Hi, this is Martin in CA.
Have an issue with the steering column in my 2001 XK8.
The reach control does not work and the steering wheel is up against the dash.
Have read the member data and instructions to perform a reach motor repair, but the complexity and skill set needed to perform as correct is honestly beyond
my capability at 78, not to mention maneuvering. And to think that I once removed and rebuilt e-type motor and transmissions in the 70's. Thus goes glory.
Hoping to find a work around that does not involve dropping the steering column plus removing the steering wheel, air bags and ignition switch.
I can get as far as removing the panels, cowlings and able to see the reach motor with a lamp.
My thought is to remove the reach motor and work the wheel to the fully reach position by working the spiral gear. Has anyone done this? My goal is to lock the column
in the fully reach position and keep it that way, not using the reach motor in the future. I'm sure this sounds like blasphemy to purists or agile technician, but I'm just
aiming for a more comfortable driving experience. Can anyone help and old Jag owner get by?
Martin

Martin, don't sell yourself short, no one said you had to finish in a day or a week. Find a comfortable position and work till you think it's time to give it up for a day or two.
It took me 3 days to change out the front and rear shocks and springs plus the sway bar, but at 85 I'm no speed demon but using power tools takes a bunch of twisting and turning out of the job.
Give it a go and if not successful put it back or get one of the independent guys to finish.
Follow Kelly Stevenson's instructions, he might come in on the thread shortly.

Martin. I have a list of tools and tips that allow a slow pace. I got younger nephew to assist. . Just took some time to follow the steps
Steering Wheel Removal for REACH Motor access

Begin by collecting the tools: 10 mm & 13mm Combo Wrench for battery and Bulkhead , 8 mm socket, T- 30 torx bit & 1/4" ratchet and short extension (air bag), (4) T-25 screws holding the Switch Pack, **Pozi Drive PZ2 Screwdriver with Min. 4" Shaft L. (Not Phillips!) for Cowling Screws., and 15mm (Older Cars 17mm) socket with ratchet and possibly a pull handle to break the Steering Wheel bolt loose. Mirror and Light to help with visual accuracy. . Perhaps some pics on your camera phone will help in reassembly. Drive Cable or Rod 5mm X 95mm or (3/16" rod .075 Square ends) + Champfers .JLM12987

We began by setting column switch from AUTO to MANUAL and with the Str. Wheel straight ahead, then turned it (Vertical) 90 degrees with engine running to turn wheel for access to the 1st Air Bag mounting Screw (T30) and shut engine off. After the screw was loose (it does not fall out, captive screw), we started the engine again and turned wheel 180 degrees to access the remaining screw. Once loose, we returned the Str. Wheel to straight ahead for a reference point. Air Bag remained attached to Wheel at this time. NOTE Air Bag screws are Captive in the wheel. Shut engine off and go to boot and disconnected the battery. After 1 minute wait, per JTIS Instructions, the Air Bag was lifted from the wheel to reveal 2 connectors (1 Black & 1 Yellow). They have Male end fitting vertically into the Air Bag. The BLACK one is removed first to gain access to release the YELLOW one. There are 2 Tangs or Square Tabs on opposite sides & ends from wires of each connector that have to be pressed inward at same time to remove the Male ends. They lift up and off once the 2 tangs are correctly pressed in. The Air Bag can be lifted from the wheel at this time and laid aside. Next step is removal of the Str. Wheel. Loosen the 15mm bolt Head (it has loctite on it). The bolt has a large washer between it and the wheel so marking the washer is useless. Do not remove the wheel (screws stay in the wheel) at this step, just remove the bolt and washer to reveal the steering shaft. Take a Sharpie or pointed tool and mark relationship of the shaft and wheel so you can replace it in same exact position. Now replace the bolt and washer until snug, then loosen a few turns to prevent the wheel from coming off completely. Rock the wheel from side to side and up and down while pulling rearward, it will come loose, but not hit you in face due to the bolt holding it. Place the Str. Wheel aside.
Next step is removing the lower cowl (2 Pozi Screws). Once loose, squeeze in on left side split and it should drop down revealing the Tilt and Illumination Switches. Disconnect these 2 switches and press in on the right side of lower cowl split to release it from upper cowl. Tabs will Disconnect when both sides squeezed inward. With the lower knee bolster and instrument trim removed, you can see the 2 Allen screws with nuts on inside (13mm) holding Str. Wheel Column. Remove nuts behind bulkhead and pry the 2 Allen bolts fwd. Column will drop and the Motor is accessible to remove once disconnected. Install is reverse of removal
RESET-- Clock, Accelerator,Radio, & Windows & Steering Limits

Thanks Kelly, I think I could do that with such great instructions. Do need to go find a couple of those tools. LOL I know I don't have a PZ2 in my arsenal but bet I will shortly.
Hoping not to have the issue. Thanks

The balance of the install direction are belowRE INSTALL CABLE AND REACH MOTOR ON COLUMN 2003 XK8 step 2



We began reinstall by setting the Pot to lowest reading using the connected motor W/O cable to determine that lowest reading of .69 ohms. ( NOTE, due to air bag out, battery reconnected for 12V.) Since column fully retracted, we was able to turn the white cappped thread screw (located directly below Speedo) 1 turn C.C.W. to move off of Mechanical Stop. Photo included Reinstalled assembly by moving cable & motor as described earlier along column and bumping motor to align splines. Once they aligned and motor snapped into place, connected the harness and used the 2 wires ties to secure the wiring.



With the Control switch still in manual mode we bumped it each way to verify correct install. With this complete, Reattach the column to the bulkhead with 2 Allen bolts and 13mm nuts. Install the switches prior to mounting the covers with screws to the column. Reattach the Cowl Covers, BOTH Top then the Bottom. Next is the Lower Bolster, then ready for the Steering Wheel. REMEMBER (DISCONNECT THE BATTERY) since it was reattached for tests. Do another Hard Reset to discharge the existing caps and then go to next step. ALMOST COMPLETE.

Reattach the steering Wheel and align to previous marks. Place a drop of Loctite on bolt threads and place the washer onto bolt, then tighten the bolt to (SECURE)*

Next is Air Bag. Plug yellow connector into Bag, then the black one. Black one fits perpendicular to the Yellow one. Since the 2 T30 screws are captive in wheel and the air bag is threaded, align onto the Steering Wheel to begin final assembly. The 2 Torx screws will align but you now need to reattach the battery to start the casr and move the wheel to either the 9:00 or 3:00 position for access to the 2 Bag screws. Tighten them SNUG, but do overtighten (6 to 9 inch lbs) OK.



Finally you are finished and a successful job is complete. Have COLD ONE!



*SECURE 25 Ft. Lbs or 30NM

RESET-- Clock, Acelerator,Radio, & Windows & Steering Limits

*THANKS to Ken Chalfant for his earlier thread regarding R&R.