When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The transmission on these cars has the habit of learning your driving style. If you haven't had the car long enough, it may still be adapted to the previous owner's putting around. Do a battery reset and you will notice the transmission will behave differently. It will adapt to your driving style.
However, if you want something more dramatic and money is no object, an LSD with lower gearing will certainly help with acceleration and drifting if you like going sideways.
interesting, remember reading that the transmission adaptations were persistent and would survive a module depower. with a new transmission module it is advised to keep the unit in normal mode for a while for it to configure to the transmission. perhaps the battery reset helps in other ways.
Last edited by CorStevens; 06-20-2018 at 06:16 AM.
Reason: typo
As soon as I get my car back from registration (canīt wait) Iīm going to do these things:
a) Hook up BlueDriver, read the codes and also take some live scans. This should also give me some indication on airflow and if both fuel pumps are working correctly, right?
b) Execute the fuel pump test procedure by removing the fuses/boxes and observe the behavior of the car
c) Check and remove slack in the accelerator cable
d) Clean MAF
e) Use Injection Cleaner Additive to clean the system - pretty sure that was never done in 16 years
f) Reset ECU and thus previous driving style by disconnecting battery (however I need to double-check if I got the radio code available)
As soon as I have some more insights I will post.
Thanks again,
Berglmir
Last edited by Berglmir; 06-20-2018 at 06:54 AM.
Reason: Additional point included
You all probably know this already, but I think the "My Garage" function on Amazon quite handy.
If you include your car, it shows you parts that fit the vehicle and also warns you if it does not fit.
Not sure how accurate or complete this is, but right now I like it.
Last edited by Berglmir; 06-20-2018 at 06:32 AM.
Reason: Picture upload
You all probably know this already, but I think the "My Garage" function on Amazon quite handy.
If you include your car, it shows you parts that fit the vehicle and also warns you if it does not fit.
Not sure how accurate or complete this is, but right now I like it.
e) Use Injection Cleaner Additive to clean the system - pretty sure that was never done in 16 years
Your car, your call, but I would change the filter first before adding the cleaner. Is the cleaner going to somehow bring/dissolve dirty stuff from the (cheap) filter into the (expensive) fuel rail/injectors and cause more problems? That would be my fear. Filters are cheap, and not that hard to replace.
Your car, your call, but I would change the filter first before adding the cleaner. Is the cleaner going to somehow bring/dissolve dirty stuff from the (cheap) filter into the (expensive) fuel rail/injectors and cause more problems? That would be my fear. Filters are cheap, and not that hard to replace.
Good call.
I need to check if and when the last fuel filter change was done and go from there.
This video however makes my eye water:
You all probably know this already, but I think the "My Garage" function on Amazon quite handy.
If you include your car, it shows you parts that fit the vehicle and also warns you if it does not fit.
Not sure how accurate or complete this is, but right now I like it.
That is about double the price of the (identical) Mazda version.
Changing the fuel filter is easy - no eye watering involved. Then add a can of BG44K - on mine it made a noticeable improvement to the engine running.
Other things to change while you are at it, is the engine coolant/thermostat if you don't know when it was last done and change the brake fluid.
I assume you are changing the engine oil and filter also?
I really have to check the map with all the bills in it, that shows me what the previous owner has invested and when.
A proper service will do the car good for sure, but I donīt want to do things twice...i.e paying twice.
In the end I think it will come down to expectation management. Every car has a specific character and although I have fallen in love it takes some time and experience to really understand and cherish what Iīve got.
I put that to the test and included the Mazda (hope it was the right one, though).
Results: Same price range, but more choice.
I was the one who confirmed the Mazda MAFS a few years ago. I actually got the best price on the sensor by walking straight to the Mazda parts department and buying it from them. It cost me something like $60 USD if I remember correctly. Just ask for the sensor from an '06 Mazda 3.
I agree with some of the comments on gearbox, I found my XK8 didn't feel that quick unless I used the kick down, so now I use the manual gears when I want to drive fast and find the car far more responsive. I guess Jaguars are often balancing luxury vs. performance. There are faster cars with far less horsepower, but for me these cars are about arriving in style.
Just to note that the XKR uses a different MAF then the XK8 where all the above is referring to.
Important information, thanks!
I will try to clean the existing one first and write down the parts number and go from there.
To everyone else: Iīm super grateful for all your input and I would love to update you on any progress or changes, however my car is still in the process of
a) being registered in Austria and
b) the Jag dealer I have my car at right now said, that the EGR valve needs replacing (causing the CEL) and they would do it as a guarantee job, because the previous owner has exchanged the EGR valve only in December 17.
Although thatīs nice to hear (no additional $$$), Iīm a little bit hesitant to believe a new valve has gone bad so soon.
I forwarded them the info from baguafit a month ago - maybe thatīs more to the point and hopefully they will check this too.
Originally Posted by baguafit
Just sharing this with the community to help other avoid my costly goose chase. Bought my 2000 XKR coupe a year ago and started getting P0400 -- "EGR flow malfunction" code after I drove it off the lot. Took it to Jaguar and they said the EGR valve needed to be replaced. Had it replaced as advised for $700 and the P0400 reappeared about 100 miles later. Did some of my own searching and found I was not the first to do this with the same result. The culprit is the Supercharger bypass accuator had a vacuum leak. Had that replaced and P0400 is gone!
Speaking of performance, when using the Sport mode, does the car start off in a lower gear ? It sure feels like it in my '02 XKR.
Z
When you aren't in sport it'll generally start in 2nd gear. This was obvious when my sport mode button was broken and it came off the line like a wounded Water Buffalo.
I'm going to clean my MAF this weekend. Thanks for the tips.
At one time a couple years ago, I felt I wanted more power, I looked at a 2012 XKR with 510hp but with one just finished college and 2 to go I decided to stay with my paid '03. I enjoy the power of the '03 XKR but the 2012 XKR was in a different class. I think the '03 has enjoyable power for most situations plus it's beautiful.
06-20-2018, 06:15 AM
