Originally Posted by andyps

I have to replace all my bushes soon so that part number would be great John, I may as well get them to fit at the same time.

Originally Posted by WhiteXKR

Here is a $10 fix for the strut mounts: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...0-bucks-77884/

Originally Posted by 99ragtop

Thank you so much for this link! I appreciate your efforts immensely. Warmly, Andy

Originally Posted by 99ragtop

Hi. Do you think poor shock mounts would contribute to negative camber issues? Thanks in advance, Andy

Originally Posted by GordoCatCar

The eccentric bolt offset is probably not more than 1/16", meaning that is the distance the lower control arm can pull in the bottom of the wheel in an attempt to correct negative camber. I don't think it amounts to even a half degree of correction. I installed them on mine, and IMO it is not worth the time and trouble to install. Gordo

Originally Posted by WhiteXKR

Yes

Originally Posted by Brutal

the bigger issue is bad upper shock mount that deteriorate and drop the ride height and drops camber more negative.
But if your camber is less that -1.5 and not closer to -2, I dont care what anyone says, it will NOT prematurely wear the insides, but not setting toe correctly damn sure will and fast. If you dont check suspension deflection when setting toe like Mercedes has wanted for decades youll screw yourself. You drive on roads that take all the tolerances out of the suspension as you drive, ball joints, bushings, wheel bearing etc. You dont drive on an alignment machine! I preach this on forums till Im blue in the face. You can set front toe all day and Ive over the years, pressed on front tires and watch a "in the green" toed in front and go toed out into the red which will quickly wear out the insides of the front tires. When you simulate by pressing out on the insides of the front tires to simulate what the road will do to the suspension as you drive.

AND PS just cause its green doesnt meen it wont wear either. I always always toe in past the middle and my customers cars (if they dont hit crap) dont wearout unevenly. Also you may or may not be aware that on a XK most of tires youll put on are NOT gonna give you 30-40k, most will be 20-25k. as long as theyre wearing evenly. The cars are ment to stick in corners not drive on a set of tires for 40k. Look at the treadwear ratings when buying tires if your more concerned about longevity

Originally Posted by OregonJag

Let me add to Brutal's comments that 13 year old springs will also cause the front to sag and the camber to go out. I replaced my spring pads and thought it made a big difference. Then I replaced my 15 year old springs and it made a lot more difference.

Check your ride height per this chart and see where your car is. To measure it, park it on a flat even surface like the concrete of a weight station or large parking lot. Before I changed my pads and springs I was down over an inch on the driver side. Pads made about 3/8 -1/2" difference. The springs made the rest and they were not evenly sagged on left and right.

Originally Posted by Brutal

And I would have set the front toe to .16 instead of .12 Ive just experianced still innner tire wear at .12, but you really need to push out when aligning to see where the tire/toe settings move to and adjust static setting accordingly

Originally Posted by Brutal

I just push out with my arms evenly at the same time to do this. Its gives you an idea of where EACH cars toe will go when driving. As an example if Ide have set a front toe setting static to .16 they will useally move to .6-.12. SOOOO if youre at .10-.12 static, youre likely gonna be toe'd out when driving. And then there are the cars that have to be "toe'd into the read" cause when checking deflection they move out ALOT

Originally Posted by H20boy

IIRC, I think Brutal (one of our jag techs) said the eccentric bolt gained you up to 0.5 degrees of camber. Nothing dramatic, but it is still something.

When I replaced my shocks separately from the upper mounts, I also found that I gained another 1/2" of nose height, and more positive camber as a result.

Also, pulled over here for reference are some other useful posts I've read:

Originally Posted by 99ragtop

Thank you for your definitive answer. I'm so involved in this camber/tires issue, your one-word answer was perfect. So shock mounts and differential shims are on the docket. Warmly, Andy

Originally Posted by 99ragtop

Does it make sense to replace rear upper s/s mounts prior to shimming the differential? My rear camber is negative 3+ as well.