It's not the first shaft an OEM has deemed 'non-rebuildable'. The easiest, though probably not the least expensive, is to take the assembly to a driveshaft rebuilder and let them determine, by measuring and cross-referencing, what joint will fit as a replacement. I've seen a number of shafts like this use joints cataloged as a Nissan/Datsun part.

 

I was a big fan of Max in the late 80's, was sorry to see the show cancled. He always m-m-made perfect sense to m-m-me.

 

No, It was just a little European shop that's not great, but probably the best available. And the shop is not overly concerned about insurance issues and allows owners in the shop area. So he showed me the play in the U joint. Then called me the next day and advised he had exhausted his possibilites and couldn't find a replacement without spending a lot of $ - specifically the dealer.

 

Thanks Gus. That's good info to have, even if it notes "included with axle shaft assy". Just wish I could find somewhere that sold it for the noted price of $167.90.

And the stalling issue has been gone for a good while. It's actually been running pretty well. Still have the issue with intermittent rough idle & poor performance, but that hasn't been happening very often. It appears that last run of cleaning and reseating all the connectors did some good.

And I suspect that the idle and performance issues won't be settled until I pop for a new ECM, which I intend to do, if I can ever get it to where I'm not spending $ on fixing something that's required RIGHT NOW so I can continue driving it.

Time will tell about that plan.

 

I've asked around, and it appears there is no such drive shaft or driveline shop here on Maui. A couple in Honolulu, but that's an air freight and at least a week, maybe two depending on their backlog.

But the other thing I've considered is to just take the existing to the main NAPA store with a micrometer and seeing if it can be matched up. My best guess is the same year Lincoln Mark. I had one of those the same year as the Jag, and there's many similarity between the two cars, and I suspect a lot of the same systems. That was the first car Ford put the 4.6 modular engine into to my knowledge. And I believe the same block went into the Jag, but with Jag heads. The dash, steering, instruments all appear to be very similar. So....might get lucky and find the U joints are just Ford parts.

Worth a try. Have no better ideas at this point.

 

Just to make sure we're on the same page Gus, it's not the axle shaft U joints. It's the U joint at the rear of the main drive shaft that connects to the input on the rear-end.

I'm having both of the drivers side axle shaft U joints replaced. No problem getting them and fairly reasonable. But for unknown reasons, no one wants to sell you just the drive shaft U joint, just the very expensive drive shaft assy.

 

I had to look Jurid coupler up on the web. What I found was exactly what is on the front, or transmission end of the drive shaft, a round flexible coupler that bolts up between the transmission tail piece and the drive shaft.

But the rear of the drive shaft that bolts up to the differential sure appears to be a U joint. If it's not a U joint, its doing one of the best imittations I've ever seen.

 

I recall reading about safety features when the XK8 was introduced.

The prop shaft (main drive shaft) has a collapsible front section. In the event of heavy impact, the tube is designed to crumple thereby avoiding shearing and possible penetration through the floorpan. This can be the only justification for making it a non-serviceable item.

The UJ's have to be a standard size. Having a unique component makes no sense from manufacturing costs alone. It's likely to be a GKN manufactured component provided the shafts are sourced by Jaguar from a UK supplier.

Doesn't help solve your problem but the explanation might be of interest.

Graham

 

FYi The central universal joint next to the rubber driveshaft mount measures 75mm cap to cap. The cap diameter is 27mm. This is a standard Hardy Spicer size and common joint available from most reputable automotive parts suppliers. Cheers
John

 

John,

Thanks for that information, just need a clarification before moving forward with this. You stated "next to the rubber driveshaft mount" which is on the transmission end of the driveshaft.

The U-joint I need to replace is at the rear of the drive shaft in between the driveshaft and the pinion shaft on the differential.

Are we talking about the same U-joint? If yes....three cheers and I'll dance at your wedding.

