XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

XK8 Top will not go down

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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 03:46 PM
  #1  
bowmanec's Avatar
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From: Gainesville, Va
Default XK8 Top will not go down

My 1999 xk8 top will not go down. The hydrolic fluid level was a little low and there is a very slight leak in front of the right rear wheel but nothing gushing nor dripping a lot. I topped off the hydrolic fluid but when the top activation button is depressed the pump runs for about 5 to 10 seconds then stops. The rear windows go down but nothing else.

Any ideas what it could be? Does the system need to be bled? I hate taking it to the Jag shop because I'm sure they will want to charge me an arm and a leg.
Cheers,
Craig
 
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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 05:16 PM
  #2  
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Craig,

I've moved your post from General Tech to the XK8/XKR section as it's a model-specific issue.

There's a lot of experience and knowledge of top issues here and you should get useful advice.

Graham
 
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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 05:35 PM
  #3  
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Make sure the pet **** on the side of the pump hasn't come loose.
(Righty tighty)
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 03:27 AM
  #4  
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Norri's solution is often the problem.
The system is self bleeding, indeed it is a bleeding system and should have been manufactured by Lucas Prince of Darkness.
You've got a leaking lift ram which can be rebuilt but shouldn't be the problem.
If Norri's fix doesn't work then try releasing the top latch with the Allen key clipped to the pump.
You will need to unscrew the petcock to release the catch.
If you find it very stiff then lubricate the latch mechanism (see the HOW-TO section)
If you manually unlatch the top try closing the petcock and see if the top will now lower.
Don't try to lower it manually.
If freeing up the latch mechanism doesn't work then Welcome to the Soft Top World of Pain.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 09:34 PM
  #5  
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From: Ormond Beach FL
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I had a mirco switch go bad in the header latch and this prevented the system from following its preordained sequence. The pump was pumping, and the lift cylinder was under so much pressure [because it couldn't move] that fluid was forced out the piston rod seal, into the body cavity and down out through a little vent hole just before the rear wheel.

Look down under there... yes you have to get on your knees and bend way down to see the vent. But if there is fluid in and around that vent, I bet the same thing has happened to you. You may not have the same micro switch problem, but that something is wrong in the event sequence and the cylinders are stalled under pressure. All your symptoms are just like mine however. I had the same 10 second of pumping and then the pump motor would stop.

Try this. Depress the top button. Wait for the rear quarter windows to drop, then PUSH UP on the header bar with your other hand. Keep pushing up under pressure for about ten seconds. You need to push up with some force, maybe twenty pounds. You will feel when the latch releases, and then just give it a push up about 6-8" out of the latch.

If you have the same mircro switch problem, then pushing up the top header forces the top to move into the next sequence, and it completes the top lowering as normal. It will close without incident.
 

Last edited by GordoCatCar; Oct 9, 2012 at 09:42 PM.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 09:59 PM
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You may have a leak in the rams but that is not why your roof is not operating properly. The leak has resulted in low fluid and that will stop the roof from operating properly. Fill the tank to the top line and check that the petcock is closed (clockwise). Now attempt to open the roof by pressing the button and holding it in the open position when the latch opens and if the roof does not move keep pressing the and after a few moments if it does not open take your other hand and push the roof open gently. If this does not work you may have confused your system by pressing the roof open and closed too many times and this system is a bit temperamental.
 
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