XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006
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XKR Purchase Advice

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Old 01-07-2013, 12:58 PM
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Default XKR Purchase Advice

Hi, I'm sure this is posted over and over but I'd like some advice on what to look out for when purchasing.
I'm looking for an XKR convertible, from 2000 onwards, preferably 2002 (my exact spec is posted in the For Sale section under Wanted).

What sort of things should I be wary of - specifically with the XKR. I can do all the usual checks for mechanicals, electrics, roof etc

Limp home mode?
Specific rust areas?

Would appreciate the advice, thank you
 
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:38 PM
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I'm in the same boat and am looking to buy one this summer and from everything I've read the 2003+ cars are a better buy. The 4.2 is a better overall motor. It's not to say the 2002 and below are all bad cars, but it seems to be generally advised to go 2003 and up. I know for a fact this rings true for the S-Type in a very big way.
 

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Old 01-07-2013, 01:56 PM
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Lots of threads on this- doing a search will serve you well. The convertible hydraulic line and engine cam tensioners are the major items, but there are others to look for as well.

I just bought a 2000 XKR over Christmas and it's fabulous. With the right maintenance, they're all fine cars, you just need the pick what's in your budget. Newer is generally better, and if my budget would have allowed, I'd be in 2006 myself. But it didn't this time, however, I still got nearly the same car at half the price. From what I know so far in my recent due diligence, these are great cars that can be very reliable and not cost a lot to run if you find a good one that's been cared for. Good luck.
 
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:09 PM
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I have a 2002 XKR convertible that has had all of the pitfalls that are talked about throughout the posts, chains and tensioners replaced, transmission electronics, solenoids, and harness replaced, "green" shower with hose and actuator replacement, supercharger rebuild, front end bushings replaced...However, that's not to say that 2003-2006 don't have their own issues. First of all, I don't like the exterior rocker panels and the grilles of the later models as much as those of the 2001-2002. Secondly, I don't like the 6 speed automatic of the 2003+ models. Finally, there are incredible bargains out there on the earlier cars. Three years ago I bought my 2002 XKR in nearly perfect condition (a small poorly, touched up scratch on rear quarter, road rash on all four wheels, otherwise it was in showroom condition) with 60K miles on it and a complete service history from the local Jaguar dealer of every service ever done on the car from new for $15,000. I have probably spent another $8-10k to do all the repairs over the past 3 years including a repaint of the quarter panel, refinishing of all 4 wheels to make the car perfect, and I have enjoyed it for almost another 60,000 miles since. It runs and looks as close to new as possible. If you find a later car at a price you can afford with reasonable mileage and a fairly comprehensive service history, of course, buy the newer model. But don't be afraid of earlier cars so long as you know what you're looking at. If you're handy and can do some of the work yourself, even better.
 
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:34 PM
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Sound advice so far. Follow the links below from the DYY/Facts links in the stickies:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-advice-24282/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...001-xk8-10043/

Make sure it's a sound car, get maintenance history and have it checked out by someone reputable. After that, go with what makes your pulse quicken. That is why you want a Jag vs. a Volvo in the first place.
 
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:07 AM
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Nice one thanks guys, I'll continue to do my research.

Must admit ideally I am looking for a late 2002, 4.2l supercharged XKR model
 
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:39 AM
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Chris,

Plenty of good advice and useful links so far.

Once you've compiled your checklist, add Service and Maintenance Records in big red letters at the top. A comprehensive record with no unexplained gaps is more important than mileage.

If the seller will let you put a ScanTool on any prospective purchase, this can tell you a lot. A single P1111 code with nothing else pending or stored is an excellent sign. Conversely, a P1000 with codes cleared that day should raise some questions.

In your enthusiasm to check engine, transmission and bodywork, remember the one question that brings large numbers of new owners to the forum - how to replace missing keys or remote fobs. There should be two black headed master keys, one green headed valet key and two remotes. Although remotes can be sourced from eBay and programmed by an owner, keys must be programmed by the Dealer at £100 and more.

Graham
 
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