Thanks for your help.
Oldfart

 

OK , There is only one universal type joint on the driveshaft.I have just found an old one in my large mountain of rubbish which conforms to the measurements.Its from a Triumph Stag for which I'm known as an expert.
Looking up my parts book which has hundreds of hand written notes these are the following part number for this joint.
Original UK Hardy Spicer K5-L4R
British Leyland GUJ116
Another joint from Japan UJ344
I'm currently dismantling a 1998 Jaguar XJR as spares for my 1999 XKR Convertible.
The driveshaft is currently at my feet.
Bit late for the dancing but I'm a fan of Bourbon.
Cheers John

 

It might sound odd but tractor repair shops have a huge range of UJ's - every implement has at least two on the PTO shaft and you can be sure they can take some torque.

 

Based upon the prior post of the dimensions of the U-joint and your post I was able to get a replacement from the local auto parts store. Not naming names (as I think that may be against forum policy) suffice it to say it's a national auto parts chain and the part number for the drive shaft U-joint is P344 and an exact match. And this one has a lube nipple on it so maybe it will last longer.

That being said.....it appears nothing will ever be easy in my efforts to get this car right. More about that in my next posting.

Thanks for all your help.

Oldfart

 

The howling noises coming from somewhere in the drive train of my 1998 XK8 are making me crazy and appear to be beyond the capability of the local talent to pinpoint and repair.

One "european" shop emphatically stated that it was the drive shaft U joint. But after much digging and help from forum members determining a replacement U joint (in lieu of replacing the entire drive shaft that includes a new U joint which is what the dealer wants to sell you)....you guessed it....the howling is still present.

I've now had the car to 3 different shops:

1. First shop said drive shaft front Julian rubber donut and U joint - replaced both, still howling.
2. Second shop said need differential service (and you have to drop part of the suspension to even check the fluid level) Service performed - no change whatsoever - still howing.
3. Third shop said they couldn't pinpoint it. Might be tires, might be inner axle shaft U-joints, might be transmission, might be rear wheel bearings, might be rear-end. (In other words, just keep throwing money at it until it goes away.)

Leaving me with having spent considerable sums of money already and no closer to a solution than when I began this quest.

To further describe the problem: The howling noise is speed dependant but not dependant on which gear the transmission is in. It is accompanied by a mild vibration that can just barely be felt at low speeds but is more prominent at higher speed, becoming a very noticable vibration at 60-70 mph. The howling oscillates slightly at all speeds.

The only thing in my past experience that was similar was the pinon bearing going out in the rear-end of a Mustang I once owned. But the sound and vibration here is substantially different, so I'm not at all convinced this is the problem.

Any ideas or suggestions. Anyone ever have this same problem?

Thanks,
Oldfart

 

Can you record the noise and post it?

 

Your noise sounds pretty much like what I'm experiencing right now. At first, I thought it was the wheel bearings (hence the video title), then I was told it was the diff output shaft bearings, but after having the car up on a lift in drive at my local mechanic, listening around the rear end, I couldn't really hear much at all. He also suspected something around the diff, but was honest enough to say that I should rather take the car to a dealer, because it would be both faster and cheaper with their experience.

My noise is also dependent on speed. Steering hard into corners, accelerating or decelerating does not affect the noise at all. It is most annoying at low speeds around 30-50kmh.

My noise for reference:
[youtube]IcGtv3jmnIM[/youtube]

 

Hay Daddy there is a u joint on the driver shaft. It is part of the drive shaft. It bolts up to the trans. Hard to get because it's part of a balanced assy

 

Old fart: I have a 1999 XK8 with the same problem. I mean the exact same problem! I am just starting my shearch. Are you shure your drive shaft is balanced? My old 65 MGB felt the same and it was the drive shaft.

 

The joint between the the tans and drivive shaft is a rubber gromet and it is not designed to flex much! All my u joints were fine. In my car the tansmision mount was bad. If the alinment of the transmision to differntial is off you get alot of vibrition and noise.