XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:50 PM
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Default XK8 Convertible

I had a fluid leak from the header rail when attempting to open the roof. I presume I need a new hydraulic hose but, despite unlatching the roof with the allen key I cannot get the roof to move at all. I don't want to force it but I need to check which hose is broken as I don't have a Jaguar dealer in my country and I have to order the part from abroad.

The other problem I have is that the rear windows are open and won't close. I saw a solution on a site which spoke of jumping the relays in the boot of the car but I didn't save the site and I can't find it again.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:52 PM
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You probably need to replace both hoses that go to the header. Though only one is probably blown, it is only a matter of time before the next one also goes.

I see that Gus is also currently viewing this thead. Go to his site where he has some info for getting some very nice metallic braided lines at a very reasonable price. I believe that he also has some info on how to replace them. But if he does not, the Forum has quite a bit on replacing them. The shipping from the supplier in my case was very quick and they were top quality. Took about 6 hours to replace. Then while you are at it, you might want to check out the 'pressure reduction' modification at the hydraulic pump for the roof. Here you have two options, your preference.

Don't forget to get some hydraulic fluid also. The Forum also has which product to get. NAPA has the specific Hyd Oil at about $35.00/quart (it is probably a litre though).
 
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:02 PM
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Sorry to hear of the hyd fluid leak and in most cases it is the hose connection at the latch that fails. The roof has a locking mechanism/sequence that takes place when the roof is closed that can be released by opening the petcock on the pump and applying downward pressure on both rams and the roof will open. To close the roof just pull it up and manually latch the header latch with the allen wrench. However, the windows will not go up until the rams are fully extended and that means you need to push the linkage to a locking position. Once that is done the windows will close electrically but only when the roof is locked. I do caution you not to bend any part of the linkage. I have a lot of information on my page if you wish to read about it at JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 05:25 AM
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Dear Bill

Thanks for your help. I have had a good look at how to replace the lines and I don't anticipate it being too much of a problem other than time. Perhaps you could give me the details of your supplier. I normally get my parts from the U.K. but they are generally twice the price of parts sourced in the U.S.. Fortunately, I bought a litre of fluid some time ago. Getting fluids shipped to Antigua is a real pain.

Regards

John
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 05:35 AM
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Dear Gus

Thanks. I have seen pictures of how to press down on the rams. I will give that a try. I had tried to open the roof with the petcock both open and closed but it wouldn't move in either case and when I re-latched the roof with the allen key the rear windows still would close. I suspect that by starting the opening sequence the rams are not now fully extended and the lack of fluid is preventing them from extending. I will ensure they are fully extended manually after I have succeeded in opening the roof.

I saw a very good video on how to fit a bypass switch for the rear windows. The link is attached herewith. Adding a Switch to Control the Rear Windows on a Jaguar XK8 - YouTube

Regards

John
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:19 AM
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Just go to 'Gus's' Site , JagRepair.com and look under 'Body, Engine...", Jaguar XK8...1997-2006', 'Roof Hydraulic Hose Replacement' and other relative Items. He has great 'how to do's', good pics. There you will have all that you need to complete the repair.

Just a couple of word's of caution though:
1) Just snip the cable tie connectors but not at the base, the existing connector has a slot in it for installing a new tie through it.
2) Run the hoses as much to their final location as you can with no slack. On my 1st go around I was about an inch short in making the connection at the pump. Had to loosen everything up and get the slack out.
3) I used Permatex High-Temp Thread Sealer at the Header connections. I was just a little afraid of the excessive heat at the teflon thread seal tape.

And a passing note to 'Gus'. It has been a while since I visted your site and I must say, that I am impressed. What a wealth of information, pictures, sources and to do's. Gus - You deserve great thanks and a pat on the back for your site.
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by John Duffy
Dear Gus

I saw a very good video on how to fit a bypass switch for the rear windows. The link is attached herewith. Adding a Switch to Control the Rear Windows on a Jaguar XK8 - YouTube

Regards

John

That method in the video is fine if you just need to control the windows for an emergency like you have, but in daily use if you forget to roll down the rear windows when you raise the top back up the seals will get damaged. This method addresses that: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...6/?#post333423
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:33 AM
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Dear Bill/Gus

I am now totally stuck. I have removed the rear seat but I can still see no more of the roof frame than I could before as the roof lining obstructs everything. I have tried pressing down/pulling up on what I can see but it make no difference, the roof still will not move at all. I can't remove the head lining without removing the whole of the speaker assembly which I am reluctant to do unless it's really necessary. Am I missing something?

Regards

John
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:10 AM
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Dear Bill/Gus

i have now reached the hydraulic rams and despite putting ropes around the bracket and pulling as hard as I can with the petcock both open and closed the rear windows will still not operate.

As mentioned in my first e-mail, I did see something about jumping the relays in the boot but I can't find it again. Does anyone have any information on how this can be done?

Bill - you said to go to Gus's website for your supplier and I did but I couldn't identify which supplier you used. may I please have the name and contact details?

