute in total.

I've re-taped the manifold holes to try to keep air and any debris out, and i'm contemplating pouring some petrol in as well to replace air in the cylinders.

Still pondering the petrol, because if any of the valves stop in the down position it's going to stink of petrol with just tape over the intake manifold holes.
Might be better than rusty rings though.

 

You should be good with the oil.
We don't want to be reading about your fire in a couple of days. :-)

 

Lol

If you don't hear from me anymore you'll know i was in it when it went up like a Christmas

 

I really wouldn't use petrol. All it will do is wash off the oil you've lovingly distributed in the bores.
Let us know when you're up + running again, good luck.

 

Didn't use petrol, but i did spray some maintenance spray down the manifold holes to coat the back of the valve seats.

Hopefully it will act as a rust inhibitor for the valves.

 

Marine supply places sell fogging oil just for engine storage. I suggest using this as it is meant for the job.

 

Hi Roadhogg,
sounds like you could do without an explosion whilst replaceing timming chains. A job I keep putting off, If you are doing primary chains and tensioners, how is it going, Have you removed the crank pulley ?. how difficult did you find the removal of it. Any advice appreciated.

Best Wishes

stephen

 

Hi steveeasy,
i haven't removed the crank pulley yet, and may settle in the short term for just doing the secondary tensioners and putting it back together temporarily just so i can start it up and burn the water out of the bores.
I only got the timing chain kit through the post yesterday, but there's a few things i still haven't got (manifold gaskets, silicone sealant and a torque wrench) and wasn't planning on having to rush until i decided to wash it lol.

I almost wish i hadn't bothered now (washing it).

If i do the primaries in the next few weeks, ( because at the moment i'm erring towards putting it back together) i'll let you know if i have trouble with the crank pulley.
What i can say is that getting the camshaft covers off is not difficult, even if you are not particularly mechanically minded, as long as you have the right tools.

One thing you'll definitely need is a 1/4" drive set with a knuckle adapter for the lower rear camshaft bolts.

To oldmots: I'll look that stuff up.