I was washing my perfect 2000 XK8 yesterday and found something that really upset me. There is a crack in the windshield about four inches long starting from the bottom edge of the windshield for no other reason except that it just wanted to crack. There is no damage such as from a rock hitting it or anything like that. It really showed up with the water from washing.

Has anyone else had a windshield crack just because it wanted to, or was installed poorly initially, or because the windshield had poor edge treatment? That really P.......sed me off.

Any advice on getting it replaced. This is going to cost a bundle

 

As I stated in the other thread you asked this question in, these windshields have been know to crack from jacking up just one front wheel. The recommendation is to always lift both front wheels simultaneously....

 

Is it a Coupe or a Convertible?

The OE or a replacement?

Graham

 

Over here in Oz most car insrance policies include windscreen repair and replacement without any excess payment and doesn't effect no-claims bonus. It seems to be a standard feature in most policies here - might be worth checking with your insurer.

 

I had my heated screen replaced last year. Cost over $3000 incl. labour, but my insurance covered it and I only had to pay the $150 excess.

 

It is a convertible.

 

FWIW, a couple of thoughts ...

- See if you can find out who does the replacements for the local Jag dealer. Seems these have to be buffered just right when put in or they can crack. That could be what happened to you, if what you had was not the original.

- You'll end up probably choosing between the original Triplex glass and PPG (or similar). To me, the PPG just does not look right (different patterns around the perimeter of the glass) but it is cheaper.

- Do you have rain-$en$ing? Big price difference, and you can elect to go without it as as way to economize.

Good luck.

 

So does this mean that the factory jack supplied with the vehicle should not be used? I've seen threads on this before and am confused .Have the cracked windshields only occurred on vehicles with compromised structural integrity - e.g.corrosion?? After all, the jacking points are reinforced precisely for their intended purpose.Just curious.

 

I would use the factory-supplied scissors jack only in an emergency, such as a flat tire away from home. They work, but they are neither the most efficient nor the safest way to lift a vehicle. When I'm working on our vehicles at home, I always use my floor jack and jack stands, or I drive the vehicle up onto my set of Rhino Ramps. Depends upon which vehicle I'm working on and what services I need to perform....

 

I agree and do the same myself but the point that interests me is why the jacking points are not, apparently, considered OK for raising the front wheel without, it would appear, a risk of cracking the windshield. I have always used my trolley/floor jack on the jacking point - is the key point not to attempt to raise both wheels off the ground? Given that the convertible body shell will always flex more than the coupe is that a factor?

 

I would agree that the standard jack should only be used for the purpose it is there - an emergency.

Although the convertible does not have the same chassis stiffness as the coupe, I would still doubt that a jack would crack a windshield, since windshields allow some movement as well.

Years back I have heard there were cases where windshields would pop out if you jack up one wheel only, but not cracking.

I still believe that you had a sudden impact of some object that didn't leave any visible signs. I had exactly the same experience with my Jetta last year, but using a good magnifying glass I could find the spot where something hit the windshield about half an inch from the edge. I still don't know what it was, or even when it was.

Just my 2c...

 

I would have to agree with JCS, the windshield sets on top of a urethane bead. If jacking the vehicle there will be some give. There was a TBS pertaining to windshields cracking(I could not find it in the above stickys). I remember reading it and it told the service tech. how to determine if it was a rock chip or a faulty windshield. It had a complete set of photos showing the difference. The glued in Windshields are engineered to be part of the structural integrity of of the car.

 

If you are looking for an oe replacement, I have the windshield from a 2002 xkr 100 that I am parting out, I have no idea how to ship it, but i was looking for $250 for it, I am in Orlando.

 

The windshield in my XK8 cracked in the lower right corner due to a surprisingy small amount of rust that put pressure on the glass. There is a very thin urethane buffer because of the shallow channel at the A-pillar. An experienced window guy will see this and know to be precise and careful. An inexperienced one will not know or sense this and seat the windshield too deep.

Mention to the installer that the outer trim and clips should be affixed to the windshield before setting it. Many glass guys will not know this, it's sort of unusual. The 12 or so plastic clips that hold the trim seat in the urathene buffer. If you try and pound the trim on too soon after installation the buffer is squeezed out of shape; try too late and the hardened-in clips won't line up properly and the trim sits unevenly. Installation is not hard but there's no room for error; it's not your typical truck windshield these guys see day after day. The trim and windshield must go on as a unit.

The clips don't come as part of the windsheld package, they have to be requested separately. Your installer may not know this. They are expensive - I paid $6 each for them. That was the installers price through the local Jag dealer. Dealer retail is more like $9 or $10. If you can clean up and reuse the old ones do it.

 

Has anyone actually witnessed this 'crack on jack' phenomenon?
Sounds like an urban myth to me.
Surely the flexural forces on the chassis on hard cornering or an uneven road are greater.
The shock absorbers will be in play then.

 

Very cold weather may also play a role in any "crack on jack" circumstance....

I don't believe it's an urban myth. If you jack the car up to the full capability of most floor jacks, you are putting far more stress on the front end than any typical road conditions or cornering actions ever would....

 

I think your correct..were talking Jaguar here not Austin alegro..the windows did pop out on them and you could not shut the rear gate if it was jacked

 

I don't know enough about the dynamics to say for certain.
However the engine torque (400 ft lbs x 4 in first gear) has to be absorbed by the chassis.

The only published figures for torsional rigidity for Jaguars I can find are
Jaguar X-Type Sedan 22,000 Nm/deg (16,000 ft lbs)
compared with
Dodge Viper Coupe 7,600 Nm/deg
Ferrari 360 Spider 8,500 Nm/deg
Ford Mustang Convertible (2003) 4,800 Nm/deg
Ford Mustang Convertible (2005) 9,500 Nm/deg

so these are very stiff cars.
The whole car weighs ~4000 lbs and the wheelbase is 8 feet so lifting the whole car off the ground by one wheel will deflect the chassis 1°.

 

Look in the TSB section for “JAGA501-001”

 

Here's a link

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...43828540,d.aWM