Regards

John
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:11 AM
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You will also have to remove the passengers side right rear Seat/Speaker Trim Panel to get access to the Rams. Though never having to 'manually' operate the roof, I do not know that it has to be removed to manually operate the roof. However, it must be removed to remove and replace the hydraulic lines.

See JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource for a wealth of info on this subject.
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:24 AM
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Use this link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource and go down to the illustration of the ram to open it. You need to do the opposite and get it to lock. The ram on the right has 2 switches one for open and the other to close, if the switch is not satisfied the windows will not close. You do not need to remove the seat. What you need to do is go between the roof and the headliner and you will see the linkage and where the ram attaches to the linkage. You will need to push up on the linkage without bending it and you can do this by using a 2x4 about 3 ft long and use the back of the seat as a fulcrum and you apply a downward motion and the ram will move up. The roof is operated with a high pressure hyd system and it will only take a little movement for it to move.
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:30 AM
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Here is the info and link to Gus's Web Site on the steel braided replacement lines.

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Here is the Supplier, also noted on Gus's Site.


To purchase just notify: Chic at Colliflower inc, ctrent@colliflower.com first! He can be reached at 410.686.1200. Please try the e-mail first.
I recently installed a set and it does fit at the latch. You remove the old fittings and install the hose directly to the new fittings on the latch. At the pump you will need to remove both the old fittings and install the new fittings and install the orifice and install the hose.
I am not involved in this transaction nor am I getting a penny from the sale of this product! The cost of this hose is $378.00 NEW PRICE $297.03 plus Tax for a set of 2 hoses (the one that failed and the other one) and you will have to get new connectors and orifice.
If you elect to purchase this hose you will assume all responsibility. I cannot and will not be held responsible for leaks or damage that may be associated with this hose.
Here is the link for the manual operation of the roof:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:31 AM
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This is the link to the aftermarket hose if you elect to use it JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
 
  #14  
Old 02-13-2012, 09:04 AM
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Gus,

Any guesses as to what percentage of XK8 convertibles eventually suffer the "green shower of death"? Does it happen sooner or more frequently to the cars living in the more brutal summer temperatures (above 90 degrees for weeks at a time)?
 

Last edited by Jon89; 02-13-2012 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon89
Gus,

Any guesses as to what percentage of XK8 convertibles eventually suffer the "green shower of death"? Does it happen sooner or more frequently to the cars living in the more brutal summer temperatures (above 90 degrees for weeks at a time?
I'm not sure I'm going to like the answer to that question.
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:39 AM
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Perhaps not, Norri, but we need to know....

The more knowledge we have about this issue, the better prepared we will be if we eventually have to deal with it. I've had one local Jaguar tech tell me that he sees more failures during the hot summer months. I've had another not-so-local Jaguar tech tell me that he sees more failures during the change of seasons (warm to cool, or cool to warm). Perhaps this is only because owners are lowering and raising their tops more frequently during these times....
 

Last edited by Jon89; 02-13-2012 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:16 AM
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When I had issues with the soliniod on the pump I found a 5 amp fuse in the fuse planel in the boot that controled the miro switch/latch . When I replaced the fuse the quarter windows and the latch worked allowing me to open and close the windows and top. (there are also 2 20 amp fuses that controled left and right quarter windows, being 20 amp these are for the motors). Hope it helps Jim Good luck
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon89
I've had one local Jaguar tech tell me that he sees more failures during the hot summer months. I've had another not-so-local Jaguar tech tell me that he sees more failures during the change of seasons (warm to cool, or cool to warm).
My car has been in Mexico for the past five years in the heat... No failures yet. I do plan to change the hydraulic lines soon to be on the safe side.
 

Last edited by Norri; 02-13-2012 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon89
Gus,

Any guesses as to what percentage of XK8 convertibles eventually suffer the "green shower of death"? Does it happen sooner or more frequently to the cars living in the more brutal summer temperatures (above 90 degrees for weeks at a time)?
I know you asked Gus' opinion, not mine, but I can't resist putting in my two cents worth.

First let me start with this statement.

There are two kinds of XK8 convertibles; those who have suffered the green shower and those who will suffer the green shower.

To be more direct, IMHO all XK8 convertibles will suffer the green shower unless, the top is NEVER cycled because the lines are drained or the car is destroyed early in its life.

I was fortunate to experience the green shower during the test drive at the used car dealer. The dealer fixed it as a condition of the sale.
 
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  #20  
Old 02-13-2012, 12:09 PM
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Default XK8 Convertible

Thanks to everyone for adding their thoughts. To Jon89, this is my fifth Jaguar convertible and the first to have a green shower. I will admit all the others I bought new and none was as old as this one.

To Gus, I never solved the hydraulic ram problem and will leave that until I have the new hoses. In the end I jumped the relays and closed the windows that way. I attach a diagram I obtained on the internet although my car is different and I have modified the diagram accordingly. Anyone else having the same problem, the solution is quite simple. Remove the up relay. The relay terminal pins have numbers on them. Place a wire in the socket (where you have taken the relay out) corresponding to pin 3. Touch the other end of the wire to the positive terminal of the battery and the window will rise. It's worth having someone with you to tell you when the window is fully closed, particularly the left one which is a bit difficult to see with your head in the boot.
 
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